Pool Leak Help!

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Update:

With a 11 hour bucket test:

Pump on: 1/4" lost in pool, bucket lost 1/16"
Pump off: 1/4" lost in pool, bucket lost 1/16"

From what I read, this leads me to believe it's a shell or fitting issue, not plumbing or pump/filter equipment. It would also confirm why the leak detector found the pressure hold steady in his pressure test of the skimmer and main drain returns. I already had the upper tiles all re-grouted, step crack filled with cement, and skimmer area reinforced with cement to make sure no gaps. All return lines were puttied as well as light and main drain area. I do not see any other visible cracks in my diamondbright.

Any suggestions?
 
I was hoping that maybe after all of this that it was the hydrostatic relief valve, as I saw some people mention it as the leak when all the pressure tests held, etc. Unfortunately, it looks like I dont have that valve in the main drain, just the hole for the main drain, and it appears the square is a plastic plug that is secured by some type of tape (tape was peeling a little). I'm about to go crazy. I don't maintain my pool so I'm concerned that if I turn my skimmer off for too long, the pool will be impossible to clean. It already happened after a few days, tons of dirt falling to the bottom making the pool green etc. But it appears maybe I don't have a choice at this time.


Swam with a mask on all throughout the pool today, did not see any more major grout cracking or any cracks elsewhere. Unfortunately the side of my pool is not the diamonbrite but are square tiles, so I guess it's possible that the shell behind it somehow cracked....the issue with that is to have some remove all the tiles and then re-tile or diamonbrite it would be very very cost prohibitive. I also want to mention that there seems to be a return line (without an eyeball) right below my skimmer, but no water is shooting out of it. I don't know if it ever did have water shoot out, or if it's for something else, but wanted to mention it in case it was somehow related to the issue.

Pool Main Drain.jpg
 
can anyone explain why I have 2 holes in my main drain (pic above) and one of them is capped? whats the purpose of the capped hole? I have 2 holes in my skimmer, one that has suction to the pump and the other is an equalizing line plumbed into the wall below the skimmer box.

I'm going to get rubber plugs and plug the two skimmer holes and equalizer. a member on private message suggested the equalizer line might be leaking.
 
UPDATE:

Used 1.5" pipe rubber plugs to plug both skimmer holes and the equalizer hole in the pool wall below the skimmer box. 12 hours later, and same 1/4" loss. Do I need to plug the main drain hole at the same time?
 
Believe it or not, I'm still dealing with trying to find this leak which seems impossible to find. I kept the 2 skimmer holes plugged, removed the plug from the equalizer hole (the hole in the pool wall about 12" below the skimmer), and plugged the main drain hole. No improvement, same loss of water. Since that time, I removed the plugs, turned the 3 way valve to main drain only, and have been running the pump daily, letting the water go down. Because the skimmer hasn't been running and the pool water level is now below the skimmer box the pool has gotten pretty dirty since my pool guy hasn't been able to vacuum it up, but that's okay for now.

As I mentioned previously, when I had a professional leak detector, he pressure tested all the lines and they all held steady pressure. Light, main drain and skimmer were all reinforced with cement or putty, and stair crack was fixed. The pool's diamondbrite is close to 17 yrs old (maybe was resurfaced once but don't know), and it's a little rough in some areas, but I was told that still shouldn't be causing a 3/4"-1" leak per day.

At this point is the best option just to let the water drop for another month, until I notice the leak is slowing down, and then see if it's at a return, light, etc? What if it never stops and continues below the return, does that mean it has to be the main drain, even though I plugged it already?

Given the pool water being pretty dirty, I'm not sure if it's safe to swim in, but I could chip off all the epoxy at the 3 returns, use a flathead screwdriver to pop the threaded fitting of the return out from the pool wall so that I could unthread it, and then plug it. Thoughts on where to go from here? This has been a 4+ month process and it's driving me absolutely crazy.
 
Hopefully someone responds soon.
Since you have this problem anyway wouldn't it be better to have it with a clean pool than a dirty one? Add water when necessary and at least you can enjoy the summer and you can figure this out in the fall...unless you live in a warm climate area.
You should set up your signature so when an expert responds again, they will know what you have and are dealing with.
 
Hi Poolrookie,
Sorry to hear of your problems seem you have had several. I have only been a pool owner for 3 years but this site has taught me much. As you see from my signature I own a vinyl pool and they are much different than plaster/gunite so I am not sure how much I can help but maybe some discussion will draw in some more knowledgeable people.

