Well, with the help of this group I diagnosed and replaced the thermistor on my AquaRite. All was well, salt level at 3200. Now....the salt level is rapidly dropping, according to the display. It showed 2900 yesterday, 2100 this morning, and 2000 just now. There used to be telephone help from Hayward, no more. Before I diagnosed the board problem I'd taken the cell to my local Leslie's, the cell tested out okay. This was after the acid wash. My thought is to "inspect" the cell and acid wash again, then return to Leslie's. Sounds like I need a new cell??
Possible bad salt cell??
- Thread starter George in Georgia
- Start date
Meadow
0
Fortunately for you, the internet is flooded with all the information you may need with regards to your SWCG unless you're calling in for warranty!
First off, I would recommend for you to get your own reliable salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766 and test your current salinity level to confirm.
Indeed, there's an abundant wealth of knowledge waiting for you here > https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
First off, I would recommend for you to get your own reliable salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766 and test your current salinity level to confirm.
Indeed, there's an abundant wealth of knowledge waiting for you here > https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
Okay, the cell tested OK at Leslie's. I bought it in May of 2015, so it should still be good. The generator ran fine all day yesterday, indicated salt level 2800. This morning the salt level indicated 2600, check salt and inspect cell both flashing, generator running. I'd received my Taylor salt level test kit. The salt tested to 5000. Wow! This test is a simple titration, with a possible error of 200 ppm, according to the directions, which say 1 drop of silver nitrate regeant = 200 ppm. I did two years of a chem major in college, so I've done lots of titrations.
pH is about 7.6 CyA is about 50.
When I opened the pool the control box indicated about 2600 ppm, so per the pool calculator I added about 120 lbs of salt, to make up for losses in backwashing, etc. And then the troubles described in my first email commenced. Pool Cl level is perhaps 1 ppm. I was able to loosen the union for the cell and measure a dribble while the generator was running, that measured about 3 ppm. The nearby Leslie's has an electronic salt measure device, I'll take a water sample in tomorrow morning when they aren't busy and see what they measure. I imagine that agreement within 10 or 15 percent would be acceptable. If salt level is truly that high I'll have to drain 25 - 30 percent of pool water.
Perhaps I need a new control board. Any thoughts out there?
pH is about 7.6 CyA is about 50.
When I opened the pool the control box indicated about 2600 ppm, so per the pool calculator I added about 120 lbs of salt, to make up for losses in backwashing, etc. And then the troubles described in my first email commenced. Pool Cl level is perhaps 1 ppm. I was able to loosen the union for the cell and measure a dribble while the generator was running, that measured about 3 ppm. The nearby Leslie's has an electronic salt measure device, I'll take a water sample in tomorrow morning when they aren't busy and see what they measure. I imagine that agreement within 10 or 15 percent would be acceptable. If salt level is truly that high I'll have to drain 25 - 30 percent of pool water.
Perhaps I need a new control board. Any thoughts out there?
MannyT
0
If your flow switch is bad it could be miscalculating your average salt and causing it to drop. What does it show for your instant salinity? You could also let your pump run 24hrs and see what your reading is.
Flow switch is new. Instant salinity varies between 1900 and 2000. I'll do the 24 hour thing and see what happens.
After running all night at 100% Cl is essentially zero. Salt on the controller indicates 2900 ppm. I took a water sample by Leslie's and their electronic salt meter indicated 2800 ppm. Yesterday the Taylor salt test indicated about 5000 ppm. CYA is still low, about 30 ppm.
Values on the diagnostic panel on the controller are all within parameters, in both polarities. It would seem that the cell and controller are working, but where is the Cl? As I mentioned above a sample taken directly from the cell - by loosening the union and catching the dribble - showed only 4 or 5 ppm.
So...we're going to brush the walls, etc, and add 5 121 oz of 8% bleach, put more CYA in stockings and see what happens.....
I find it interesting that your Taylor kit registered so high. Mine is also registering very high, in stark contrast to what my board is telling me. My cell was having a hard time keeping up so I replaced it - the new T15 is showing the same salt level as the old one (but i'm getting good chlorine out of it).
