Power Bill for running Pool Pump 24x7? Pump too big?

UnderWaterVanya said:
While we are on the subject of changes - where do I find the filter sizing chart? I have seen one here somewhere.

I have a filter that is considered undersized (S210T) but I can't recall how much undersized it is. I have no plans to change it as it is working well for me. However I did pick up a cheap Waterway Pro-Clean 175 square foot cartridge filter (unused) for $20 on Craigslist as a spare filter in case anything should go wrong with this system. There is no cartridge included (about $85 online). I think I read this too is undersized by TFP recommendations but is it as close as what I have? For $20 I felt hard pressed to not pick it up.

The table is in the middle of the second post here:
hydraulics-101-have-you-lost-your-head-t915.html

I think the "general" recommendation is double the size in the table for cartridge and DE, but the same as the table for sand. Although every pool is different and some of the sizing depends on the pump as well (for backwashing Sand etc). But, I think the bigger the better as far as cartridges are concerned.

For your pool size, from the table: ~200sqft cartridge, ~35sqft DE, ~2.5sqft sand.
 
I am certainly no expert either, but my engineering mind likes to think through these plumbing setups ;)

Well, maybe a check valve is not required after the booster pump. My thought was if the booster was off (and the valve closed), the water could flow backward into the pump outlet, but since the valve is closed, the water should not actually be able to go backward through the pump.

If the booster is on and the valve turned 180, then the high pressure out of the booster will be hitting the Jandy valve and going to the cleaner. So maybe a check valve should be right after the Jandy so that it stops the high pressure out of the booster from hitting the Jandy ... although maybe the Jandy is fine by itself.

Just a note when making the drawings, it is usually clearer to orient the Jandy correctly ... for example, always have the source water going into the "middle" of the block and the leaving out of both ends (like you did on the suction valve and the top valve in the A pad). This gives a little clearer picture how the plumbing would be laid out too.
 
jblizzle said:
I am certainly no expert either, but my engineering mind likes to think through these plumbing setups ;)

Well, maybe a check valve is not required after the booster pump. My thought was if the booster was off (and the valve closed), the water could flow backward into the pump outlet, but since the valve is closed, the water should not actually be able to go backward through the pump.

That was how I saw it also.

jblizzle said:
If the booster is on and the valve turned 180, then the high pressure out of the booster will be hitting the Jandy valve and going to the cleaner. So maybe a check valve should be right after the Jandy so that it stops the high pressure out of the booster from hitting the Jandy ... although maybe the Jandy is fine by itself.

When you mentioned a check valve and I thought it through I saw this also as a potential issue - My thought is that it could recirculate the same water if there is no check valve there - but I don't really understand the "jandy" type valve that well.

jblizzle said:
Just a note when making the drawings, it is usually clearer to orient the Jandy correctly ... for example, always have the source water going into the "middle" of the block and the leaving out of both ends (like you did on the suction valve and the top valve in the A pad). This gives a little clearer picture how the plumbing would be laid out too.

Here you lost me a little. The suction side source is the pair of pipes going into the sides and then flowing into the pump. However I think I grok what you are saying - the only reason the middle valve is set that way is that I didn't have room to put the booster on the drawing where it really is (between the main pump and filter) without complicating the diagram.

These are the first diagrams of pool plumbing I have done - and honestly I have not seen others post any so I didn't have anything to go on other than my own drawings of networks and IT systems. If there are conventions I can learn from point me there please.
 
I think your drawings were pretty good for the first time ;)

I just wanted to point out that ideally you want the center port on the valve to be the "common" pipe {either the single inlet or single exit} ... maybe that terminology makes more sense.

Also is best to put every valve on the drawing so the setup is clear (like adding the ball valve on the slide) and then we can make sure you will have all the control you want over the flow.
 
jblizzle said:
I think your drawings were pretty good for the first time ;)

I just wanted to point out that ideally you want the center port on the valve to be the "common" pipe {either the single inlet or single exit} ... maybe that terminology makes more sense.

Also is best to put every valve on the drawing so the setup is clear (like adding the ball valve on the slide) and then we can make sure you will have all the control you want over the flow.

Thanks! The ball valve is at the pool and I was concentrating on the pad side of things - but I get your point. I've left out the detail that the stairs return splits into two returns at the stairs.
 
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