It should stay clear for longer than that to make sure you can move on to the CC phase. Try waiting 15-30 seconds up to a minute... after a minute it can turn pink again and that's just interference from chloramines.
Pool opening for the season
- Thread starter Johnny B
- Start date
No lie guys, FC is holding but CC remains > 0.5, often 1.5.
Some repeat of above posts so you don't have to scroll:
4/20/10
Sunrise test
FC 14 so holding, Shock Target was 14.
CC 1.5
I did not add bleach or anything.
7:30am, about 1 hour after above test, about 1 hour before sun hits the pool, wanted to act on PoolMom’s advice about waiting longer between tests.
FC 15.5, huh? So this test or the test done 1 hour prior or both tests are inaccurate. Is my testing that sloppy? The test isn’t that difficult, I re-read the instructions, I’m in no rush, I know something is fishy so I’m paying attention- I don’t get it.
CC 1; I waited longer, probably 45 seconds, test done in outdoor light. Hopefully we can conclude I was not waiting long enough between tests?
I did not add bleach or anything.
9:20pm, nightly test, about 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 11
CC 1
So shocked, Shock Target 14
Got a very little bit of rain prior to this test but pollen is high so I’m guessing the rain brings it into the pool at a faster rate. A more significant rain after this test but probably less than 0.25 inches total.
pH 7.3, remains a tad low but is rising as expected
4/21/10
7:00am sunrise test
FC 16 so FC is holding/ exceeding Shock Target of 14, still guessing at CYA- too soon to test, tomarrow I can test CYA
CC 1.5, waited 1 minute between tests, used a timer. As mentioned, some rain during high pollen count.
Water looks good, just added some DE to my new sand filter yesterday.
No lie guys, FC is holding but CC remains > 0.5, often 1.5.
Sloppy testing?
Expired reagents? The FC reagents are from Duraleigh bought last summer & stored indoors summer & winter/ always. The R-0003 for the CC test is “new in 2008â€. I do have a bottle of R-003 that is “new in 2009†that I will use for tonight’s nightly test; the FC is high & I don’t feel like using more reagents so I won’t test until tonight unless you guys tell me to.
Thank you in advance for you suggestions & critique.
sincerely,
Johnny B
(PoolMom said the "B" is for basketcase)
Some repeat of above posts so you don't have to scroll:
4/20/10
Sunrise test
FC 14 so holding, Shock Target was 14.
CC 1.5
I did not add bleach or anything.
7:30am, about 1 hour after above test, about 1 hour before sun hits the pool, wanted to act on PoolMom’s advice about waiting longer between tests.
FC 15.5, huh? So this test or the test done 1 hour prior or both tests are inaccurate. Is my testing that sloppy? The test isn’t that difficult, I re-read the instructions, I’m in no rush, I know something is fishy so I’m paying attention- I don’t get it.
CC 1; I waited longer, probably 45 seconds, test done in outdoor light. Hopefully we can conclude I was not waiting long enough between tests?
I did not add bleach or anything.
9:20pm, nightly test, about 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 11
CC 1
So shocked, Shock Target 14
Got a very little bit of rain prior to this test but pollen is high so I’m guessing the rain brings it into the pool at a faster rate. A more significant rain after this test but probably less than 0.25 inches total.
pH 7.3, remains a tad low but is rising as expected
4/21/10
7:00am sunrise test
FC 16 so FC is holding/ exceeding Shock Target of 14, still guessing at CYA- too soon to test, tomarrow I can test CYA
CC 1.5, waited 1 minute between tests, used a timer. As mentioned, some rain during high pollen count.
Water looks good, just added some DE to my new sand filter yesterday.
No lie guys, FC is holding but CC remains > 0.5, often 1.5.
Sloppy testing?
Expired reagents? The FC reagents are from Duraleigh bought last summer & stored indoors summer & winter/ always. The R-0003 for the CC test is “new in 2008â€. I do have a bottle of R-003 that is “new in 2009†that I will use for tonight’s nightly test; the FC is high & I don’t feel like using more reagents so I won’t test until tonight unless you guys tell me to.
Thank you in advance for you suggestions & critique.
sincerely,
Johnny B
(PoolMom said the "B" is for basketcase)
I did not! 
Try the newer reagent, but unless its discolored or something the first one should still be good... mine is.
Try the newer reagent, but unless its discolored or something the first one should still be good... mine is.
Some slow to go away CC is common enough on opening, especially if you lost CYA over the winter. Keep the FC level up till it goes away.
FC holds pretty well, but CC continues to vary.
Below is some repeat of prior posts so you dont have to scroll.
4/15/10
TA 90
Borates 30
4/19/10
12:45am
FC 9.5 so shocked, target 14
6:45am, six hours since last test (target was 14)
FC 17.5 (we’re guessing at my CYA level)
CC 0.5
I’m done shocking
Nightly test
FC 10
CC 1.5, shocked at Target 14
4/20/10
Sunrise test
FC 14 so holding
CC 1.5
I did not add bleach or anything.
7:30am, about 1 hour after above test, about 1 hour before sun hits the pool.
FC 15.5,
CC 1, I waited longer between tests, probably 45 seconds. Hopefully we can conclude I was not waiting long enough between tests?
I did not add bleach or anything.
Nightly test, about 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 11
CC 1
So shocked, Shock Target 14
pH 7.3, remains a tad low but is rising as expected
4/21/10
sunrise test
FC 16
CC 1.5, waited 1 minute between tests. Some rain during high pollen count.
Nightly test, 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 9
CC 2.5 so shocked Target 14
4/22/10
Nightly test, 25 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 13.5
CC 0.5 so done shocking, added nothing, reduced pump run-time, I’ll test FC & CC tomorrow night to be sure.
4/23/10
Nightly test, 46 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 9.5
CC 1 so shocked Target 14, (shouldn’t have reduced pump run time? Or makes little difference because this is more a chemistry than a debris issue?)
pH 7.2
CYA 30
4/24/10
8:30pm, nightly test, 25 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 10.5
CC 1 so shocked Target 14
4/25/10
Some rain last night during high pollen count
Sunrise test, 10 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 14.5, holding/exceeding
CC 1- 1.5
Plenty of backwashing happening possibly because I added DE to the sand filter(can see another thread re this, some troubleshoothing/ new lessons may happen on that thread)
Here is my plan (improve it if you have a suggestion)
- do nothing more than a single test daily & shock unlesss the FC is 13.5 or more (after sundown is convenient for me) until I see the CC 0.5 or less at which time I will shock anyways to get the FC to shock level because I have a recent history of the CC "being acceptable then creep back up to an unacceptable level"; plus I’ll run a sunrise test the next morning.
You don’t see a real advantage to testing more often, do you? The FC is holding most mornings.
Thanks
Below is some repeat of prior posts so you dont have to scroll.
4/15/10
TA 90
Borates 30
4/19/10
12:45am
FC 9.5 so shocked, target 14
6:45am, six hours since last test (target was 14)
FC 17.5 (we’re guessing at my CYA level)
CC 0.5
I’m done shocking
Nightly test
FC 10
CC 1.5, shocked at Target 14
4/20/10
Sunrise test
FC 14 so holding
CC 1.5
I did not add bleach or anything.
7:30am, about 1 hour after above test, about 1 hour before sun hits the pool.
FC 15.5,
CC 1, I waited longer between tests, probably 45 seconds. Hopefully we can conclude I was not waiting long enough between tests?
I did not add bleach or anything.
Nightly test, about 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 11
CC 1
So shocked, Shock Target 14
pH 7.3, remains a tad low but is rising as expected
4/21/10
sunrise test
FC 16
CC 1.5, waited 1 minute between tests. Some rain during high pollen count.
Nightly test, 24 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 9
CC 2.5 so shocked Target 14
4/22/10
Nightly test, 25 hours since last night’s shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 13.5
CC 0.5 so done shocking, added nothing, reduced pump run-time, I’ll test FC & CC tomorrow night to be sure.
4/23/10
Nightly test, 46 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 9.5
CC 1 so shocked Target 14, (shouldn’t have reduced pump run time? Or makes little difference because this is more a chemistry than a debris issue?)
pH 7.2
CYA 30
4/24/10
8:30pm, nightly test, 25 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 10.5
CC 1 so shocked Target 14
4/25/10
Some rain last night during high pollen count
Sunrise test, 10 hours since last shocking of Shock Target 14
FC 14.5, holding/exceeding
CC 1- 1.5
Plenty of backwashing happening possibly because I added DE to the sand filter(can see another thread re this, some troubleshoothing/ new lessons may happen on that thread)
Here is my plan (improve it if you have a suggestion)
- do nothing more than a single test daily & shock unlesss the FC is 13.5 or more (after sundown is convenient for me) until I see the CC 0.5 or less at which time I will shock anyways to get the FC to shock level because I have a recent history of the CC "being acceptable then creep back up to an unacceptable level"; plus I’ll run a sunrise test the next morning.
You don’t see a real advantage to testing more often, do you? The FC is holding most mornings.
Thanks
There isn't any need to test more than once a day if the FC level continues to stay reasonably high.
For crying out loud. My problem is a contaminated cylinder.
Last night by accident, I used the wrong graduated cylinder. FC was as ithas been for weeks, CC: 0. So great I’m done, I’ll shock & do the sunrise test.
Sunrise test: used the proper graduated cylinder. FC holds, CC: 1 & I think no way-, the water temperature is < 70F, super clean & looks it great, blab la bla.
For the heck of it, I test with the "wrong" graduated cylinder, CC: 0
I assume you want me to fill the proper contaminated cylinder with bleach & let it sit an hour or so ? Or just as few minutes full of bleach should do it, right?
Or is the plastic shot & it needs replacing?
Of course the next FC & CC test I run I’ll again be using both graduated cylinders to verify. But I always assumed there was a reason the proper graduated cylinder says “chlorine only†on it & it makes sense to keep graduated cylinders dedicated to certain tests.
After testing, I always rinse the proper graduated cylinder in tap water multiple times then shake it dry & back into the case. Should I be drying it? Before testing it is always rinsed 2 times in the pool & the 3rd time is my sample.
I’m cursed. I haven’t read about this problem anywhere on TFP. I have to believe it is the tap water residue from not totally drying it prior to storage; unless you guys tell me the plastic is shot.
The “chlorine only†graduated cylinder is not as clear/clean-looking as the others- which look new. I’ll let you know if the appearance changes or not after bleaching it if that is what you guys advise.
Bummer, wasted a lot of chemicals & reagents & pump time & my time & moderators' time on this one, still quite cool here, balancing should have been a snap- major bummer.
Last night by accident, I used the wrong graduated cylinder. FC was as ithas been for weeks, CC: 0. So great I’m done, I’ll shock & do the sunrise test.
Sunrise test: used the proper graduated cylinder. FC holds, CC: 1 & I think no way-, the water temperature is < 70F, super clean & looks it great, blab la bla.
For the heck of it, I test with the "wrong" graduated cylinder, CC: 0
I assume you want me to fill the proper contaminated cylinder with bleach & let it sit an hour or so ? Or just as few minutes full of bleach should do it, right?
Or is the plastic shot & it needs replacing?
Of course the next FC & CC test I run I’ll again be using both graduated cylinders to verify. But I always assumed there was a reason the proper graduated cylinder says “chlorine only†on it & it makes sense to keep graduated cylinders dedicated to certain tests.
After testing, I always rinse the proper graduated cylinder in tap water multiple times then shake it dry & back into the case. Should I be drying it? Before testing it is always rinsed 2 times in the pool & the 3rd time is my sample.
I’m cursed. I haven’t read about this problem anywhere on TFP. I have to believe it is the tap water residue from not totally drying it prior to storage; unless you guys tell me the plastic is shot.
The “chlorine only†graduated cylinder is not as clear/clean-looking as the others- which look new. I’ll let you know if the appearance changes or not after bleaching it if that is what you guys advise.
Bummer, wasted a lot of chemicals & reagents & pump time & my time & moderators' time on this one, still quite cool here, balancing should have been a snap- major bummer.
That's the first I've heard of that! Good job on figuring that out even if by mistake! 
I don't have a recommendation as to whether to fill it with chlorine or not but that's probably what I'd do. I'm sure someone else can say one way or the other.
I don't have a recommendation as to whether to fill it with chlorine or not but that's probably what I'd do. I'm sure someone else can say one way or the other.
The FAS-DPD chlorine test will slowly turn the cylinders cloudy. Eventually they need to be replaced. There is a separate cylinder for that test because of the clouding, which can make the other tests more difficult to read.
When doing the overnight FC loss test it is important that you use the same cylinder both times, even though it shouldn't matter. You want the only different between the tests to be the FC level in the water.
Nothing you have said in any way suggests that there was contamination, though I suppose it is possible.
When doing the overnight FC loss test it is important that you use the same cylinder both times, even though it shouldn't matter. You want the only different between the tests to be the FC level in the water.
