You also need to take the pucks out. Off can still allow some cya and fc to leak out. You can set them out to dry and save them for later for weekend get aways!
Kim
Kim
Please Help-Green, Hazy Water and Zero Free Chlorine since 5/18/15 =-(
- Thread starter JenMazz
- Start date
Read up a bit more on the TFP way...Pucks increase CYA, adding 6 ppm cya for every 10 pm of FC added... so then your sanitation level required is a moving target. Complicates things. Check out the chlorine:cya link in my signature to understand both regular and slam FC levels.
Secondly, using pucks interferes with the observations in testing that make te whole TFP thing work...eg you don't know how much FC youre losing over time...you cannot assess correctly OCLT, and if your CYA is raising, your slam level could be ineffective for progress so you can stall/winking in the dark, etc.
Lastly, pucks eventually build up CYA to a level that can render FC virtually ineffective unless at uber high doses almost impossible to maintain.
None of this adds up to "Trouble Free." Life will be much easier after this learning curve you're on trust me. But you WILL nail it if you invest just an extra bit of study
Secondly, using pucks interferes with the observations in testing that make te whole TFP thing work...eg you don't know how much FC youre losing over time...you cannot assess correctly OCLT, and if your CYA is raising, your slam level could be ineffective for progress so you can stall/winking in the dark, etc.
Lastly, pucks eventually build up CYA to a level that can render FC virtually ineffective unless at uber high doses almost impossible to maintain.
None of this adds up to "Trouble Free." Life will be much easier after this learning curve you're on trust me. But you WILL nail it if you invest just an extra bit of study
Thanks, FC is 30x.5 = 15 and CC is 0.
I am cleaning out the filter now from the brown stuff and also will add 85 oz of bleach.
Jen
I am cleaning out the filter now from the brown stuff and also will add 85 oz of bleach.
Jen
I took apart the filter, drained it, watered out the brown stuff as much as I could and scooped some out too. Put the bleach in the pool, turned on the pump. We'll see how it looks in the AM. Praying it is ok!
Thanks
Jen
Thanks
Jen
Update:
FC = 50x.5=25 ppm
CC = 0
Brown stuff showed up in pool again. Going to try to get it out of pool.
Not adding anything - will test again in a couple hrs. On my second bottle of 0871 - I'll have to order more now so I don't run out.
Thanks, Jen (At least is seems swim-able now....kids are dying to go swimming)
FC = 50x.5=25 ppm
CC = 0
Brown stuff showed up in pool again. Going to try to get it out of pool.
Not adding anything - will test again in a couple hrs. On my second bottle of 0871 - I'll have to order more now so I don't run out.
Thanks, Jen (At least is seems swim-able now....kids are dying to go swimming)
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7749_zpsz28tkcdz.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7748_zps6pi6trzg.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7750_zpsomgroam0.jpg
Thoughts on how it looks? I brushed the pool again - can't seem to get rid of that brown stuff.
Current counts:
42x.5=21
CC=0
Thank you!
Photos and video of brown stuff from skimmer.
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7753_zpsypmkepp0.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7756_zpstah5cel3.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww258/jenmazz/IMG_7752_zps81hrpixv.jpg
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<embed width="640" height="1136" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="direct" src="[object Url]" flashvars="file=[object Url]"&os=0&ap=0
Not sure if video worked in posting from photobucket
Update Sunday AM: 35x.5=17.5 and CC = 0
Adding 43 oz of bleach
Thanks! We are going to Ohio shortly - any thoughts on what to do with pool? I can set the timer on it but won't be home to put in chemicals.
Thanks
Jen
You could test before you leave and bump the FC a bit higher with the add since you will be gone all day. If 20 is your target for SLAM right now. Then target 26-28 if it is hot and sunny out. Then check it when you get home.
THANK YOU, I will do that! Will be gone 5 days total (back on 5th day)
If you are going to begone 5 days you may want to bump it to 30. You will want to leave your pump running. May want to remove sock from skimmer though since no one is around to check it.
New counts:
30x.5 = 15
CC = 0
Adding 85 oz bleach.....
