Preparing to add Borates - Am I ready given these test results?

[dconyers]

Hello TFP Community -

First, phenomenal site! I have lurked for a very long time and received immense value from your site - thank you!

The TLDR for next paragraph is that I'm using pucks from InTheSwim and a basic chlorinator. Feel free to skip or read as it's not necessarily pertinent to the discussion, but I've read enough on this site to know that this topic might arise as part of my thread.

<Tri-Chlor Puck Justification>
I don't want to hijack my own thread, but I do want to provide some background. My 6-year old pool (14,000 gallons) was recently refilled after a pool company made some changes to our negative edge (fixed leak plus reversed edge to greatly decrease spill-out). I have new, fresh water and have committed to doing an even better job of caring for my pool. I have re-read all your recommendations and especially those regarding chlorination. Unfortunately, I feel I'm not a good candidate for either of your two recommendations. Liquid chlorine is a poor choice for me as I travel often and the idea of dosing daily or even 3x per week is unrealistic. I've looked at the self-dosing pumps and can't get excited about it due to general lack of support in the community. The second options is a SWG and I got very excited about this option. I live in San Antonio, TX and my pool has flagstone inside the pool (used for the ledges on the waterfall) as well as tons all around the pool. While I have reviewed just about every thread on this site and hear that it likely won't require damage, I've also contacted many pool companies in town (PoolZoom, Pool House, Pool Mart, Leslie's) and also contacted a couple of pool building companies. They all vehemently recommend against it and say (though not personally confirmed by me) that they can show dozen's of pools that have been damaged in the past 5 years that resulted in lots of $$$ spent to replace flagstone. In short, I don't know who to believe, but I'm not willing to take the risk. By the way, if anyone is looking for an intellichlor system, Amazon Warehouse Deals has a full setup for about $600 right now...
</Tri-Chlor Puck Justification>

I purchased Boric Acid granulues from "Bulk Apothecary" and they arrived last night. I ran tests from the recommend TF-100 kit and these are my results:
FC = 1
CC = 0
PH = 7.8
TA = 180 (ran test twice to confirm)
CH = 120
CYA = 30
TEMP = 80F
Water Color= Perfect, although I acknowledge I'm on the very low side and had a smidgen of algae appear last weekend when I dropped down to 0.5...

I acknowledge that my TA is higher than recommended. I read your posts on adding Borates and also your recommendations on Lowering Total Alkalinity. The post on lowering TA seems to state that I shouldn't focus on TA unless PH is off (which it isn't). The Borate guide seems to indicate that I might need to worry about TA, but I'm not 100% certain if that's for the Boric Acid method or just the Borax method?

I also acknowledge that my CYA is currently low, but given the fact I'm using Tri-Chlor tabs, that will soon be a non-issue and the inverse will inevitably become and issue that will cause me to continue to ponder the risk/reward of SWCG...

Any insight/recommendations would be greatly appreciated! I'm not in a hurry and if I need to lower the TA via Acid and Aeration, I'm happy to do that before adding the Boric Acid.

Thanks in advance and once again, I really appreciate all that you do for the community!

Thanks, doug.

 

[duraleigh]

I am neutral about the benefits of borates......but I am strong on the benefits of chlorine and yours is too low.

What does your water look like? Your FC should be up around 3-5 ppm to provide proper sanitation.

 

[dconyers]

Sir - Thank you for your prompt reply. I thought I had read that it was okay/good to lower your FC to roughly 1ppm with the use of Borates, but upon double-checking, I don't see that reference and moreover, I see that the TFP Experts clearly state here that I'm completely wrong!

As usual, you guys are super-valuable!

I'll push my FC up to ~3 before I add the Borates.

Should I worry about TA as well, or just FC?

Thanks, doug.

 

[duraleigh]

The TA at 180 is a little high but it will tend downward over a period of time or you can bring it down now. Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity.

I would personally lower it to about 70-80 as owners are reporting good stability of pH when TA is lowered that much.

If you are set on adding borates, I think I would do that first.....it'll probably move the TA.

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

I am a fan of borates and have used them for years in my tub and my pool. Borates are very helpful in controlling rising pH, especially in a spa. I also like the side benefits.

In the TA article we don't recommend chasing a TA number because your TA will find equilibrium with your pool and your pH on its own over time. The reasons to lower TA are to reduce the amount of time between now and equilibrium if you want to take a trip, spend less time adding acid every few days or weekly, already know where your best TA/PH equilibrium is and want to just get there now when it is convenient to lower TA, like over a weekend when waterfalls are running and people are splashing in the pool. My TA is best between 50 and 60, high TA fill water continuously pushes my TA up to around 90 and having a solar cover on in spring slows my pH rise and reduces my acid additions which slows how much TA gets pushed down through acid additions. So, when my wife wants the waterfall on all weekend I take that opportunity to lower my TA.

In the borates article we do recommend getting your TA in line first because it is much easier to lower TA without borates than it is with borates because it is harder to raise your pH. It also helps you learn more about your pool and the TA/PH relationship for your pool.