Pondering a switch to SWG

[JFailor]

Howdy all from Bryan/College Station Texas. I am pondering making the conversation to a saltwater generator. Is this something I can do myself. I'm fairly handy. I have Hayward pumps, heater etc. Would it be best to go with a Hayward SWG or does it matter? Any advice or recommendations for or against would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Jonathan

 

[PoolGate]

It is simple just a few hours of basic plumbing and basic electric. I've done it myself.

 

[Newdude]

The only reason you need a particular brand is for automation, or for the future possibility of automation.

Larger pools narrow down the choice list with only Pentair and Circupool making 60k units, but all the brands have a 40k or 45k for you. (I'd go 3X in NY in a heartbeat, more in TX)

 

[Texas Splash]

SWG is the way to go nowadays. Happy shopping and let us know if you have any unit or install questions.

 

[Oly]

Not a difficult DIY project. Start by planning your specific electrical and plumbing needs and configurations then calculate your water chemistry adjustments with good testing before, during and after applications. Also research warranty differences between brands and any impact from a DIY install.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

www.discountsaltpools.com. has a great chart detailing features of the various systems.

Keep us posted on how it goes and which one you chose.

Maddie

 

[JFailor]

www.discountsaltpools.com. has a great chart detailing features of the various systems.

Keep us posted on how it goes and which one you chose.

Maddie

Thank you all! I'm am looking at the Circupool rj60 plus. I do not have an automation system on my pool. I just use the built in timer on my VS pump to turn the pump on in the morning and off in the evening. I have an intermatic timer for my water wall and booster pump.

Can I switch to a SWG without automation? I see the RJ has a flow switch. Do I need to run my vs pump 247? Or can it be run similarly to how it's operating now...about 10 hours a day. I appreciate all the advice this group has provided me since becoming a pool owner.

Jonathan

 

[wireform]

Good choice. You can run the vsp 24/7 and dial down the salt cell to the desired level you're looking to achieve.

Edit: looking at the pool capacity the RJ60 is much to big and won't be able to be dialed down enough without shutting it off.. I think the RJ30 would be a better fit.

 

[reggiehammond]

Can I switch to a SWG without automation? I see the RJ has a flow switch. Do I need to run my vs pump 247? Or can it be run similarly to how it's operating now...about 10 hours a day. I appreciate all the advice this group has provided me since becoming a pool owner.

You can run the SWCG via timer, just like a pump. No issue.

I prefer to run 24/7 at low RPMs. At ~1400rpms, my VSP uses ~200 watts, while constantly skimming, filtering, and making FC day and night.
It's the way to go, in my opinion.

 

[JFailor]

Good choice. You can run the vsp 24/7 and dial down the salt cell to the desired level you're looking to achieve.

Edit: looking at the pool capacity the RJ60 is much to big and won't be able to be dialed down enough without shutting it off.. I think the RJ30 would be a better fit.

Thank you. It was recommended to go 3x capacity on the SWG given the climate in Texas. I was thinking the bigger the better but maybe that's too big?

A related question to running 247 on low rpm...I'm not opposed to that and like the idea of skimming night and day but when the pump runs very low the heater won't come on. I don't need it often but we like to use it to extend our season as long as we can. Appreciate everyone's thoughts and feedback.

 

[reggiehammond]

No arguments from me for 3x. Lower upfront cost relative to amount of FC it can create over its lifetime.

Regarding heater, you can run higher RPM’s by schedule, or all the time, when you need to satisfy heater flow requirements. No issue there.

 

[Newdude]

but when the pump runs very low the heater won't come on.

So you bump the RPMs to heat, like you would have run at that speed anyway, then go back to low RPMs for the rest of the time.

I was thinking the bigger the better but maybe that's too big?

So the cell should last for 10k hours of FC production. A 1x cell needs to run 24/7 to produce enough FC. A 2X produces the same FC in 12 hours, doubling the lifespan. A 3X produces the same in 8 hours, tripling the 1X lifespan. You have long seasons and will reach your 10k hours much sooner than me in NY, if we buy the same model.

Now let's talk friendly maths. I'll use Pentair as an example but they're all similar.

IC20 $929
IC40 $1049
IC60 $1349.

The IC40 is a steal with two times the life for 13% more cost. It's literally like buying your next 20k unit at 87% off. It would be a little over 3X for you and perfect.