How long is this going to take - the SLAM process? Till I change out the sand? I can't seem to get ahead of whatever this issue is. =-(
Thanks
Jen
30x.5 = 15
CC = 0
Adding 85 oz bleach.....
How long is this going to take - the SLAM process? Till I change out the sand? I can't seem to get ahead of whatever this issue is. =-(
Thanks
Jen
Hi Jen. I realize you ay have left for Ohio now but I've just reviewed a few things in this long thread and have a few question/comments for future consideration:
1. Your last reported cya reading was 50 BUT somewhere in there you were using pucks subsequently. When you get back at this, we'll need a fresh cya reading to see how much cya those pucks added.
You may not be slamming to a high enough ppM for your kill zone -- because 20 is regular slam for cya of 50.
Lots of times you're reporting drops down to 15 etc. before you dose again. That is prolonging the slam.
So, since we don't know what the Brown stuff is and since your pool has not been riding at 30 or above the whole time AND you've been adding cya, when you get ack, I would suggest re-reading your cya and then slamming near MUSTARD shock level for a fe days to see if you can finally pass the OCLT.
2. I have a theory about your brown goo. I feel like it could be flocculant that might have been used, by you before this thread, or by the previous owner in a "floc and shock gotta sell this house" water cleanup. Normally, floc is vacuumed to waste. But if someone instead just ran the filter, it might explain the layer of goo in your filter. The turquoise would possibly be metals collected from the water by the floc.
Since you have sand on the way, when you get back, lets see if changing out the sand eliminates the goo.
3. Before you started this thread and got a test kit, I believe there may have been super aggressive water from uber high chlorine levels. Its possible, though not certain, that you have some trace metals in your water that are adding to the tint. Once you pass the OCLT and we know organics are handled, if the water still has a tint but is super clear, there are some products that can clear the tint. Don't wanna get too far ahead when your focus needs to be passing the OCLT so don't add anything or worry about it yet...just want you to know that if you pass the OCLT two nights in a row and the clarity is there and the brown stuff is gone but there's still a "hue" to the water there is an avenue to address same.
So, how long it will take to get to passing the OCLT is going to depend on how consistently you can find a way to stay at/above your correct FC level for your CYA. In ideal conditions, it should be soon
1. Your last reported cya reading was 50 BUT somewhere in there you were using pucks subsequently. When you get back at this, we'll need a fresh cya reading to see how much cya those pucks added.
You may not be slamming to a high enough ppM for your kill zone -- because 20 is regular slam for cya of 50.
Lots of times you're reporting drops down to 15 etc. before you dose again. That is prolonging the slam.
So, since we don't know what the Brown stuff is and since your pool has not been riding at 30 or above the whole time AND you've been adding cya, when you get ack, I would suggest re-reading your cya and then slamming near MUSTARD shock level for a fe days to see if you can finally pass the OCLT.
2. I have a theory about your brown goo. I feel like it could be flocculant that might have been used, by you before this thread, or by the previous owner in a "floc and shock gotta sell this house" water cleanup. Normally, floc is vacuumed to waste. But if someone instead just ran the filter, it might explain the layer of goo in your filter. The turquoise would possibly be metals collected from the water by the floc.
Since you have sand on the way, when you get back, lets see if changing out the sand eliminates the goo.
3. Before you started this thread and got a test kit, I believe there may have been super aggressive water from uber high chlorine levels. Its possible, though not certain, that you have some trace metals in your water that are adding to the tint. Once you pass the OCLT and we know organics are handled, if the water still has a tint but is super clear, there are some products that can clear the tint. Don't wanna get too far ahead when your focus needs to be passing the OCLT so don't add anything or worry about it yet...just want you to know that if you pass the OCLT two nights in a row and the clarity is there and the brown stuff is gone but there's still a "hue" to the water there is an avenue to address same.
So, how long it will take to get to passing the OCLT is going to depend on how consistently you can find a way to stay at/above your correct FC level for your CYA. In ideal conditions, it should be soon
Hi Jen. I realize you ay have left for Ohio now but I've just reviewed a few things in this long thread and have a few question/comments for future consideration:
1. Your last reported cya reading was 50 BUT somewhere in there you were using pucks subsequently. When you get back at this, we'll need a fresh cya reading to see how much cya those pucks added.
