Did an Overnight FC loss test. Went to bed at 10pm with a FC reading of 18. Woke up and tested at 6AM with a FC reading of 9...... I added 2 more gallons into the pool and it is circulating now.
The real answer is, yes, you can, but the best answer is NO, you do not want to.Is it okay to stop the SLAM process early?
You need to remove the light (with it off) & scrub the niche, also remove the drain cover & scrub the “bowl” that is beneath it. They both can hold lots of stuff. If u take a close pic of the light & the drain we can assist on how to remove them.I have removed the ladder and scrubbed it. No algae. Skimmer boxes are fully clean. Brushed fully around the light and the bottom jet.
Pink algae is a growth of pink, slimey bacterial matter which can sometimes occur in pools and laboratory equipment. The name is a misnomer, because pink algae is not a true algae but is actually caused by a bacterium in the genus Methylobacterium. The color of the bacterial growth comes from pigments within its cells. The slime formed around the bacteria provides it with a relatively high level of protection from external threats. Like other species in its genus, pink algae is a methane consuming bacterium.[1] It has an affinity for the matrix of PVC plastics, and will attach itself to both the inside and the outside of PVC materials inside of the pool. Pink algae infestation in a pool often occurs alongside an infestation of white water mold.[Can anyone tell me what is growing on the skimmer area and the baskets. This happened at a time that the pool chlorine dropped to 2ppm. I have ordered some PhosFree that I will try out. I have a high iron issue in the water as well that results in constant re staining of my steps. I have been using The Pink Stuff for the metal staining on a weekly basis.
Pool is Vinyl Chlorine 16,000 gallons. DE Filter and Hayward chlorinator.
My latest test is below using the kit purchased on this site:
7/19/22
Ph 7.5
Calcium 120ppm
Free chlorine 6.5ppm
Chloramines 0ppm
Total chlorine 6.5ppm
Alkalinity 120ppm
The fc is working on it slowly… if u want it to end quickly you need to disrupt the biofilms with elbow greaseIf this is true, and the chlorine is not able to get to them, why is Free Chlorine being consumed constantly during this SLAM process? I am not going to be able to remove the bottom jet. The water is too chlorinated to get into the pool and try to swim down there and do that. I can try to remove the light. It is a Pentair IntelliBrite light.
There are many reasons chlorine can be consumed beyond what you are treating. The info says "a relatively high level of protection from external threats," not that it is invulnerable.If this is true, and the chlorine is not able to get to them, why is Free Chlorine being consumed constantly during this SLAM process? I am not going to be able to remove the bottom jet. The water is too chlorinated to get into the pool and try to swim down there and do that. I can try to remove the light. It is a Pentair IntelliBrite light.
Your robot is also a possible hiding place for algae, especially if it has stayed in your pool between cleaning cycles. While keeping an elevated FC is important, finding and scrubbing all these hiding places is what's ultimately going to end this SLAM for you. Keep in mind, while blasting with water may dislodge some nasties, those areas still need a good scrubbing as well. Are you able to get the cover off your floor drain and take a peek in there? I'd keep the ladder out, as well as the robot (between cleaning cycles), to eliminate them as even possible sources. It's a process of elimination, so remove as many variables as you can and take the time to thoroughly scrub each area and know it's spotless. We all know it stinks, but it's the only way this SLAM will end.Okay sounds good. I will try keep scrubbing and brushing.
Check this out -->>FC/CYA LevelsAll sources state that FC should be 5ppm or lower for safety.
"ALL SOURCES"? With a CYA level of 50, the FC/CYA chart shows your FC should REGULARLY be between 6-8, 4 being the minimum. You are safe to swim up to SLAM level (20) . Plenty of people on here with crystal clear pools, no itchy skin, burning eyes who run their FC above 5. They've been doing it for years. As of last night's test, my FC is 8.5. I'll admit, before coming to TFP, I thought there was no way it was safe to run your chlorine above 4 based on "sources" and pool store advice. I'd urge you to do your own research on the CYA/FC relationship to better understand what's going on in your pool. My third summer TFP'ing.......nobody smells chlorine in my pool, nobody has any irritations, nobody's swim suits are fading, nobody has grown an additional appendage.All sources state that FC should be 5ppm or lower for safety.
I think it takes some time to settle into the TFP methods and maybe this is one of the last misconceptions you will get past from previous advice. Before TFP, you probably would have been battling this with the advice from a pool store, and maybe finally just drained the whole thing and started over because nothing was working. Before TFP, the misconception was it is unsafe to be in the pool with chlorine levels above, lets just say 5. But if you finally settle in to the protocols taught here, and leave all the other sources behind, you will find a TFP in your extended future. It is hard to mix old teachings and the TFP way, it really is. Take some advice from here, then some from there, and maybe all put together they work, but just TFP works very well.All sources state that FC should be 5ppm or lower for safety.