Pool with compounding problems (SWG inaccuracies, black algae, stubbornly high pH/TA/CH, new mustard algae, etc)

Kisiel92

Member
Jul 2, 2022
9
Riverside, CA
Pool Size
17250
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi all,

My parents have owned a house for nearly a decade now with an outdoor pool, but it has had problems since the beginning - namely black algae, stubbornly high pH, and calcium hardness resulting from very hard water locally. I'm at the stage where I think we need to drain the pool at least partially in order to resolve all the problems with it so it's less of a headache for them, since they seldom use it to begin with, but I don't really know where to start with all of the problems it has. So I'd greatly appreciate any advice on the proper steps and order of steps to resolve all these issues so the pool chemistry is more stable than it has been for the last decade.

I just took a sample of water to Leslie's to have it tested and the results were as follows:
FC 0.36
TC 0.48
pH 8.6
TA 150
CH 450
CYA 18
Iron 0
Copper 0.6
Phosphates 310
Salt 4400 (but the instant/average readings from the cell show 2400-2600; I cleaned/descaled the cell two weeks ago -- is there a problem with the cell and/or board?) -- the cell was purchased in May 2017. Could it be at the end of its lifespan?

There is also black algae that grows on the grout between the tiles at the waterline as well as on the rocks/waterfall to the spa above. We have scraped it before with a metal brush and took a chlorine tablet and rubbed it into the black algae spots vigorously, but it still comes back. There are also new mustard algae (?) stains on the bottom of the pool as of a week or two ago, which is something we haven't dealt with for the past decade whatsoever.

I've attached a few photos to show the black algae and new stains at the bottom of the pool.

Thank you so much in advance for helping our family get our pool back to a relatively stable and safe place to bathe.
 

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Last edited:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: I'm sure we can help, but it will require changes from some old/bad habits. For example - the pool store. Stay away. Their testing is inconsistent and their products generally a waste of time and money. Test your own water with a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. That's a must.

I suspect you have several issues right now which culminate in various problems like scale, organic staining, etc. But first thing's first - the test kit. The only thing that catches my eye with the numbers above is the copper. If copper-based products were used in the past that level could be reasonably close and cause staining that is very difficult to remove.

Don't try to do too much until you get one of those kits, then post a full set of your own numbers. We'll be happy to help. Also be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics which has tons of great info.
 
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Thanks for the warm welcome and quick response. I ended up purchasing the TF-100 main kit along with the TF-100 salt kit. The T-CELL-9 that we've had for a little more than 5 years also failed the test done at the store, so also purchased a new one to be delivered later this week to replace it. Will post updated results once the kit has arrived.
 
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Looks like you're on your way to a clean TFP pool. Good decision on the test kit. While waiting for delivery, start preparing for testing by reviewing test kit instructions:


Also review these articles on algae and the SLAM Process:


For now, add about 3 quarts of 10% strength liquid chlorine daily to help stabilize things. Post up your test results when you get your kit.

Best of wishes!
 
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Hi all,

Sorry for the long delay in getting back to you all. My TF-100 test kit came in and I got around to testing the water with it. My parents drained about 1/3-1/2 of the water and refilled it in between the last set of data from Leslie's and this set of data taken with the TF-100 test kit. Additionally, the salt cell was replaced and the tested salt level matches the instant/average readings from the salt cell.

pH >8.2
Cl (OTO) 0
Cl (FAS/DPD) not measured since OTO was 0, assuming 0?
CH 300
TA 100
CYA <20 (the dot in the test kit cylinder was always visible)
Salt 3000

The water still looks good in spite of the lack of chlorine other than the stains at the bottom in the photo in my initial post. Thanks in advance for your help in what order to adjust the above chemistry
 
Welcome! The FAS/DPD is separate test from OTO & the FAS/DPD test is recommended (look out how well everyone has taught me lol).

You can use muriatic acid to lower pH & can use stabilizer/conditioner to raise CYA.

If your FC is 0 with the FAS/DPD test can supplement with liquid chlorine to raise it until your SWG can maintain it. Make sure to measure CC too with the FAS/DPD…it will let you know if algae is eating your chlorine. I believe CC of 1ppm or greater is a sign of algae.
 
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