Pool light stopped working years ago. Read on...

Out of curiosity and you know, simplest solution often being correct, it is possible the switch itself is bad. Have you tried to remove the pool light switch and just tie those two wires together (the white and black at the single switch are just being uses as a switched hot leg, they are not hot and nuetral).
Eh, I thought this too but the problem still remains that neither the black or white wire has 120 volts on them. Since I'm not even sure which breaker circuit the pool light switch is on (maybe used to be on the pool pump breaker? idk) I just grabbed my insulated meter probe and popped the locked in wire out. Not that the shock hazard mattered because testing the switch proved it was fine, and neither wire had continuity to each other OR to the common ground. So for sure a busted circuit. I'll try to wire the transformer directly to the 20amp breaker as mentioned above and see if the transformer activates with the 20amp breaker switched on. If THAT doesn't work, I'm looking at a much bigger electrical gremlin.
 
Eh, I thought this too but the problem still remains that neither the black or white wire has 120 volts on them. Since I'm not even sure which breaker circuit the pool light switch is on (maybe used to be on the pool pump breaker? idk) I just grabbed my insulated meter probe and popped the locked in wire out. Not that the shock hazard mattered because testing the switch proved it was fine, and neither wire had continuity to each other OR to the common ground. So for sure a busted circuit. I'll try to wire the transformer directly to the 20amp breaker as mentioned above and see if the transformer activates with the 20amp breaker switched on. If THAT doesn't work, I'm looking at a much bigger electrical gremlin.
That switch won't show voltage based on how its connected. Voltage is measured between the hot and neutral in home wiring show the potential difference between the two legs of the circuit. That switch is wired only to the hot side of the circuit and won't show a voltage because of that. You can verify if you have 120 at the switch by checking between the ground and the incoming line to the switch as the ground should be bonded to the neutral wire.
 
Alright lads, I checked continuity on the bulb circuit and it is there. So I cut power at the main breaker to the POOL PUMP circuit so I wouldn't fly 50 yards back into our runoff ditch in case I got zapped. I reconnected the wires at the junction box by the pump, wired the transformer directly to the 20 amp breaker, turned the main breaker POOL PUMP circuit back on, flipped the 20amp pool breaker switch AND...the sweet quiet humming of the transformer as it works and the light burns for the first time in maybe 4 years again. Yeehaw, so I now have a working circuit to wire a GFCI and smart switch to. If I were a lazy SOB like the previous handyman who wired this electrical heck, I would just cap off unused wires, stuff it into the box and run the light solely off the 20 amp breaker and turn that on or off as needed. But let's be honest, I'm no lazy SOB lol. If you'd see the attention to the mechanical repair detail on the 1973 Cadillac I've been restoring for the past 3 years...you'd painfully agree :laughblue:.

SO, I'm done dealing with the mickey mouse interior light switch circuit, capping THAT off, and will head to The Home Depot to get my wires, electrical box, smart switch, nipple, and putting in a better circuit according to Ahultin's instructions. This way I'll set a timer in the phone app for the smart switch to turn the light on automatically at dusk. At least my new transformer is so quiet I can hardly hear it operate. The "working" one I replaced buzzed as loud as a power station. I'll update on this...
 
That switch wont show voltage base on how its connected. Voltage os measured between the hot and neutral in home wiring show the potential difference between the two legs of the circuit. That switch is wired only to the hot side of the circuit and won't show a voltage because of that. You can verify if you have 120 at the switch by checking between the ground and the incoming line to the switch as the ground should be bonded to the neutral wire.
Right, I checked voltage to the ground on either wire and it showed dead. And again, there was no continuity at all between the pool light wires and the ground or any of the wiring. That is why I'm assuming a break in the circuit.
 
Right, I checked voltage to the ground on either wire and it showed dead. And again, there was no continuity at all between the pool light wires and the ground or any of the wiring. That is why I'm assuming a break in the circuit.
Excellent. Sounds like the right conclusion and now you have a far better path forward. Let us know how you get on with everything!
 
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IMG_1460.jpeg

I don't know why but the image makes things seem off level a bit but I assure you it is all straight. Transformer kicks on schedule as per the smart app etc. Huge thank you to all.
Out of curiosity and you know, simplest solution often being correct, it is possible the switch itself is bad. Have you tried to remove the pool light switch and just tie those two wires together (the white and black at the single switch are just being uses as a switched hot leg, they are not hot and nuetral).
I only wished it were that simple!
 
View attachment 473863

I don't know why but the image makes things seem off level a bit but I assure you it is all straight. Transformer kicks on schedule as per the smart app etc. Huge thank you to all.

I only wished it were that simple!
Nice job!
Transformer turns off when you trip the gfci?
I assume you did it but meant to point out jic, make sure you cap the unused blue and yellow wires In the transformer ( and if the distance between transformer and light is long you may consider using the yellow for 13v or blue for 14v Inputs )
 
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How about something like this?

"Alexa, turn on the pool light."

Shelly 1 Relay Switch, WiFi Smart Home Automation, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home, iOS Android App, No Hub Required, Wireless Light Switch, DIY Remote Control Garage Door, UL Certified https://a.co/d/2vts0na


Make sure to put it in one of the plastic boxes so WiFi can get to it.
 
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Nice job!
Transformer turns off when you trip the gfci?
I assume you did it but meant to point out jic, make sure you cap the unused blue and yellow wires In the transformer ( and if the distance between transformer and light is long you may consider using the yellow for 13v or blue for 14v Inputs )
Yes it does trip and yes I capped off the unused wires as well :D. Will the more voltage make it burn brighter or is it for the length?
 
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Yes it does trip and yes I capped off the unused wires as well :D. Will the more voltage make it burn brighter or is it for the length?
It's for the length but voltage drop if present could theoretically make the light dimmer. What I'm told (by the pentair warranty contractor) is that while led lights will work to lower voltage, it reduces thier lifespan. There will be some voltage drop between the transformer an the light. If you have a junction box between the transformer and light, you could test voltage there.
 
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