Plugged the main drain hole, and the 2 skimmer holes, still water loss....
Click to expand...

From this test in post #45 I would conclude the leak is somewhere in the pool not past where you plugged. It also appears that you had a paid professional come 4 times and he can not find the leak which means this is going to be difficult.

My next thought is: can you now isolate just the bottom drain and run the pool without air getting into the pump basket? If so I think I would let it drop to just below the returns, provided they are only about 18" below surface and you are not in a super high water table situation. If you can do this and it stops at some point you then know the level of the leak and can narrowed it down to just above where it stopped to be looking for it. I see no reason why the pool should get so dirty that you can not swim. Using a skimmer daily you can skim the top, brush the sides and bottom and most of the dirt will go out the main drain. If you want to make it go faster, but use a bit more water you could drain the pool down to just below skimmer. then the next day see if it is still loosing water, if so, you now know the leak is below the the returns. If no water loss (other than evaporation, witch is a good reason to keep doing "bucket" test during this) then you know it is above the skimmer. If so fill the pool with 4" of water a day and test when you start to loose water you know the level to within 4" and can narrow down to the exact level the same way.

I have some more Ideas but will wait for your response.
 
Thanks for your response. Ive been running it off main drain only no skimmer for two weeks now. I live in South Florida so the rain is slowing the progress, but it already has leaked way below the skimmer.

Im letting it go to the returns but its taking a while. However, how can it be the returns if the professional pressure tested all the lines and there were no issues. He also put epoxy around all the returns.
 

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I am thinking around the returns and maybe the epoxy that was put on did not get the leak sealed completely. Entry and exit spots are the most common place if you get down below the returns and still going down then I would bring my attention to the main drain, although you have done a pretty good inspection. Just another thought how deep are the lights? Since you do not winterize in south Florida maybe in winter better time to deal if it goes too far down. Do you know your water table could you drain or let it leak out in winter til it stops then know the leak is just above that, narrows down the search. Also I would be hesitant to let it go real far down for a long time so maybe drain to depth then check if still leaking, then again drain down more til you find it but need to know water table is low enough that it will not float or cave pool. Also maybe someone else will chime in about prolonged drain and effects on the plaster.
 
I filled it back up didnt want my plaster to get damaged on the steps. I chipped out the epoxy and took off the return citting. Its not threaded just pops in. Cant see much in there since my pool walls are plaster and then tile on top of it. How would I test for leaks in there? If the returns were pressure tested and cleared wouldn't that rule it out? did dye testing around the cap on the main drain and no leak. Walked around pool deck didnt feel any wet spots.

Im seriously all out of ideas. I have a huge tree about 15 ft from the pool I was thinking maybe the roots broke through the shell, but wouldnt it have cracked the tile on the walls then?
 
Did you ever get below the returns to see if it is at or below that level? If you can find the level where it doesn't leak it makes finding the leak a lot easier. Can you pump down quickly to just below returns and put wet blanket on steps for a day to see if you are still loosing. If not, bring level up 12" by wetting blanket and spraying sides and see if still loosing? any pool builders you can talk to about plaster and how long without water? Pressure test only tests inside of pipe but not around where pipe enters the pool itself.

Also, the start of this tread is old, maybe start new thread as the age of thread may be why not many responses, if you do start a new thread, post on here where you start the thread so I can follow or send me a PM, I am interested in how you find it and where it is.
 
Here is my thought on the returns; if pressure tested, plugging them probably won't solve problem, you are just double checking the pressure test, witch at this point is not a bad idea. My thought is; is there any easy way we can seal around the returns so we encompass the the plaster pipe interface? Unfortunately I can not think of one off the top of my head.
will await your report on the plugging test.
 
Pool Amateur said:
Here is my thought on the returns; if pressure tested, plugging them probably won't solve problem, you are just double checking the pressure test, witch at this point is not a bad idea. My thought is; is there any easy way we can seal around the returns so we encompass the the plaster pipe interface? Unfortunately I can not think of one off the top of my head.
will await your report on the plugging test.
Click to expand...

I cannot believe this. Bit the bullet and got the "best guys" in town for leak detection, after I already paid a ton of money to the first leak detector, and having the top tiles re-grouted. It ended up being a section way below the water line where the tile had cracked grout that was pulling in tons of dye. The leak detector guy puttied it, tested his electronic machine for leaks which showed no leaking after, and bucket test so far seems okay. So $1k total out of pocket for something for a small grout section in essence. I guess you live and learn. I want to thank EVERYONE for their input and help.
 
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