The ic60 math still works too, and people do have 5X and 6X here. But at some point you expect the electronics to fail before the production plates are used up. So going that large is a gamble to an extent.

 

[midlifecrisis]

Thank you. It was recommended to go 3x capacity on the SWG given the climate in Texas. I was thinking the bigger the better but maybe that's too big?

A related question to running 247 on low rpm...I'm not opposed to that and like the idea of skimming night and day but when the pump runs very low the heater won't come on. I don't need it often but we like to use it to extend our season as long as we can. Appreciate everyone's thoughts and feedback.

For what it’s worth, I just added one to my new pool. I bought the IC40 and have a slightly smaller pool than you. I’ve been running at about 25% since installing but actually bumped to 30% this evening in preparation for the temp spike tomorrow for the rest of the season. No complains here on the size and I run my pump 24/7 at 1200RPM which is 113W. Whatever you decide, you won’t regret it.
I don’t.

 

[JFailor]

So you bump the RPMs to heat, like you would have run at that speed anyway, then go back to low RPMs for the rest of the time.

So the cell should last for 10k hours of FC production. A 1x cell needs to run 24/7 to produce enough FC. A 2X produces the same FC in 12 hours, doubling the lifespan. A 3X produces the same in 8 hours, tripling the 1X lifespan. You have long seasons and will reach your 10k hours much sooner than me in NY, if we buy the same model.

Now let's talk friendly maths. I'll use Pentair as an example but they're all similar.

IC20 $929
IC40 $1049
IC60 $1349.

The IC40 is a steal with two times the life for 13% more cost. It's literally like buying your next 20k unit at 87% off. It would be a little over 3X for you and perfect.

The ic60 math still works too, and people do have 5X and 6X here. But at some point you expect the electronics to fail before the production plates are used up. So going that large is a gamble to an extent.

Thank you so much for this analysis! This is really helpful.

 

[Newdude]

Thank you so much for this analysis! This is really helpful.

Anytime.

Also wanted to clarify the example used was for the cell only. You will also need the $500 power supply for any of those units. The power supply should last several cells.

 

[PoolStored]

@Newdude is right, but you can get the RJ-60+ for $10 more than the RJ-45.

The Circupool RJ-60 has been a tank (robust) for me. I would buy in a heartbeat again. This price includes the power supply.

Promo here...(I have no vested interest in Circupool)

CircuPool RJ-45 PLUS Saltwater Chlorinator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

 

[JFailor]

Another question regarding the salt switch. I've read the advice against salt if you have any metal around the pool or natural stone coping tiles. I have 3 copper plated scuppers on my water wall. I don't run them all the time. Really only when the kids want to play in them, we want the ambiance or temps are dipping below freezing. I also have travertine coping tile. Are these scare tactics or will the low quantities of salt in the water cause advanced corrosion?

Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

Are these scare tactics or will the low quantities of salt in the water cause advanced corrosion?

Completely unfounded. The saline level is pools is extremely low. Corrosion issues in pools is most commonly related to the product itself, regardless if salt was added or not. In fact, many traditional liquid chlorine pools have an elevated saline content from other other products without even realizing it. There are literal hundreds of thousands of salt pools in the country with no issues at all.

 

[Newdude]

Are these scare tactics or will the low quantities of salt in the water cause advanced corrosion?

It's just plain ignorance. My pool light trim was day 1 shiny on year 8.5 when we moved, being submerged the whole time. Yet $4 solar lights and cheapo stepping stones from WalMart didn't last the 2 month summer in the *front* yard.

If you say salt water, everyone loses their minds. But you have a pool which will run 10% of seawater salinity instead of the usual 5%-7%. It's a non issue but an easy out to defend poor quality metals/stone, that would have broke down in the elements anyway.

 

[PoolGate]

Another question regarding the salt switch. I've read the advice against salt if you have any metal around the pool or natural stone coping tiles. I have 3 copper plated scuppers on my water wall. I don't run them all the time. Really only when the kids want to play in them, we want the ambiance or temps are dipping below freezing. I also have travertine coping tile. Are these scare tactics or will the low quantities of salt in the water cause advanced corrosion?

Thanks!

Non "saltwater" pool = 1000-2000ppm salt
Saltwater pool = 3000ppm salt
Ocean = 35000ppm salt