pool pump overheating

Jump to latest Follow Reply
G

goldsax

0
Jun 15, 2010
11
hi,
re. Argonaut av100 pump
I changed a leaking seal and impeller last week and the pump now runs quietly and smooth.
before I fitted the pump together I made sure that all parts are moving freely.
unfortunatly the pump runs for 1.5 hrs, overheats, stops, cools down and starts again.
I have read several thread re. this on the internet, mainly to do with the motor drawing up too much current.
the motor is connected to a dedicated pump switch and I can vary the amperage.
I have reduced the amperage but this has not had any effect.
will increasing the amps help?

any ideas please.
thanks raj
 
Do you mean you can reduce the amps available to the motor? Can you measure the amp draw? Check the service plate on the motor for the amperage rating and adjust your amps accordingly. I would also check the voltage to the motor. If everything is good, it may be time to replace the motor. How old???
 
many thanks for your replies.
1) its a fixed speed pump
2) the parts replaced were manufactures original parts. so no change.
3) the pump is 12 years old. however was working without overheating the previous day prior to me changing the impeller and seal. infact it now runs quite and more smoothly then before.
4) the pump is connected to a dedicated ‘on/off’ switch’ that has amperage control.

will have to learn how to measure voltage draw. i have a multimeter that i have engraver used ;)
 
Amperage draw, not voltage draw. Although voltage should be noted. Easiest would be with an inductive amp meter. most multi-meters max out at either 1 or 10 amps (internal fuse). If your motor is having a problem, it may be drawing more than 10 amps, so inductive is safest. Problem with electronic appliances is that they work fine one day, and quit the next. Often without warning.

12 years is a good run in my book...
 
Amperage control with a fixed speed pump does not make sense. Can you explain how that works?

Unless you're changing the speed or impeller size the amps are pretty much fixed and not adjustable.

Is the impeller the same part number as before?

Check to see if the shaft turns freely.
 
Yea, amperage control to me would be like using too small of an extension cord for your vacuum cleaner. Bad for the motor, and you could have a fire...

You say amperage control and we automatically think you can adjust it, throttle it, CONTROL it.

You're in the UK, maybe that's what you call a circuit breaker???

Forgive me, i'm just a yank!
 
i cannot thank you enough for your replies.
the impeller is same size/serial no. checked before replacing it.
the motor/shaft impeller move better then before. smooth
POOL CLOWN: you are correct. the pump is connected to its own designated circuit breaker, but in it there is a little dial that controls the amps form 5A to 3A.. ever since i have known it, the dial was always set on 3.5A.

last hour i unwired the pump form its switch and rewired it into another circuit. the same overheating issue arose...


how ever if you believe the 12 years is good going then i may bite the bullet and get a new one. i just feel gutted that i spent about $100 on new seal and impeller :(

cheers raj
 
goldsax said:
will have to learn how to measure voltage draw. i have a multimeter that i have engraver used ;)
Click to expand...

I'm surprised no one else has said this yet, so I will...

Please BE CAREFUL.

If you have never used a multimeter, I fear that you likely don't know how to properly use it. I don't mean that as an insult, but as a caution. 230V is no joke. At 10amps, it can kill you.

**DO NOT DO THIS WITH YOUR MULTIMETER ON ANY SETTING OTHER THAN AC VOLTAGE**

Measuring voltage is relatively easy. While the pump is running (cover removed), you can identify your hot (line), neutral, and ground (earth) wires and [with your meter on the appropriate fused setting] touch the leads hot to neutral, you should get 230V (I might be wrong, I believe UK is 230V hot). However do be very careful not to let the leads touch anything other than the points you are probing. If you accidentally touch a metal part of the chassis while probing the hot wire, for example.... see below.

Do ***NOT*** try to measure current / amperage draw this way. This is a common mistake. If you touch the leads while the pump is on and your meter is set for amperage, YOU WILL SHORT THE CIRCUIT. In the BEST case scenario, you will make a huge spark, melt your meter leads, fry the fuse in your meter, startle the @#$% out of yourself, and get your heart racing. Hopefully you won't blind yourself with a hot spark in the eye or burn your hand.

In the WORST case scenario, your heart will not be racing. It won't even be beating.

To measure current/amperage you must either use a clamp style meter OR you must break the circuit and put the meter IN LINE with the circuit. The first is obviously much easier and much safer, though not foolproof, you must be very careful when pushing a meter into wiring as you can push wires into each other or the chassis.

If you are not 110% comfortable with knowing exactly what you're doing, DON'T TOUCH IT. Hire an electrician. Please.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
:eek:
thanks for the guidance...
i best leave this circuit testing to the electrician.


last question :
if i bought a new pump( i.e. a new Argonaut av100 which is what i have had for the past 12+ years ). will it be a plug and play scenario? or will the new pump need to be checked/calibrated again?
thanks raj
 
goldsax said:
or will the new pump need to be checked/calibrated again?
thanks raj
Click to expand...

I'm not a pump expert by any means, but I'm not sure what would need to be checked or calibrated. If it's the same pump it should mate up to the plumbing the same (assuming they haven't changed the physical design in 12+ years) and the wiring is standard. If it's the same model then the motor should have the same power output and you should get the same flow rate through your system, or at least close enough to not be an issue. If you went with a much more powerful model you might exceed flow limits elsewhere in your system.
 
goldsax said:
but in it there is a little dial that controls the amps form 5A to 3A.. ever since i have known it, the dial was always set on 3.5A.
Click to expand...
Do you know exactly what that is? I know you said it was working before but I would bypass that device and see if the pump works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply