Pop-Up Head Zone Leak - Under the Pool

Sanders486

Member
Apr 25, 2020
13
Phoenix, AZ
Hi there. I have a water leak in a pipe in one of the zones in our in pool cleaning system. It is UNDER the pool, at one of the joints where the pop-up head pipes come together. Yes, under the pool - yay... :( We had leak detection to come and find the leak. They used all their fancy equipment to pinpoint where it is. There are a few options we have been given and some conflicting information depending on who I talk to, so I am looking for some other advice. Here are our options:

1. Plug the zone that is leaking and switch to a vacuum. This is obviously the cheapest option. I am not a fan of the pop up heads anyway (they break and don't do that good of a job). Here is the main option where we have been given conflicting information. The company we hired to find the leak tried to plug the pop up heads with these plugs that would leave a wing nut sticking out over top of the pool surface. They said that the type of pop-up heads we have don't make plugs and that they can't find any other plugs the right size to fit in the holes. I told them that wasn't an option because wing nuts sticking out a) look bad and b) is a safety hazard. They also said that I need to plug the line from both ends (where the pop-up heads are in the pool and in the actuator where the gears are) and remove the gears. Apparently I do not have a normal return line to the pool, the only return line is through the pop-up heads. (Is there anyway I can verify this? - there is a return line on the equipment, but they said it is to the spa). Another pool person I talked to said that was incorrect and that I only needed to turn off the power to the gears. This to me would indicate that water isn't supposed to get through the pop-up heads when they are off and closed down. Is this true? This might be supposed to be true, but my pool was dropping water when the system was off, so obviously the water was getting through the pop-up heads.

2. Cut into the bottom of the pool and fix the leak. This would be the most "correct" way to repair the leak, but I am not a fan of cutting into the pool We have had to have the pebble-tech finish repaired in another area due to a leak and it has popped out and now it looks bad. So I am worried the same thing will happen to this if we get it fixed this way. Also, it would cost at a minimum $3k. That is just the quote the leak finding company gave us.

3. Full refinish of the pool. We are not at all interested in this option. The pool is ~18 years old (we didn't install it), and we hope to move in a year anyway so don't want to dump that much into the pool.

I have included several pictures. Also - how long can my pool sit empty in AZ? One person said it doesn't matter it is pebble tech finish, and another said I am reaching the upper limit (3 weeks now).
 

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You should have waited to drain the pool until after our high temps reached 80, but you are there already. Why not just refill it now? You already know where the leak is. Why did you drain it to begin with? With no water the leak can't be detected, or did they have to use a different method to find it like pressurizing each zone to find it? I think PoolGate is correct that you just need to abandon the IFCS since you can't plug just one part of the system. I can't blow your pics up enough to see what your pipes are doing though.
 
I drained the pool because they told me I had to drain it to find the leak, and said it would be find since it is Pebble-tec finish. They did pressurize each zone to help find the leak. I haven't refilled it yet, because they were supposed to come today to convert it to a vacuum, and that is when they showed up with the plugs that would stick up above the pool surface, so I sent them home and said that would not work. I am about to the point where I am just going to fill it until I find a solution. But if I fill it, I lose about 8" of water in the first 36hrs with the leak, so I will just have to keep putting water in it. Which is another reason I haven't filled it back up yet.

Option 1 presented is to just ditch the IFCS and replace it with a robot. We are just getting conflicting information on how to do it, if it is possible. Should I have to plug the lines to the zone that is leaking or not? Can I get plugs to replace the pop up heads? I have attached better pictures (2 zip files because pics are too large).
 

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That is a lot of water to lose that quickly. The zip files aren't attached, they are only 22 bytes each. We need to see if there is a valve between the filter and the cleaning system head that can allow water to divert around the head to other returns in the pool. Do you have other returns in the side of the pool besides your water features?
 
Thanks to @mknauss for the photo tips. All photos re-attached properly.
Yes, it is a lot of water to lose. I am assuming it is just from the pressure, because it drops off in amount the lower the water level gets (but is still obviously leaking).

As far as returns inside of the pool, there are three pipes. I was told two of them are for the water feature and one is for the skimmer. That is all we have. There is an aerator. And then we have the spa which has returns through the jets. And looking at the pictures I attached, since the salt cell and aerator are on the right side of that labeled return line, I am guessing there is no return to the pool other than the pop-up heads.

I included a picture of the type of pop-up heads we have. The pool person said we can't get a plug for that type. I also included a picture of what they wanted to plug it with and have the wingnut stick above the pool surface.
 

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That is a convoluted setup you have. First of all, the flow switch for the SWG is supposed to be led by 12" of straight pipe. The output from the filter goes underground and is probably what comes up to the left of your returns array at the right rear. You could put a valve in front of the cleaning head and then open every other return in the array before the SWG which might give you the water volume you need so that the filter doesn't get higher backpressure. Unfortunately that would mean every water feature and aerator would have to run along with the returns to the spa? Then after they are all open you can close the new valve to block off water to the cleaning system. To fix this permanently you would either need to plumb the SWG return to a couple of returns into the pool wall or, for probably about the same amount of work and money, dig up the broken pipe and fix it then fix the pool shell and finish. I don't see a cheap way around this.
 
I drained the pool because they told me I had to drain it to find the leak, and said it would be find since it is Pebble-tec finish. They did pressurize each zone to help find the leak. I haven't refilled it yet, because they were supposed to come today to convert it to a vacuum, and that is when they showed up with the plugs that would stick up above the pool surface, so I sent them home and said that would not work. I am about to the point where I am just going to fill it until I find a solution. But if I fill it, I lose about 8" of water in the first 36hrs with the leak, so I will just have to keep putting water in it. Which is another reason I haven't filled it back up yet.

Option 1 presented is to just ditch the IFCS and replace it with a robot. We are just getting conflicting information on how to do it, if it is possible. Should I have to plug the lines to the zone that is leaking or not? Can I get plugs to replace the pop up heads? I have attached better pictures (2 zip files because pics are too large).
I share your pain.
i am also looking for a pop up system leak test, may i know how much that cost you ? i keep getting quotes around $1800
 

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