Pool chem basic question - just getting started

Jump to latest Follow Reply
F

fossy207

Member
Jul 4, 2019
7
Toronto, Ontario
Hi there, I have a SWG Hayward system which keeps breaking down and so I'm looking to go back to a traditional setup. In the 2 years I've had my pool, I've replaced the control board once and just went through my second cell. I've heard the Hayward cells are basically meant to last 3-5 years and no longer, so with the extra costs and maintenance I'm looking to go back to a traditional setup (rather than paying $1000 for a cell that will have a 5 year warranty, or $600 for a basic one - I'm in Canada if these prices seem high to those in the US).

Ok now onto my question. My pool guy is telling me to just get a bunch of chlorine pucks and to buy shock, and shock the pool weekly. He recommended I get both from Costco. However, as I browse through this site I see little mention of shock packs and pucks, and instead it seems everyone is using liquid chlorine. Is this an either or situation or should I be using both? I find it odd my guy made no mention of liquid chlorine and I'm wondering what best practice is.
 
Do NOT buy those chlorine pucks made by Clorox that Costco sells. They contain copper which will seriously mess up your life.
....ok, maybe not your life....but your blond hair swimmers can go green haired and the stuff stains your pool as it builds up.

Don't use any Clorox XtraBlue products.

Maddie :flower:
 
Fossy--- pucks are used mostly when the pool freezes, Hey, or when you go on Holiday, other than that they make misery. Your pool guy must be a hockey player,stick him on the other side of the blue line.
The experts here know their stuff, IF you follow their advise you will be Appy, You must make a choice to use the procedures here or from your offsides guy. Do not mix the two,
 
Thank you for all the help. When the pool is open (late April to early November) I keep the pump and SWG running 24/7, but am now thinking I should get a timer put in. I also have been pretty terrible at checking chemistry levels until several days ago when I found the following, which I assume would have contributed to early death of the cells:

Salt - 3668
FC - 3.9
PH - 8.6
TA - 120
CYA - 46

I've since been spending every spare hour reading through this site and the forums and it's been incredibly insightful.
 
None of the above should have played into the early death of the cell. Did the device tell you your salt was too high?
The device doesn't care what your FC level is- its a "stupid" device in that if its on, its on! It doesn't read your Chlorine levels.
Now SWG do have limited lifespans, so we always suggest sizing them at least 2x the pool's volume to help them last longer and insure that they make enough FC. What size cell do you have, and what size pool??

The CYA is read in a linear line- there is no "46" ....anything over 40 is read as "50".

Your FC it too low for a CYA of 50 (per chart-> FC/CYA Levels ) So get it raised up with liquid chlorine or you're inviting trouble for algae.

Maddie :flower:
 
A pH of 8.6, how did you measure that? If you have any CH in the water at all, that will scale a SWCG pretty quickly. And then cause premature failure.
 
The pool is about 17,000 gallons I believe (approx 14 ft x 29 ft and 8 ft in deep end with an overflow spa). The readings I mentioned are what I got when I took a water sample in to my local pool store. About 3.5 weeks ago I went in and had a PH reading of 8.4. I bought some of their PH reducer and put it in as directed. Went back in last week and got the reading of 8.6. Not sure why it would have increased. This time I put in half a gallon of muratic acid and yesterday got a reading of around 8.0 (using the aquachek strips). I also added a gallon of liquid chlorine last night to shock and get the FC up (this morning read 10).
Also I had a T-9 which failed on me last year (was several years old) and replaced with a slightly used T-15, which just crapped out (one side of it is working and the other side of the cell doesn't appear to be getting sufficient voltage and the readings are way low). I'm planning to get a new pro version of the T-15, the one with the extended warranty.

Thanks again and I'm extremely appreciative of all the help from you guys!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The overflow spa constantly aerates your water and drives your pH up.
Do you have automation?
Can you fill out your signature?
A proper test kit is difficult and expensive to obtain in Canada. To get a proper test kit, you can order a TF-100 Test Kit ™ and have it shipped to the nearest US border town mail drop service. Then drive over and pick it up.

Trying to use pool store testing for pool water chemistry management will fail. You are seeing that.
 
mknauss, I'm just heading out of the house but yes will fill out my signature later on. I'm not sure what you mean by automation. I do have a Goldline Controls Aqua Rite chlorine generator, that looks very similar to the one in this photo (mine just has a slightly darker background that is more grey where this one is blue)

I also have a Sta-rite T-240BP-1 sand filter.

As far as testing kits, I saw amazon.ca has the Taylor 2006c for $170. Should I grab that?
 
That test kit is great. Pricey, but great.

How do you operate the spa? Manually turn valves? Or push a button?
 
ScubaDoo said:
Curious if you've found the test kits any where cheaper that Amazon? Such a rip off when compared to USD pricing...
Click to expand...
Not really with conversion in play. $170 CAD is about $130 USD. The kit is $113 USD on Amazon right now in the us. So less than $20 difference.
 
You probably saw the K-2006 and not the K-2006c.

Edit: nope, found it at a couple sites for $99 USD. Guess I overpaid. ;D So $30 more.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply