Pool Math App for testing chemicals

dcarey72

Member
May 14, 2023
19
Alabama
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I test my chemicals with a Taylor test kit with the FAS/DPD test. I log my test results into the app and when it gets to the part of what I should add to the pool, it seems way too low. For instance, my FC is at 2 and it says the target is 6. It says I should only put in 87oz or 2 quarts, 3 cups of liquid chlorine. That doesn't seem enough to bring it up from a 2 to a 6. My CYA is 45. Also, my pH is 7.8-8 and it says to only add 8.1oz. Does this all seem correct? Thanks for the help.
 
In the settings of pool math, have you filled in the details of your pool? Including volume? Pool math works off of the pool details to make its calculations
 
The fc calculation is correct for your listed pool volume & 10% liquid chlorine, however you should count your cya as 50 for chlorination purposes & aim for high target 🎯 to ensure you don’t fall below minimum again before your next dose. Below minimum risks algae & nasties 🤢FC/CYA Levels

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Not sure about your ph as that is also based on your strength of MA, your target, & your ta
 
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You can't read a CYA of 45 as the scale is logarithmic and not linear. If the result is over 40 and less than 50, round up to 50.

Be sure your pool is set up corredtly and that you have selected the correct strength of chlorine and acid to make the calcs accurate.
 
In the app a on the top right corner is a gear button. Hit that gear and makes sure you have chosen all your desired settings
 
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I don't know. I do it in the app, on my phone?
Your settings are correct as the App matches your signature. 17,000 gallon plaster pool 👍

87ounces of 10% liquid chlorine will bring you from 2 up to 6ppm. All your math looks like you’re doing things correctly.
 
Hi all,

I test my pool with a Taylor test kit and was having a hard time getting the test to produce a result. So, I was advised by a member to use distilled water and dilute the pool water 1:1. Then do the test with that mixture, follow all the other instructions and double the results. It worked great. When I enter the info in the Math App, with my result of 360, it falls under the recommended range 251-650 and ideal range 350-550, but it tells me to add 227oz of calcium chloride. Why does it tell me to add this when it falls in those good ranges?

Also, we are starting to get the white build up on the tiles at the water line and white buildup in some of the grout at the seams. What causes this and how can it be removed?

Thanks for the help!
 
The app picks mid range for target. Change that to 350. No need to add calcium.

White buildup implies calcium scale. Maintain your CSI at or just below 0 and that should be minimized.
 

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The fc calculation is correct for your listed pool volume & 10% liquid chlorine, however you should count your cya as 50 for chlorination purposes & aim for high target 🎯 to ensure you don’t fall below minimum again before your next dose. Below minimum risks algae & nasties 🤢FC/CYA Levels

View attachment 519013
View attachment 519012



Not sure about your ph as that is also based on your strength of MA, your target, & your ta

The app picks mid range for target. Change that to 350. No need to add calcium.

White buildup implies calcium scale. Maintain your CSI at or just below 0 and that should be minimized.

I have a UV Ozonator. I go to the pool store once a month to get sample tested. They just told me that since I have that, my FC should only be 1-2ppm. Is that correct? The Math app doesn't have anywhere for me to list the Ozonator and my target is always suggested to be 5-6.
 
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I have a UV Ozonator. I go to the pool store once a month to get sample tested. They just told me that since I have that, my FC should only be 1-2ppm. Is that correct? The Math app doesn't have anywhere for me to list the Ozonator and my target is always suggested to be 5-6.
An Ozonator is of no consequence to proper pool water chemistry. It consumes some of your FC, but little else.
You should maintain your FC based on FC/CYA Levels
You have a quality test kit. Please do not go to a pool store for testing. As one of our Mods says, it is like cheating off the stupidest kit in class.

 
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An Ozonator is of no consequence to proper pool water chemistry. It consumes some of your FC, but little else.
You should maintain your FC based on FC/CYA Levels
You have a quality test kit. Please do not go to a pool store for testing. As one of our Mods says, it is like cheating off the stupidest kit in class.

Got it, thanks!
 
An Ozonator is of no consequence to proper pool water chemistry. It consumes some of your FC, but little else.
You should maintain your FC based on FC/CYA Levels
You have a quality test kit. Please do not go to a pool store for testing. As one of our Mods says, it is like cheating off the stupidest kit in class.

I hate that we bought into it. They told us how great they are and we could have spent the money on something else for the pool.
 
They told us how great they are and we could have spent the money on something else for the pool.
The manufacturers themselves boast needing less chlorine with any of the secondary sanitizing systems, except, not a one of them block out the sun, which consumes up to 4ppm of FC a day this time of year. (Maybe even more in the uber hot places). They all claim you'll need less daily FC than the sun consumes, with your average pool owner not knowing the difference, or why they're consuming chlorine in the first place. They just see 'need less chlorine' and jump on it.

These secondary sanitizing units are all about algae control after the fact, and they help some with that, but nobody questions the industry advice which all but ensures you'll benefit from a device to help control your algae problem. Notice I said help and not fix. Algae grows exponentially and nobody to date has a device that can overcome that with the wave of a magic wand.

Replace the daily FC loss from the sun, with some wiggle room for whatever else happens such as a get together or a particularly high UV day, and you'll never have algae to need further help with. It's literally as simple as that.
 
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The manufacturers themselves boast needing less chlorine with any of the secondary sanitizing systems, except, not a one of them block out the sun, which consumes up to 4ppm of FC a day this time of year. (Maybe even more in the uber hot places). They all claim you'll need less daily FC than the sun consumes, with your average pool owner not knowing the difference, or why they're consuming chlorine in the first place. They just see 'need less chlorine' and jump on it.

These secondary sanitizing units are all about algae control after the fact, and they help some with that, but nobody questions the industry advice which all but ensures you'll benefit from a device to help control your algae problem. Notice I said help and not fix. Algae grows exponentially and nobody to date has a device that can overcome that with the wave of a magic wand.

Replace the daily FC loss from the sun, with some wiggle room for whatever else happens such as a get together or a particularly high UV day, and you'll never have algae to need further help with. It's literally as simple as that.
Thank you
 
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@dcarey72 I live by a simple rule, if I can’t test it with my kit and it’s not listed in poolmath so I can calculate it/know its effects I don’t use it! Ozone & UV fall into this category along with several other things like mps (non chlorine shock)
 
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