Pool Pump won't start

May 10, 2012
66
North DFW, TX
Hey, hope you all are having a happy new year!

Bit of a dilemma. The week before Christmas, I woke to hear a humming noise outside of my bedroom window. That is where my pool pad is. Ran out and discovered it was coming from the pool pump. Between the holidays, work, and two outpatient medical procedures, I killed the power at the breaker to the pool pad and decided to deal with it, well, today. The weather has been mild to unusually warm but not warm enough to still be swimming and the pool was properly chlorinated, so I figured it would be fine to wait. First thing I checked the day before yesterday was the run capacitor on the back of the Pentair WhisperFlo pump. Pulled it off and had no measurement with the multimeter. Voila. Having replaced capacitors on a previous pump plus on my HVAC system, knew that was the first thing to check. Got the specifics and ordered a replacement off of Amazon. Got it last night and went out this AM to replace it. Tested the new capacitor and it was good--always do that after chasing a ghost on the HVAC system a few years back when it turned out the new capacitor was actually bad. New capacitor good, hooked it up, replaced the cover, flipped the breaker back on...and nothing! Not even the previous hum.

Ruled out the other things I knew to--impeller spins like it should, both from inside the basket and the post on the back of the motor. Tested that I had voltage coming to the motor from the timer box, so I know not a bad breaker or a loose connection.

So, any ideas? The pump and motor are 11 years old, so maybe the capacitor went bad and by the time I realized the motor was humming and not starting, the damage was done? Who knows how long it was in that state when I woke to the humming sound. Do these motors (original 3/4 hp uprated 1.25 SF/1 hp THP AO Smith) have an internal start capacitor? Is there a reset switch that throws when the motor overheats, like on a garbage disposal? I cannot find anything that indicates there is a start capacitor or reset in the instructions for the pump or motor. So does anyone have any thoughts if there is anything else I should be testing?

And any suggestions if the motor is indeed bad? A new exact swap motor is ~$190 plus $25 for the gasket/seal kit. A new WhisperFlo similar replacement is ~$750 (if I can find one in stock) but I can get a SuperFlo for ~$600 (both would be 3/4 hp uprated/1 hp full rated) or I can get a two-speed 1 hp Doheny's private label for around $350. Not a lot of reviews on their products here but the few I found seemed positive. The two-speed would save some energy during the summer months when I could crank it down and run it longer. The specs on the Doheny's match the specs on the current pump but with the ability to run it at a slower speed. And I am not opposed to considering a Hayward or other brand if it makes sense and saves money. If it matters, my plumbing is 2" so I definitely want a pump, if I get a new one, with 2" fittings and not have to rig up (and buy) 1.5-2" transition fittings. I guess I am leaning towards a new motor as the wet end of the pump is still in great shape and would save me from cutting any pipe. The links for my options on replacement are below:


Of course, it has dropped from a balmy 70 degrees at 10 am this morning to 33 degrees now at 4 pm, headed for a low of 21 overnight. After losing my filter and booster pump in last February's Texas Freeze and a week without power, I want to act fast and not ruin something else. It will only be below freezing for tonight before heading back into the 40s tomorrow afternoon and the 60s by mid-week, so this little snap is not a problem. But if the motor is shot, I want to get it ordered in the next few days and replaced by next weekend because we will get more prolonged freezing weather at some point. And while the pool is clear and chlorinated now, I don't want to let algae get a hold and cause more work.

As always, thanks in advance for any advice.
 
I will let others give you some ideas on the problem motor.

Any single speed or two speed motors are from inventory - as the DOE regulations that went into effect last year ended the manufacture of those motors for sale in the USA. So fine if you want a single speed motor, but we are recommending you go to VS now.

Read Pump DOE Regulations - Further Reading
 
I thought that only applied to pumps/motors greater than 1 hp. Not saying you are wrong, just what I understood from the new regulations that went into effect in June/July of 2021. At 3/4 or 1 hp, the savings on a VS pump would be minimal compared to those that actually require a 2-3 hp pump/motor.

When I bought this place in 1996, it had a 2.5 hp pump. Overkill! When I remodeled the pool, I rebuilt the pad and installed a properly sized pump, which calculated out at 3/4-1 hp. That is why I got the uprated 3/4 hp WhisperFlo, which rings in at .95 total hp.
 
If you stay under 1 HHP, you may still be able to get a SS motor. It will still use more electricity than a 3 hp VS. My VS uses about 200 watts to pump at the required flow to make my SWCG work. Your 1 hp SS motor will use 1 kW.
 
Hey, I am all about conservation and efficiency. I do my best to limit my carbon footprint in my daily life--efficient daily vehicle, ride-sharing and public transportation whenever possible, lowering/raising my HVAC thermostat in the winter/summer, LED bulbs, etc. My only problem with this new requirement is that even if someone installs a VS pump/motor, THEY have to choose to run it at lower speeds for it to be beneficial. I would like to think that everyone would choose to do so but I know better than assuming that will be the case. Whether it is ignorance of how it works or just a couldn't care less attitude, utilizing the benefits of VS pumps will likely fall short of acceptable compliance. I'm sure that is why the pump manufacturers were all on board with this. They get to raise their prices and increase their margins by statute and it doesn't matter to them if the end-user takes advantage of the savings.

That said, since the most logical option is to replace the motor and not the pump, I see options available to upgrade the motor to a VS that will attach to my perfectly good current wet end. I will certainly do so if that is indeed an acceptable option. My only concern with that is whether doing so will require changing out the impeller and other parts to match. If I stay with the same size max hp VS motor, should it work with the current impeller or will I have to change that to match? At a certain point, the savings of just replacing the motor goes away if I have to replace several parts in the wet end to match the new VS motor.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.