Pool heater - Raypak vs Jandy

Sk8Surfr

Well-known member
May 28, 2016
102
South Florida
I am going to add a 400k btu propane heater. It's between the Raypak and a Jandy Jxi. I searched the forms and from what I can tell the Raypak is the preferred heater?

I see the Jandy as a smaller footprint - but more parts to possibly break down the line?

They're very close in price. If my system is Pentair Itntellicenter - can i hook up any heater?
 
You can control any heater with any automation including the combos you are considering. Almost all heaters are very similar in design. Jandy eliminates all warranty for DIY or online sourced. Raypak does seems to be preferred by experts here so I'd go that way with the choice you present.

Chris
 
Thanks for the reply - I didn't know if one would be more efficient than the other - if the Jandy is more efficient it might outweigh the 'possible' repairs down the road - but I really cant base it on what might happen.

Or maybe all heaters are really similar in efficiency
 
I believe there's a new standard that came out a few years ago and most that I've looked at are 83% or a tad over. There is one model that's a lot higher but also 3x the cost. Raypak has a firebox design that's a little different. Uses traditional burners at the bottom with tube sections in the box above the burners. Many others seem to use a concentric firebox with a burner tube in the center that fires down and out with tubes that circle around it. All that I've read manuals on use electronic flame sense technology instead of the old thermocouple which is safer and claims to be more reliable. It also seems to be a little more problematic for pool heaters maybe because it is very sensitive to corrosion in the grounding system. There are a lot of posts about this and it's not really that hard to fix if diagnosed properly. There are also some nuances in the details like negative pressure gas system, separate flame sense rod or combined flame sense/igniter. But they all seem to work well and have about the same amount of maintenance required. I have a Jandy Jxi and I learned way more about it than I ever wanted to about it when dealing with a lightning strike that wiped out a lot of my pool equipment. I was able to fix it with a lot of help from experts here and determination to figure it out myself. Now that I understand much more about how they're built I really think the key to long reliable life is more about maintenance, water chemistry, and proper installation than brand. A standard design heater is about $2500-$3000 and the most expensive part is the tube bundle that's about $800. A few other parts are $300 each and the rest are pretty cheap sensors. Fortunately sensors are the most common failure and very easy to diagnose. So it's not really that hard to keep any brand running a LONG time for a capable DIYer. Or have access to real good repair service that actually knows what their doing and can actually diagnose rather than trial and error it.

My $.02.

Chris
 
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I see you're in Stuart - I'm in Jupiter. The pool shop is pushing the Jandy over the Raypak - they said more guys are installing it due to less corrosion issues with the salt air....

I was reading the manual - is yours hooked up 240 or 120? I can't seem to understand why I would want to use 2 spaces in the pool automation - I don't have many left! I need to add a pressure cleaner and booster pump - and that will take up 2 spaces. And if I hook the heater up with a double pole I have no space left!

Then again maybe they can both go to the same 2 pole breaker - or maybe the booster pump should be wired to the main Pentair VSP breaker - I'll have to do some research!
 
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8,

Small world isn't it. I'd say there are more shops and builders pushing Jandy and I suspect that's because they sort of force you to do all repairs with the authorized rep which is good for business. But I also see a lot of my friends even in my development with Raypak plus a few that have Pentair. Not sure I really notice a difference in the corrosion at least on the outside.

Mine was originally hooked up as 240 v but I changed that when I went through several weeks of torment repairing everything I could do myself after a severe direct lightning strike. Cost me about $5000 total. I learned a LOT the hard way and during the process I switched to 120 v to help diagnose it. The switch was super easy and did free up a slot in the breaker section. I run my pool, irrigation pump and irrigation system all from the same box so it's a little more important for me as well. All heaters can make the change easily. Since I DIY more than most I am OK with reduced warranty for much of the pool equipment. So long as I get at least 90 days or so I can be assured it doesn't have a manufacturers defect. This works for everything but SWG and VS pumps which can have costly failures due to manufacturing defects that don't show up early.

I use a separate dedicated GFI 240 v breaker for the filter pump and the booster pump. It's required by code. I do also supply the salt chlorinator from the load side of the filter pump but to a separate relay. This gives me primary protection the salt generator isn't going to be powered up with the pump off (potentially dangerous situation). And I rely on the flow switch for secondary protection. Several of our experts advise this.

When you get a chance can you please fill out the signature? It helps people respond or comment without having to ask the same questions over and over. It's easy and here's how.

Good luck, I hope this is helpful and please do ask any additional questions you may have. We have real bonafide experts in everything here.

Chris
 
I ordered my booster and a dedicated 240 breaker for it.

I got the heater today - Jandy JXI400. Why are they pre wired for 240v? They can't consume that much energy can they? I don't see the upside of wiring it 240 vs 120.... unless I'm missing something.

Also - any reason/difference for which inlet to use? Straight or the included elbow inlet?
 
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Not sure why, I guess many are powered 240 is convenience since most IG pools have so much 240v equipment. I just used the fittings that made the piping easiest to install. Except for my lightning strike and one corroded contact problem my heater's been very reliable. The temperature sensor finally failed a couple weeks ago and was simple to replace. Just stick to good TFP practices for water balance and your heater should last a long time.

Chris
 
Glad to help. I used the fireman's switch method. It's described in the Intellicenter installation manual and the heater manual.

Chris
 

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