- Feb 15, 2017
- 767
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
ah ok. well, chlorine hasn't budged. I suppose that's a good thing for overnight. sigh.
I just have no clue what my pH is though. they put the chlorine in before I could test (which is normal) but normally they only add 4-5 gallons which in the past has put me at around 10-12 FC for my first test. this is craziness.As long as your pH is anywhere between 7.2-7.8 it's fine. Right now your priority is getting the FC and CYA balanced together properly to avoid algae. Chilly water will work in your favor in that regard. So either use the estimated CYA goal you projected from all the stabilizer you added, or re-test teh CYA today and go to the FC/CYA Levels to see what your FC needs to be. To answer your questions earlier, once teh stabilizer is all gone from the socks, consider your CYA goal met. But you can test about 24 hours afterwards and should be fairly close to your CYA goal.
Thanks, I do know all this and I know how to care for my pool and I have a proper test kit. I was just asking about this that they put in and what affect it might have on my water since I'm not familiar with it. I only ever had chlorine, salt, CYA, and muriatic acid to my pool. nothing else, which is why I don't know what this is. I just have never had an FC of 28 and never had 85 degrees at opening so this is a struggle!Emily, it's easy to get distracted by fancy labels and pool store talk, but when you test your own water wit a proper test kit, it's very easy to manage the water. Keep it simple. That's our goal. The link below contains recommended chemicals and levels. If it's not on those lists, it doesn't belong in the water. Like I said ....... simple.
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Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!www.troublefreepool.com
thanks it's already in, I didn't realize they put that in. I haven't tested calcium yet. I usually test it once per year as it's never been an issue.As you noted, the Burnout 3 is cal-hypo. While it increases FC, it adds calcium. So depending on your current CH level, it may be okay to use, or if your CH is elevated you may wish to stay well clear of it.
aaaaand after all this my FC is down to 14 already. OMG, why didn't I just listen. so at approx 40 CYA and 14 FC we should be ok?
I'm still too high to test ph but I'm gonna try anyway.
Testing it at only once a year...it could easily BECOME an issue. Not picking on ya'...just advising.thanks it's already in, I didn't realize they put that in. I haven't tested calcium yet. I usually test it once per year as it's never been an issue.
TA is 90.Yes, with CYA 40 youc an swim up to FC of 16. You are good.
What is your TA?
It would be helpful if you logged your test in PoolMath so we can see where things are.
As long as your TA is above 60 your pH is going to be 7 or above and you are safe to swim. EEven if your pH is high and in the 8's.
I'm in Michigan!Hopefully in FL with seasonal rain your CH isn't too bad. No major issues. But next time you run through your full set of tests you'll be able to confirm for sure.![]()
I'm at 250 right now which I seem to have every opening. how would it change with the only additons of salt, chlorine, acid, etc? Rain?Testing it at only once a year...it could easily BECOME an issue. Not picking on ya'...just advising.
thank you! and i updated my pool math now that you all know everything lolWith a TA of 90 your pH is going to be safe to swim in.
Ha ha. Looks like I need to lay off the sauce.I'm in Michigan!