When you clean the filter cartridges, look for a turquoise color, which is an indication of copper.
Problem with fading endpoint
- Thread starter Obecalp86
- Start date
Exactly same result.
50%pool+50%distilled+5 drops R-0012, then usual test: 10 drops x 10 x2 = 200 PPM CH.
Starts out blue, 5 mins later turns purple, see pics.
Can I trust the 200 CH? Why did you want me to redo it at 25ml and with fading endpoint test when I seemed to have avoided it with 10ml and 50% distilled water? Just trying to learn. Appreciate your input!
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Ok, thank you. Did not know. Was just trying to use what I have.
Edit: why is sulphate bad?
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I just replaced the 5 year old cartridges after pebble tec install 4-5 weeks ago. They were green/slimy, but I assume this was from algae (which we had for a year prior to pool demo, thanks to the pool company using trichlor tablets weekly for my saline pool, which apparently never had salt added). Leslie’s measured copper x5 as 0.1ppm since the pebble and refill.
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I think that it is probably accurate.
It depends on exactly what is interfering with the test.
Just wanted to double check if it got the same results.
Would you raise it to 250 or just leave as is? I live in Phoenix where the water is very hard as it is, so expect it to rise with evaporation and water fills.
My CSI today is 0.0.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,166
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Don't waste your time with pool store results - they will only confuse the issue and are rarely accurate.
The test is complete once the blue color is visible. Letting the sample sit for 1 minute or 5 minutes and seeing a color change has zero bearing on the test result - disregard this change.
No need to increase your CH of 200. It will rise soon enough on its own do to evaporation here in the desert southwest. Just keep your CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range.
Share your PoolMath logs to the forum using the same sign-in in PoolMath as you use in the forum.
Use muriatic acid (liquid) instread of dry acid.
The below copied from a post by @ajw22 from a few years back
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The test is complete once the blue color is visible. Letting the sample sit for 1 minute or 5 minutes and seeing a color change has zero bearing on the test result - disregard this change.
No need to increase your CH of 200. It will rise soon enough on its own do to evaporation here in the desert southwest. Just keep your CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range.
Share your PoolMath logs to the forum using the same sign-in in PoolMath as you use in the forum.
Use muriatic acid (liquid) instread of dry acid.
The below copied from a post by @ajw22 from a few years back
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Problems sulfates can cause include:
- Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
- Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
- Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
- Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
- At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
- While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.
Pentair specifically says on page 9 in the IntelliChlor SWG Manual - CAUTION: The use of dry acid (sodium bisulfate) to adjust pool pH is discouraged especially in arid regions where pool water is subject to excessive evaporation and is not commonly diluted with fresh water. Dry acid can cause a buildup of by-products that can damage your chlorinator cell.
_______________Thanks y’all. This forum and the people on it are great!
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,584
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V25
You’ve seen proavia’s post #28, that’s it basically. Sulfates or sulphates are the nasty one always implicated with acid mine drainage disaster's. The upper limit is often given as 300ppm and you would have gotten anywhere near that in four weeks. Just switch to muriatic, also known as hydrochloric, HCl or pool acid, and you’ll be good. HCl leaves nothing behind that isn’t already in the pool.