Nothing you have said in any way suggests that there was contamination, though I suppose it is possible.
I don’t see how it can be anything other than contamination (or testing error- but upon the 1st drop of R-003 it pinks up in one cylinder & not the other, even after 5 drops, who cares what the # of drops of R 0871 it took to get to clear, it got to clear in both cylinders, then a huge difference in adding R-003 & upon the 1st drop it pinks vs. no pink after 5 drops .
The sunrise tests with the 2 different cylinders were done minutes apart.
I’ll zap the cloudy one with bleach, next FC & CC test I run I’ll use both cylinders, if a difference, then the plastic is shot & I’ll trash it. Maybe ChemGeek will reply
basketcase I tell ya
The sunrise tests with the 2 different cylinders were done minutes apart.
I’ll zap the cloudy one with bleach, next FC & CC test I run I’ll use both cylinders, if a difference, then the plastic is shot & I’ll trash it. Maybe ChemGeek will reply
basketcase I tell ya
The are my original test vials - three years old. I can't detect any difference in clearness or clarity - I wipe it out with a paper towel after each use (there does occassionally seem to be a grey residue on the paper towel so perhaps this extra steps prevents the tube from becoming cloudy...)
This is interesting.
When I received my TF-100, I wondered why there was a separate tube for the FAS-DPD test, but didn't worry too much about it. Shortly after I got my magnetic stirrer, I saw a comment that the FAS-DPD would eventually make the tube cloudy. Since the tube that comes with the stirrer is the same Taylor part number as the tube that came with the HtH kit I bought last summer*, I use one for FAS-DPD and one for everything else. I should note that when I first got the stirrer, I ran a whole battery of tests a couple of times using the one tube. The readings I came up with were not substantially different than what I had come up with previously. This would lead me to believe that Johnny B's contamination may not have come from the tests/reagents themselves, but from some other source.
Oh, chem geek and duraleigh, we need your expertise here. (Where's the sing-song smiley when you need it? )
* Yeah, I know. Naughty me! In my defense, I bought that kit before I'd heard of TFP, but still knowing that I needed more accurate numbers than I was getting from the strips.
When I received my TF-100, I wondered why there was a separate tube for the FAS-DPD test, but didn't worry too much about it. Shortly after I got my magnetic stirrer, I saw a comment that the FAS-DPD would eventually make the tube cloudy. Since the tube that comes with the stirrer is the same Taylor part number as the tube that came with the HtH kit I bought last summer*, I use one for FAS-DPD and one for everything else. I should note that when I first got the stirrer, I ran a whole battery of tests a couple of times using the one tube. The readings I came up with were not substantially different than what I had come up with previously. This would lead me to believe that Johnny B's contamination may not have come from the tests/reagents themselves, but from some other source.
Oh, chem geek and duraleigh, we need your expertise here. (Where's the sing-song smiley when you need it? )
* Yeah, I know. Naughty me! In my defense, I bought that kit before I'd heard of TFP, but still knowing that I needed more accurate numbers than I was getting from the strips.
I filled it w bleach & let it sit 30 min or so. 80% less cloudy. Went in w a white cloth & finger etc & got it looking 99% brand new ( golden color residue was removed onto the white cloth). With all the rinsing in tap & pool water as stated above, I don't know of any other source of contamination other than this residue.
I'll report back at the next FC & CC test done w both vials.
I'll report back at the next FC & CC test done w both vials.
The cleaned proper cylinder & other cylinder gave identical results of FC & CC.
The only thing I’d restate is that I was surprised at the golden color residue that was removed onto the white cloth AFTER it was soaked in bleach & that it further unclouded/cleaned the cylindar.
pH 7.5
FC 5 & will Target 6
CC 0
CYA 30 (1 week ago)
Borates 30 (2 weeks ago)
TA 60, 2 weeks ago it was 90 so I’ll check weekly until it stabilizes, I should Target TA of 80? So add 93oz by weight oz baking soda, right?
CH 250 2 weeks ago, no worries/ leave it?
Thanks
The only thing I’d restate is that I was surprised at the golden color residue that was removed onto the white cloth AFTER it was soaked in bleach & that it further unclouded/cleaned the cylindar.
pH 7.5
FC 5 & will Target 6
CC 0
CYA 30 (1 week ago)
Borates 30 (2 weeks ago)
TA 60, 2 weeks ago it was 90 so I’ll check weekly until it stabilizes, I should Target TA of 80? So add 93oz by weight oz baking soda, right?