You may not be slamming to a high enough ppM for your kill zone -- because 20 is regular slam for cya of 50.
Lots of times you're reporting drops down to 15 etc. before you dose again. That is prolonging the slam.
So, since we don't know what the Brown stuff is and since your pool has not been riding at 30 or above the whole time AND you've been adding cya, when you get ack, I would suggest re-reading your cya and then slamming near MUSTARD shock level for a fe days to see if you can finally pass the OCLT.
2. I have a theory about your brown goo. I feel like it could be flocculant that might have been used, by you before this thread, or by the previous owner in a "floc and shock gotta sell this house" water cleanup. Normally, floc is vacuumed to waste. But if someone instead just ran the filter, it might explain the layer of goo in your filter. The turquoise would possibly be metals collected from the water by the floc.
Since you have sand on the way, when you get back, lets see if changing out the sand eliminates the goo.
3. Before you started this thread and got a test kit, I believe there may have been super aggressive water from uber high chlorine levels. Its possible, though not certain, that you have some trace metals in your water that are adding to the tint. Once you pass the OCLT and we know organics are handled, if the water still has a tint but is super clear, there are some products that can clear the tint. Don't wanna get too far ahead when your focus needs to be passing the OCLT so don't add anything or worry about it yet...just want you to know that if you pass the OCLT two nights in a row and the clarity is there and the brown stuff is gone but there's still a "hue" to the water there is an avenue to address same.
So, how long it will take to get to passing the OCLT is going to depend on how consistently you can find a way to stay at/above your correct FC level for your CYA. In ideal conditions, it should be soon
Thank YOU SOOOOO much for explaining all this!!!! We leave Wed AM. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to write out your thoughts! I've never used floc, nor what it is - I've seen it in the store though. Could be that the previous owner did to sell - good assumption - he was for sale for a while and had already moved but pool was open when we previewed the house.
What you wrote is exactly what I needed to know/hear/understand. Thank you!!! I appreciate your observations too in the trends. (a lot) b/c I don't know what they mean but they must mean something. I'm going to test now and then have to run to work. Thank you thank you
FC = 40x.5 = 20
CC = 0
Not adding anything
Hi there ..I just noticed a stupid error in my ipadian post: I meant because up your FC hasn't been close or at "20" not "30" as I wrote
To make sure I'm clear:
If your CYA is 50, dosing to and staying at 20 is regular "shock/slam number" but for mustard algae it CAN be up to 29. ( this info is in pool calculator).
So if you dose to somewhere between the two, so that there's still 20 next time you dose, you will be staying above your "kill zone" and outpacing algae. -- but NOT going over the mustard shock level of 29.
If it turns out your CYA is more like 60 from the extra pucks, then a new set of numbers need to be taken from the pool calculator to find the safe-but-kill-zone range. Eg if CYA is 60, then regular shock/lam until passing OCLT would be 24 ppm, with a limit of 34 Mustard algae shock level (eg, stay under the mustard level).
Hope that helps you get to the end of the slam quicker when you get back...or if your able, even before if you check your cya and start dosing a bit above you reg shock/slam ppm now, and do OCLT tonight and tomorrow.
To make sure I'm clear:
If your CYA is 50, dosing to and staying at 20 is regular "shock/slam number" but for mustard algae it CAN be up to 29. ( this info is in pool calculator).
So if you dose to somewhere between the two, so that there's still 20 next time you dose, you will be staying above your "kill zone" and outpacing algae. -- but NOT going over the mustard shock level of 29.
If it turns out your CYA is more like 60 from the extra pucks, then a new set of numbers need to be taken from the pool calculator to find the safe-but-kill-zone range. Eg if CYA is 60, then regular shock/lam until passing OCLT would be 24 ppm, with a limit of 34 Mustard algae shock level (eg, stay under the mustard level).
Hope that helps you get to the end of the slam quicker when you get back...or if your able, even before if you check your cya and start dosing a bit above you reg shock/slam ppm now, and do OCLT tonight and tomorrow.
HI. given the complications with your CHlor testing could you post the exact process you used for the CYA just so extra eyes can check you git the right procedure.