Pool water tested at store their recommendations

mcelaine said:
I don't have any kids! Should I be canvasing the neighborhood! :-D Just my daughter (she just turned 30) and myself on a couple of floats reading a book!

Wally has been running around stirring things up. I had to chase him and make him come to the end of the pool. I'm thinking he may need a couple more lengths of hose attached to him. We let him swim all night and he doesn't like the end closest to the house. :whip:
Wiithout stuff that splashes,kids,fountains, the pH will be slower to drift upwards, but when it does, just adjust back to 7.5 or 7.2 with the dry acid you have (pH down). You can save a few $ by getting muriatic acid but it does the same thing. Calculator handles that, you see.
Do always let the pool mix before collecting a sample for testing, then take your sample from elbow deep in the pool. An hour of filtration is generally enough, tho I guess a good brushing with the Wally Whale brush is just as good.
So, you seem to have it under control. Acid to adjust pH to stay in range, knowing that TA trends to drive that up and the acid you use corrects that TA level over time. Chlorine will be kept in range with daily testing and additions as needed. And you did fix the CYA already ? (hard to read back too far from my phone )
 
anonapersona said:
mcelaine said:
I don't have any kids! Should I be canvasing the neighborhood! :-D Just my daughter (she just turned 30) and myself on a couple of floats reading a book!

Wiithout stuff that splashes,kids,fountains, the pH will be slower to drift upwards, but when it does, just adjust back to 7.5 or 7.2 with the dry acid you have (pH down). You can save a few $ by getting muriatic acid but it does the same thing. Calculator handles that, you see.
Do always let the pool mix before collecting a sample for testing, then take your sample from elbow deep in the pool. An hour of filtration is generally enough, tho I guess a good brushing with the Wally Whale brush is just as good.
So, you seem to have it under control. Acid to adjust pH to stay in range, knowing that TA trends to drive that up and the acid you use corrects that TA level over time. Chlorine will be kept in range with daily testing and additions as needed. And you did fix the CYA already ? (hard to read back too far from my phone )

I don't know about the CYA, one of the reasons I took the water to the pool store. The guys are stirring up dirt right now. But I will check that again when it calms down. So when I check the CYA, the black dot really doesn't disappear, the water just gets so cloudy that you can't see it right?

A few pics of my "redneck" above ground pool underground. I do love that pool though! :thequeen: They are going to put pavers and or white rock or river rock around the pool itself so he can change the liner if it needs it. Then concrete.








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Make sure they compact that fill dirt REAL good before putting anything on top of it! Otherwise it'll settle, things will go uneven, and you'll have problems.

Not that the incompetent fools who built our pool did anything like that, of course...
 
Beamup said:
Make sure they compact that fill dirt REAL good before putting anything on top of it! Otherwise it'll settle, things will go uneven, and you'll have problems.

Not that the incompetent fools who built our pool did anything like that, of course...

Lol! That is why they waited so long to pour concrete! They wanted it to settle. It has rained on it a couple of times. They added crush and run last week. Hubby wet the ground around the pool with a water hose to get it to settle. Everything is pretty solid and they didn't need fill dirt except for around the pool where they dug it out for the braces. (Three feet around.)

I sure hope it doesn't settle after the concrete is poured!
 
I didn't test the water. The dirt they moved around caused a lot of it to fall into the pool. It looks dirty now. I am letting the filter run all night. They will be back tomorrow stirring up the dirt again. Hubby said he would get some plastic and put over it tomorrow. I have to work tomorrow, shooting a wedding, so I doubt that I will have a chance to test it. Or should I make sure I do test it in the morning and see if it needs bleach or to be shocked? Or do I dare hope it is just dirty and will be fine? Concrete will be poured Monday.
 
I finally got our Dog to go to the shallow end, after adjusting the position of the floats, adjusting the ones closest to the cleaner to be a bit further way and the rest at about 3' spacing as needed to make the entire hose float really flat and even. Then we did some tinkering with the jet direction in the back. I can't tell you what worked, but it now travels to the shallow end like a champ.
 
Just tested the water agian.
Results
FC 4
CC 1
TC 5 ...I left the water on the counter about 5 minutes before I tested the rest and noticed it had turned pink again!! So I added two more drops to get it clear. That would make the results FC 4 CC 2 and TC 6 Which would be correct?
CL 5
PH 7.8
TA 120
CH 100
CYA 50
Salt 2980
 
If the FAS-DPD chlorine test is left sitting it will always turn pink again, ignore that.

These numbers are mostly alright, but CC above 0.5 is not good. Is there any chance that could be a testing error? You want to make sure the sample goes all the way transparent when getting the FC reading. Leaving a very faint pink can cause CC to read higher than it actually is.

Your TA is a little higher than I like to see with a SWG. I suggest you lower the PH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.8 until TA comes down to 80 or below.
 
JasonLion said:
If the FAS-DPD chlorine test is left sitting it will always turn pink again, ignore that.

These numbers are mostly alright, but CC above 0.5 is not good. Is there any chance that could be a testing error? You want to make sure the sample goes all the way transparent when getting the FC reading. Leaving a very faint pink can cause CC to read higher than it actually is.

Your TA is a little higher than I like to see with a SWG. I suggest you lower the PH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.8 until TA comes down to 80 or below.

Thank you, Jason for responding. I have some PH down I am not sure how that differs from Muriatic acid. The Pool Calculator shows different amounts for different % of baume. What does that mean? It says I should add 3qts 2cups. :scratch: Should I go by that or the amount on the bottle of PH down (Aqua Chem) that has 93% Sodium Bisulfate. It says for a PH of 7.8 to add 9oz for 15,000 gallons of water. Should I go by that and then test again to decide whether I need more. :lovetfp:
 

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