Proper sequence to glue it all up?

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airbur

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Jul 4, 2017
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Colorado
After 15 runs to HD, I'm finally ready to glue this all together. What is the best sequence to glue? How do you maintain the correct angles when disassembling? Is it best to start in the middle and move out to each unit? Should I use a sharpie to mark the exact locations and angles before I get going? (I will be installing 1 more union for those concerned;) Thanks.

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I hate to say it, but you have another trip in your future. I would STRONGLY recommend you install couplers in every main line. I would really like to see them in every straight run you have. But for sure all the pump and filter related runs.
 
definitely use witness marks (sharpie). Assemble pieces in advance that can be so you are not chasing drying glue. Make sure to give each piece a 1/4 turn when gluing. Bear in mind that some of the pieces might seat further once the glue is applied.
 
pabeader said:
I hate to say it, but you have another trip in your future. I would STRONGLY recommend you install couplers in every main line. I would really like to see them in every straight run you have. But for sure all the pump and filter related runs.
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So is this to decrease the lengths of the longer runs (increase strength)? Basically cut them in half and install couplers?

I thought it was better to decrease the number of connections.

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PoolGate said:
definitely use witness marks (sharpie). Assemble pieces in advance that can be so you are not chasing drying glue. Make sure to give each piece a 1/4 turn when gluing. Bear in mind that some of the pieces might seat further once the glue is applied.
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Perfect, thanks!
 
airbur said:
No doubt, but I'd like to understand why. How does glueing both sides of a coupler into a run of pipe help me down the road? I still have to cut it off etc. right? I could understand if you were suggesting more unions.
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I think he means unions. You should use unions wherever possible. Especially where the pipes come out of the ground. And put the male end (without the thing you turn) on the ground side in case the union screw part cracks so it can be replaced.
 

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Also, if you want that heater bypass to work correctly, you need a check valve on the heater output line. Otherwise, when that ball valve is opened up you'll get water into the heat AND into the return line. Water will take the path of least resistance but you will still get some flow through the heater. I would also suggest that you NOT use those PVC ball valves as they are not serviceable in any way (unless you plan to put unions on them) and the check valve as well should NOT be the cheap PVC type. Get proper Jandy NeverLube shutoff as well as Jandy check valves so that you can service them in place when needed.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Also, if you want that heater bypass to work correctly, you need a check valve on the heater output line. Otherwise, when that ball valve is opened up you'll get water into the heat AND into the return line. Water will take the path of least resistance but you will still get some flow through the heater. I would also suggest that you NOT use those PVC ball valves as they are not serviceable in any way (unless you plan to put unions on them) and the check valve as well should NOT be the cheap PVC type. Get proper Jandy NeverLube shutoff as well as Jandy check valves so that you can service them in place when needed.
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Thanks for the info. I had thought about that but figured a little flow through the heater wouldn't be horrible. So a check valve on the heater output line with negate water flowing through it?
 
airbur said:
Thanks for the info. I had thought about that but figured a little flow through the heater wouldn't be horrible. So a check valve on the heater output line with negate water flowing through it?
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Up to you, of course. The check valve ensures no backfkow into the return side of the heater. If you ever needed to truly bypass the heater, say because if an ascorbic acid treatment or to remove the heater for service, then you'd want to ensure that no flow can go through it.
 
Zrock said:
are those sched 40 fittings one of them looks like a fitting for a sink drain? If it were me i would be eliminating some of those elbows and try keeping the runs as strait as possible
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Now that's just not funny. I asked the "guy" at home depot what the difference was between the 2 fittings and he said "different brands"! I saw DWV on the PVC so thought it was fine. Wrong. Guess I will be taking all the fittings back to exchange.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Up to you, of course. The check valve ensures no backfkow into the return side of the heater. If you ever needed to truly bypass the heater, say because if an ascorbic acid treatment or to remove the heater for service, then you'd want to ensure that no flow can go through it.
Click to expand...

Total shutoff would need a ball or gate valve, not a check valve.
 

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