Pond Pool

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Dunkinpool

Dunkinpool

Member
May 15, 2020
22
Bauxite, Arkansas
Just got our 1st pool It is a 33' AGP approximately 27,000 gal. We are on a well. So we filled the pool from our pond. Needless to say it is brown. I tested it and the only thing that registered was a ph of 6.2. I took a sample to the local pool place the next day for help. (Don't judge). The guy wouldn't even test the water because he knew what it was. He told me to start a 24 hr regime of 3 bags of shock, 3 chlorine tablets, and 3 caps of yellow Klear. Well after day 2 it might be a little lighter brown...maybe. The guy was arrogant. I was begging for help. He rambled real fast and then as I tried writing it down, told me there were several other customers there. I should have left the $170 worth of additional chemicals (not to mention the $6,600 for the pool) and walked out, but I needed to try something. Any thoughts? I tried the pool calculator initially, but it doesn't take into account the pond water and algae. I have read so much that I am confused. I don't even know if I'm going the right direction.20200516_095334.jpg
 
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No the pond and well are not supplied by the same source. I was looking at purchasing a test kit. I got a bottle of strips and that's it with our pool starter pkg. I asked about a test kit the same day and was told the strips are all you need. No what I need is a computer to pour water in and for it to say...do this!? I will order a kit now.
 
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First, let me welcome you to TFP!

Since it just came up as I was typing, yes, the TF-100 has everything you will need. Though with that kind of water to clear the XL option might be worthwhile. A lot of people also love the speedstir, though I'm not one of them. I have the wrist movement down and it is just easier for me overall.

Do you have any idea how much Yellow Klear you added? Like in ounces or cups? That product is one I really hate because it is nothing but sodium bromide, the same stuff you add to a pool or spa to make it bromine instead of chlorine. It could be useful in a pool with a very high CYA level (though there are far better solutions), but in a brand new fill it is literally worthless and can cause a chronic problem requiring a water change to correct. That's why I'm wondering how much you added, it might already be a good idea to replace some water to get it out of your pool...
 
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I added 3 cap fulls each day for the last 2 days. Basically the whole bottle. It said it was a 2 lb bottle but was 1/2 full. (Maybe thats how it was supposed to be.) That's awesome! Just what I wanted to hear. I did a test strip late this p.m. don't know why...just curious...and the ph was still 6.2 and the free chlorine was up from 0 to 3.
This is going to drive me crazy and I just started.
 
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You already ordered your test kit, so that is a great first step.

Do you know what kind of filter you have? That will filter out the sediment, etc from the water, but will also need lots of backwashing/cleaning. Add what type you have to your signature (sand, DE, cartridge, etc).

At the same time your filter is working, you need to follow the SLAM process (link below). That will kill the algae in your water. It will probably take a week or two, but it works. While you are waiting on your test kit, find a good source for liquid chlorine. I suggest Walmart Pool Essentials (white bottle, ~$3.50 gallon), but you can get it from Home Depot, Lowes, and most hardware stores. You are going to need a lot with that size of pool and the general state of it, so I would grab 10-15 bottles.

Good luck and we will have you swimming in no time.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Two pounds would give you about a 6 ppm bromide bank. That's quite a bit for a chlorine pool... Essentially that 3 ppm of FC you measured (not that I trust strips, but as an example) would actually be entirely bromine.

I would dump the water if it were me. Consider it a learning experience to the incompetence and shadiness of pool stores, something to remember the next time you are tempted to get testing or advice from one.
 
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Ok. So he had me buy a box of shock (24 bags). I have 20 gal of bleach...for stand by I guess. Bought that prior to starting this. So I need to stop adding the shock? I'm telling y'all...I know nothing. He also told me not to vacuum or backwash until it was blue. My husband back washed today and it was nasty brown. I am so confused because I am hearing 3 different suggestions. I appreciate the replies .I can follow directions easily...but not when I have 2 or more completely different suggestions. It really upsets me that the pool place can't be trusted. Uuugghh
 
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I don't believe you are getting 3 different suggestions.

You will need a test kit. You will need to follow the SLAM Process once you get it. However, I am just offering a step that is going to save a lot of trouble going forward. I'm not seeing a conflict.
 
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I think you just have to make a decision on the following options:

1. Keep the existing water, follow the SLAM advice. My guess is it will take ~2 weeks of testing, brushing/vacuuming, backwashing.
2. Replace the water. You are still likely going to have to SLAM, but not as long as in #1.
3. Follow the pool store advice.

For the bags of shock, dont get rid of them and you can even use them during your SLAM. You just have to know what extra they are adding to your pool besides chlorine (like calcium, CYA, etc.).
 
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Sorry...I was referring to what the pool store told me vs what I am hearing here. So do I drain it down and start again or start slamming what I have? Also my test strips only show FC. I don't know how to figure out the slam without the CYA. I think I have read so much until I am completely confused. I started reading before the pool was installed bc I was worried about this specific thing. I need Taking Care of a Pool for Dummies book.
 
In the meantime, I would add a gallon of your liquid chlorine daily (adds 3.7 FC). Since you have it, you could alternate liquid one day, shock the next. What type of shock is it? I'm assuming Cal-hypo, hopefully nothing with Blue in the name.
 
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Try to mainly use the liquid chlorine (adds 3.7 FC assuming it is 10% strength). The Cal Hypo will add slightly less, plus add calcium. You have it already so not the end of the world. Just make sure your future purchases for the SLAM are liquid chlorine.
 
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Iron test is the one test we suggest you get at a pool store. The test is pretty expensive.
Do you have iron staining in your home? Do you use this water in your home? Do you have a water softener / conditioner for your home?
 

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