Possible bad salt cell??

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I think that the cell is working correctly and generating the correct amount of chlorine.

If the salinity on the box is accurate, the cell is working correctly.

I think that the salinity as reported by the box is correct.

I think that the fc issue is due to something in the water that needs to be SLAMMED out.
 
To confirm, for yourself that the SWG is working take a sample directly from the pool return or loosen the coupling at the cell itself for a sample coming right out of the cell. You should show plenty of chlorine if it’s working.
 
chiefwej said:
To confirm, for yourself that the SWG is working take a sample directly from the pool return or loosen the coupling at the cell itself for a sample coming right out of the cell. You should show plenty of chlorine if it’s working.
Click to expand...

I will certainly try that. I'd tried it with the old cell, and measured essentially zero chlorine, despite good data from the diagnostic panel.
 
George in Georgia said:
I will certainly try that. I'd tried it with the old cell, and measured essentially zero chlorine, despite good data from the diagnostic panel.
Click to expand...

Just now I loosened the union downstream from the cell as it operated and collected a water sample. No discernable chlorine. Here are data from the diagnostic panel:

Salt level display 3000
88F
25.2 v
6.34 a
100%
2900 inst salinity

Change polarity

88F
25.1 v
6.49 a
100%
3100 inst salinity

These readings are, I believe, all within acceptable parameters. The flow switch is new. With a new cell and these readings, why is the SWG not producing chlorine?
 
Based on the power usage, it's definitely working.

It's like if you have a 5,000 watt, 240 volt heater element that you can't directly see and you want to know if it's working. You test and get 240 volts and 20.83 amps.

So, it's using the correct volts and amps. The power has to be going somewhere and doing something. 5,000 watts is being used, which matches the element rated power. That means that it's working and heating.

The volts and amps you are getting match what they should be. So, the conclusion is that it's working.

For it not to be working, you would have to have a bad amp meter reading or the power is going somewhere else.

Amp meters do fail, but it's rare and unlikely that the amps would look exactly right. Also, when not generating, the volts are above 30 and when generating, the volts drop due to loading. The more loading, the more drop. The voltage drop is correct for the amps, which confirm actual current. If no current was being used, the voltage would not drop, it would stay over 30 volts.

For the power to be going somewhere else is pretty much impossible without being obvious, especially when the power is right in the expected range.

You could check for amp draw at the input side if you're doubting the power usage.

In my opinion, it's definitely working correctly and making chlorine.

Are you getting tiny hydrogen bubbles from the returns when the cell is generating?

How much fc was lost overnight?

Are you getting any CCs?

Have you used any metal treatment chemicals, like ascorbic acid?

Note that the fc increase won't be super high in any case. The increase depends on the flow rate. At 60 gpm, the increase is 2 ppm. At 30 gpm, the increase is 4 ppm etc.
 
JamesW said:
Based on the power usage, it's definitely working.

It's like if you have a 5,000 watt, 240 volt heater element that you can't directly see and you want to know if it's working. You test and get 240 volts and 20.83 amps.

So, it's using the correct volts and amps. The power has to be going somewhere and doing something. 5,000 watts is being used, which matches the element rated power. That means that it's working and heating.

The volts and amps you are getting match what they should be. So, the conclusion is that it's working.

For it not to be working, you would have to have a bad amp meter reading or the power is going somewhere else.

Amp meters do fail, but it's rare and unlikely that the amps would look exactly right. Also, when not generating, the volts are above 30 and when generating, the volts drop due to loading. The more loading, the more drop. The voltage drop is correct for the amps, which confirm actual current. If no current was being used, the voltage would not drop, it would stay over 30 volts.

For the power to be going somewhere else is pretty much impossible without being obvious, especially when the power is right in the expected range.

You could check for amp draw at the input side if you're doubting the power usage.

In my opinion, it's definitely working correctly and making chlorine.

Are you getting tiny hydrogen bubbles from the returns when the cell is generating?

How much fc was lost overnight?

Are you getting any CCs?

Have you used any metal treatment chemicals, like ascorbic acid?
Click to expand...

I've never used any algae treatments with copper salts; they would plate out on the cell plates and ruin them. No ascorbic acid. As far as hydrogen bubbles from the returns the water is too green to tell!

If it is working and making chlorine, why didn't any show in the water taken from the downstream side of the operating cell? I would have expected the concentration to be "off the charts," if any Cl were being generated.

Perusing the Diagnostic Manual for the Aqua-Rite I didn't find anything which seemed applicable. Their tests - I do have a DVOM, but no ammeter - deal with various trouble indications displayed by the unit, and the unit says all is well.
 
If the water is green, that's the problem.

The fc is getting used up by algae. You need to SLAM.

A SWG is for maintenance of fc, not a SLAM.

FC increase depends on flow rate. At 60 gpm, you only get a 2 ppm increase.

In my opinion, the SWG is working correctly and generating the correct amount of chlorine.
 
An SWG will never clear a green pool. For that you will need a slam, and that will require lots of liquid chlorine. Once the pool is clear, clean and water in perfect balance, the SWG can take over and maintain chlorine levels.
 

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Many thanks to all for the help! The pool is improving with the aid of lots of bleach. JamesW, I apologize for omitting the datum of green water! Somehow I had thought that would have been self-evident. It would be nice if the Cl test in the Taylor DPD kit had a more easily discernible endpoint, as does the Taylor total alkalinity test.
 
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