CH 250 2 weeks ago, no worries/ leave it?
Thanks
Not sure why your TA is dropping.... but yes that calculation sounds correct.
Yes, your CH is fine.
Yes, your CH is fine.
Added the baking soda 7 days ago, Target TA of 80, tested today & TA is 60, so I’ll repeat the baking soda. Nothing concerns you? I’ll retest TA a week after adding the Baking Soda
FC & CC are fine daily, OTO looks like 4 daily; tested today with both OTO & the other one & FC was actually 2.5 (OTO looked like 3-4 today) & CC was 0. So feasibly I have been letting FC get too low but I’ll bump up the Target FC
pH got to 7.8 a few days back so I treated with acid & today pH is 7.6.
Main question is re the TA, just hit it with more baking soda, right?
Thanks
FC & CC are fine daily, OTO looks like 4 daily; tested today with both OTO & the other one & FC was actually 2.5 (OTO looked like 3-4 today) & CC was 0. So feasibly I have been letting FC get too low but I’ll bump up the Target FC
pH got to 7.8 a few days back so I treated with acid & today pH is 7.6.
Main question is re the TA, just hit it with more baking soda, right?
Thanks
Yes, TA is increased with baking soda.
As for the contamination in the cylinder, that is truly strange and implies some sort of buildup over time, maybe something like biofilm growth in between uses, especially if the cylinder wasn't dried out each time. One would think that the constant chlorine tests would get rid of what is in the cylinder, but biofilms can be quite tough once formed and there won't be chlorine in the tube after you rinse it out so bacteria could certainly grow (though usually there aren't enough nutrients around unless your tap water has sufficient phosphates and nitrates, etc.). The extra cleaning with bleach could have removed the biofilm and would explain how you got results back to normal again.
This is all just speculation, but it does imply that when the cylinder gets cloudy, it might be worth a soaking with bleach to help get it clear again and remove any possible biofilm or other organic contamination that might interfere with the tests. This is the first time we've heard of this, or at least had something so well documented. Thanks for taking the time to figure it out.
As for the contamination in the cylinder, that is truly strange and implies some sort of buildup over time, maybe something like biofilm growth in between uses, especially if the cylinder wasn't dried out each time. One would think that the constant chlorine tests would get rid of what is in the cylinder, but biofilms can be quite tough once formed and there won't be chlorine in the tube after you rinse it out so bacteria could certainly grow (though usually there aren't enough nutrients around unless your tap water has sufficient phosphates and nitrates, etc.). The extra cleaning with bleach could have removed the biofilm and would explain how you got results back to normal again.
This is all just speculation, but it does imply that when the cylinder gets cloudy, it might be worth a soaking with bleach to help get it clear again and remove any possible biofilm or other organic contamination that might interfere with the tests. This is the first time we've heard of this, or at least had something so well documented. Thanks for taking the time to figure it out.
4/15/10- opened pool, CYA 0-20, Jason said treatment it like 0 & add CYA per the calculator, Targeted 30
4/23/10- CYA 30
Plenty of Rain & backwashing until
6/18/10- CYA 20? Could see the dot with all the solution in the view tube, but it was cloudy. Want me to interpret this test result this time as 0 or 10 or 20?
1- Interpret as 20 makes sense to me, again target 30, then re-test in a week, agree?
2- to go from 20 to 30 you get 28oz by volume, right? (don't want to screw up CYA)
(FC has been in range, CC has been 0, chlorinr demand seems reasonable but still a rookie)
pH is 7.5
Borates 30
TA 70
Thanks
4/23/10- CYA 30
Plenty of Rain & backwashing until
6/18/10- CYA 20? Could see the dot with all the solution in the view tube, but it was cloudy. Want me to interpret this test result this time as 0 or 10 or 20?
1- Interpret as 20 makes sense to me, again target 30, then re-test in a week, agree?
2- to go from 20 to 30 you get 28oz by volume, right? (don't want to screw up CYA)
(FC has been in range, CC has been 0, chlorinr demand seems reasonable but still a rookie)
pH is 7.5
Borates 30
TA 70
Thanks
Johnny I suggest you target 40.
you know what you are doing - you won't screw it up
you know what you are doing - you won't screw it up