When I noticed I was having trouble making chlorine I did the Taylor salt test and my eyes got real wide when I came in at 4300 ppm of salt. So of course I figured my cell was going kaput. The new cell is showing the same readings though.
Interesting! Perhaps despite the readings off the controller my cell is problematic. I've ordered a new cell...its only money, and a pool is much cheaper than a boat!
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,765
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
My first reaction is to be sure that the control box is set for the correct size cell. When salt readings are that far off that’s commonly the problem.
Before you throw away the old SWG away, see what James W. says. He may post here soon.
(I'd trust the Taylor test before Leslies)
Well, I tested the water this morning at about 7.30AM. Chlorine essentially zero after the SWG ran all night at 100%.
pH 7.6 Cya 70 Cl essentially zero Total alkalinity 80ppm
Readings off the diagnostics, second column is reversed polarity. Displayed salt level is 3000.
Temp 87 87
25.4v 24.9v
6.23a 6.34a
100% output 100% output
inst NaCl 2800 3000
Software 1.40 1.40
NO DISPLAY OF CELL TYPE! According to the Diagnostics Manual without a display of cell type there is no way to set the cell type.
The board is factory set for the T 15 cell, I've always used T 15. My new cell is T 15. Flow switch is new. As mentioned in an earlier post I replaced the bad diode and the board sprang to "life." Do I still have a cell problem? Or is the board failing/failed? Looking through the Diagnostics Manual I don't see anything covering this situation.
pH 7.6 Cya 70 Cl essentially zero Total alkalinity 80ppm
Readings off the diagnostics, second column is reversed polarity. Displayed salt level is 3000.
Temp 87 87
25.4v 24.9v
6.23a 6.34a
100% output 100% output
inst NaCl 2800 3000
Software 1.40 1.40
NO DISPLAY OF CELL TYPE! According to the Diagnostics Manual without a display of cell type there is no way to set the cell type.
The board is factory set for the T 15 cell, I've always used T 15. My new cell is T 15. Flow switch is new. As mentioned in an earlier post I replaced the bad diode and the board sprang to "life." Do I still have a cell problem? Or is the board failing/failed? Looking through the Diagnostics Manual I don't see anything covering this situation.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,765
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
You have one of the early versions of the controller. The software 1.40 will only work with T 15, no way to change cell type.
I suspect that the cell is working correctly. Your diagnostic readings are good.
What is your procedure for testing?
Does the new cell show a different instant salinity than the old cell?
What is your procedure for testing?
Does the new cell show a different instant salinity than the old cell?
I'm using the Leslie's Deluxe Poolcare DPD Test Kit, made by Taylor. I bought it in June of this year; I don't trust strips.
The old cell's instant salinity varied between 2900 3100, taken on 7/13, depending on cell polarity. New cell's instant salinity depending on polarity is 2800 or 3000, taken this morning at 7.30 am. I gather from another post that my circuit board is older, revision 1.40 and will only drive the T 15 cell, which I have. The flow switch is new; the connector broke off the prior switch. Any suggestions for getting some Cl out of this SWG would be much appreciated.
Based on the amps, it's working correctly and generating the correct amount of chlorine.
I suggest a proper SLAM to address anything growing in the water.
When was this?
I suggest a proper SLAM to address anything growing in the water.
When was this?
Thanks for your response.
As stated above, on 7/13
If it is generating the correct amount of Cl, why was the Cl essentially zero at 7.30 am this morning? I would have expected some Cl since there was no sunlight to burn it off, and the CyA is adequate.
Okay, I'm putting 6 121 oz jugs of 6% bleach at sundown tonight. I'll take a Cl measure in the morning.
You're inconsistent with what you're saying the instant salinity was with the old cell?
the old cell instant salinity was 2900 or 3100 depending on cell polarity, on 7/13. The new cell arrived on 7/15, was installed immediately and gave instant salinity of 2700 or 2800, depending on cell polarity.
"New cell's instant salinity depending on polarity is 2800 or 3000, taken this morning at 7.30 am." as recently posted.