Plumbing re-work and cleanup from installer

[parkead]

Hey everybody! I'm working on converting my set up to salt installing an IC60, in doing so evaluating my plumbing. It's my first pool so I didn't really notice these things when it was being installed. Here is what I'd like to get some thoughts on, I've attached a picture and updated my sig with my equipment.

1. I THINK the slide valve is on the wrong side of the plumbing. Should this be on the return side? Currently the return valves operate the returns and deck jets. I'm thinking I need to re-work this but not quite sure how. Maybe come out of the return with a 3 way that flows water to the slide AND to the next 3 way that operates the deck jets and returns??
2. The heater doesn't have a bypass - is this necessary?
3. All of my plumbing is 1.5" at the pad and all the way to the pool - if I'm re-plumbing any of this, should I consider upgrading anything at the pad to 2"?

Thanks so much for the thoughts!

 

[HermanTX]

I THINK the slide valve is on the wrong side of the plumbing. Should this be on the return side? Currently the return valves operate the returns and deck jets. I'm thinking I need to re-work this but not quite sure how. Maybe come out of the return with a 3 way that flows water to the slide AND to the next 3 way that operates the deck jets and returns??

It appears your slide is directly plumbed from the pump via the "tee" fitting. It then has a blue valve on it to turn it on or off. The PB probably did this to increase the flowrate to the slide (without have to add a separate pump). It is basically just circulating the water direct from the pool then to the slide back to the pool. I would not change it because your flowrate after the filter may not be sufficient.

The heater doesn't have a bypass - is this necessary?

Not a requirement. Some find it nice to have but many (most) do not have a heater bypass.

All of my plumbing is 1.5" at the pad and all the way to the pool - if I'm re-plumbing any of this, should I consider upgrading anything at the pad to 2"?

I see no reason to change it as it will not provide much more efficiency. Especially if you do not have to plump anything but your new SWCG which will be put directly before your value on the return.

 

[parkead]

It appears your slide is directly plumbed from the pump via the "tee" fitting. It then has a blue valve on it to turn it on or off. The PB probably did this to increase the flowrate to the slide (without have to add a separate pump). It is basically just circulating the water direct from the pool then to the slide back to the pool. I would not change it because your flowrate after the filter may not be sufficient.


Not a requirement. Some find it nice to have but many (most) do not have a heater bypass.


I see no reason to change it as it will not provide much more efficiency. Especially if you do not have to plump anything but your new SWCG which will be put directly before your value on the return.

@HermanTX , Thank you so much for the reply!

That blue valve for the slide is darn difficult to turn, to the point of feeling like I'm going to snap the plumbing. Would a 2 way Jandy valve, similar to my others, be a better solution?

Really appreciate it

 

[HermanTX]

That blue valve for the slide is darn difficult to turn, to the point of feeling like I'm going to snap the plumbing. Would a 2 way Jandy valve, similar to my others, be a better solution?

Oh yes! The never-lube valves would be much better. Also, in the future you could install an controller on top of it and automate it rather than manually turn it. Those blue valves can be very difficult at times. Fortunately the plumber did put a union right below the blue valve, so it should be fairly easy to only make the one cut above the valve and replace with a Jandy valve.
Also, if ever needed, you can repair a Jandy valve whereas the blue valve is a throwaway if it breaks or leaks.

 

[parkead]

Oh yes! The never-lube valves would be much better. Also, in the future you could install an controller on top of it and automate it rather than manually turn it. Those blue valves can be very difficult at times. Fortunately the plumber did put a union right below the blue valve, so it should be fairly easy to only make the one cut above the valve and replace with a Jandy valve.
Also, if ever needed, you can repair a Jandy valve whereas the blue valve is a throwaway if it breaks or leaks.

Awesome. That sounds exactly like what I want to do!

You mentioned the IC60 will be located right before the return. Is that ok being so close to the valve? Instructions only indicate a straight pipe of like 12” before it...