Please help 3 week old pool and its green but the numbers look good.

Ok, here is a friday morning quiz. :)

What is your CYA?
What is your FC target for SLAM?
How often are you testing FC and adding more bleach?
How often are you brushing?
Have you scrubbed or removed everything like lights, ladders, cleaners?
 
How often are you able to raise the FC to shock level? The longer you are able to keep the FC at shock level the quicker the slam will progress. Brush and vacuum to waste daily if possible. When the pool was started do you know if an algaecide was added? Some algaecides contain copper and can discolor the water when chlorine is added. Sequestrant can remove the discoloration but it needs to be replenished regularly to keep the metals in suspension. You can get rid of copper by draining and refilling the pool with copper free water. By vacuuming to waste and topping off you will be changing out some of the water. Once your slam is completed we can see if there is still a problem with possible metals in the water.
 
Ok, here is a friday morning quiz.

What is your CYA?
30
What is your FC target for SLAM?
12
How often are you testing FC and adding more bleach?
morning, afternoon, night
How often are you brushing?
once a day
Have you scrubbed or removed everything like lights, ladders, cleaners?
no

No algaecide was added as I am the installer of the pool and I filled it myself. The only things added to the pool are bleach, cyanuric acid, and metal out from the pool store. I backwashed for the first time yesterday, as that was the only time I saw a +5psi rise.

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Now that my tests are confirming algae. I am confident that the slam will do the trick. I was confused before because my pool looked terrible and I was passing OCLT and had no CC.
 
It will work (SLAM). Stay with it! During your 3 FC tests, if you find the FC was significantly lower than 12, you have two options: check more often, or add a little more bleach to prevent it from falling below 12 before you check again. That will help keep your SLAM on schedule. Of course clean all those little niches noted above, and you'll be fine. Have a nice weekend!
 
If you take a picture of your water around the same time every day looking down the ladder or steps into the pool and compare them it will be easier for you to see progress. Often we have members comment on slamming several days and seeing no change, but when they take daily pictures they can see the subtle changes in water quality day by day.
 

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I don't understand why my slam has shown no improvement when they're aren't leaves or dirty or junk in the pool, it was just filled a month ago. I can barely see the bottom still.

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My ph is 7.5, should I adjust to 7.2?

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Should I raise to mustard algae levels?
 
PH doesn't test properly when FC is above 10 so don't worry about testing anything by FC and CC for the duration of the SLAM. It will work...patience!!!
 
From the looks of this thread, you've been at a SLAM for about 5 days now correct? It can be slow for some, but you should start to see "some" minimal changes in the water. The pace of that improvement depends on the severity of the water/algae. Another important factor is the consistency of the FC level at or slightly above SLAM/Shock level 24/7, and the ability to scrub/sweep pool surfaces and clean/backwash filter as required. Bleach is a great sanitizer if done in this manner. However the one thing I've seen happen more than once by some pool owners is that their CYA is wrong (higher than they thought). They are certain their CYA is at a certain level (i.e. 40) when actually it is higher (50). Then what happens is they are never at the proper (higher) FC level for their SLAM and the SLAM takes much longer to take effect. Not questioning your CYA testing, just saying I've seen it happen many times. If you don't start to see "some" positive improvement or changes in the water soon following all the standard advice provided above, you might consider another CYA test to ensure you are at the right FC level. Good luck!
 
I never saw where you had any indication of metals in your pool... Other than the fact that you saw some improvement after adding the metal magic-- but what made you think to add it in the first place?

I know there was a lot of assumption (it seemed, to me) that you had iron in your water... But if you used tap water to fill your pool (and it didn't go thru a softener/r.o. system) then if you had iron in your water, you'd see evidence in your toilet tanks-- they would be rust/brown colored...

I just wanted to try to bring the focus back around to the start, and before you put anything else besides bleach in your pool, you need to know why... Not just that it was "the only thing that's given you some hope"... Because it may have been a coincidence that you saw brief improvement...
:testresults: and other relevant info, i.e. Metals tests, etc and let's think everything through again...

The "trouble free way" does work for everyone... But sometimes something unusual obscures the path temporarily... But with patience and persistence, it will all work out for the best.
 
Straight6tt, please consider the following possibility and see if it lines up with your treatment timeline:

1. When you first added chlorine to the fresh water and it turned clear green, with purple ch test, you very likely had oxidized iron or copper. Algae does not turn up instantaneously from a tap.

The purple end point to me confirms metals, city water or not.

2. By not adding enough chlorine while trying to figure out the tint, it THEN turned cloudy from algae

OR it turned cloudy from the Metal Free, which might work like Metal Magic in that sequestrant CAN cause a few days of cloudiness as the metals bond to calcium that is then filtered out.

And THEN got algae from low chlorine. (do you actually see any algae?)

So...you cannot/should not treat for metals when you shock/slam, and, according to Metal Magic, you should not shock/slam a week before or a week after.

SO finish the slam, pass the OCLT, BUT if your water is still tinted (your filter might actually clear the majority of it) but CLEAR then use a larger dose of Metal Magic (which you already ordered) until the tint is gone...but remember when you use it that it can make your water cloudy for a few days, so don't turn around and immediately slam again ;)

Another thing you might try DURING the Slam is to enhance your filtration with a Slimebag, which may "catch" some of the oxidized metals: The Slime Bag | The Easiest Way To Maintain Crystal Clear Pool Water.

Any of the metal that gets filtered out now will help down the road.

Hope that helps. Once you're sorted out, avoid needing to slam by always maintaining the cya:FC ratio -- so you don't oxidize more metal.
 
Here's a link to a YouTube video about metals that shows the calcium test color when there's metal contamination...its at about 1:20 in. Tell us if that's what your test looked like ;) thx!
Metal in Pool Water, How to Treat and Eliminate Metal - YouTube

P.s. if you watch the whole video, I should mention that I don't use the products he does...and that Metal Magic while being a phosphonic acid like he recommends does not require lowering the ph (which is in part why I prefer it) and that the "low chlorine" advice is only meant for application, not ongoingly. This guy is a pool tech, so his methods aren't/can't be TFP since he only sees a pool once a week ;)
 
Straight6tt, please consider the following possibility and see if it lines up with your treatment timeline:

1. When you first added chlorine to the fresh water and it turned clear green, with purple ch test, you very likely had oxidized iron or copper. Algae does not turn up instantaneously from a tap.

The purple end point to me confirms metals, city water or not.

2. By not adding enough chlorine while trying to figure out the tint, it THEN turned cloudy from algae

OR it turned cloudy from the Metal Free, which might work like Metal Magic in that sequestrant CAN cause a few days of cloudiness as the metals bond to calcium that is then filtered out.

And THEN got algae from low chlorine. (do you actually see any algae?)

So...you cannot/should not treat for metals when you shock/slam, and, according to Metal Magic, you should not shock/slam a week before or a week after.

SO finish the slam, pass the OCLT, BUT if your water is still tinted (your filter might actually clear the majority of it) but CLEAR then use a larger dose of Metal Magic (which you already ordered) until the tint is gone...but remember when you use it that it can make your water cloudy for a few days, so don't turn around and immediately slam again ;)

Another thing you might try DURING the Slam is to enhance your filtration with a Slimebag, which may "catch" some of the oxidized metals: The Slime Bag | The Easiest Way To Maintain Crystal Clear Pool Water.

Any of the metal that gets filtered out now will help down the road.

Hope that helps. Once you're sorted out, avoid needing to slam by always maintaining the cya:FC ratio -- so you don't oxidize more metal.


This is a great post and I thank you for your help. The video swampwoman posted was of great help as well. I am going to finish the slam, as I am still seeing a big FC loss overnight. MY CC is down to 0.5 but I lost 6 FC last night. Once that is completed than if the water is still green I will try the metal magic.

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I do not see any algae in the pool, though I may not know what to look for, but there is not staining or buildup on the pool walls.
 
Post a pic of your water and see what we think.

Algae can show up as cloudy water, hazy water, green water, slimy pool walls, little 1/4" green spots here and there or green patches. Dead algae is whitish/greyish, gathers on the bottom and looks kind of like sand but isn't gritty and is easily moved around.
 
I guess I'm in the minority-- or possibly alone... but there's a few things I don't understand that could just be red herrings... in any case, I really wonder if everyone shouldn't rewind for a minute... so here goes: :confused:

#1
Straight6tt: said:

  • I filled my pool 3 weeks ago and as soon as we added chlorine (bleach) the pool turned green/yellowish and it has not dissipated. Some days i can see the pool floor quite clearly other days (like today) the water is very opaque.
  • I am not on a well, I have city water.
  • I filled my pool with my hose with city water.
These questions are more for the experts than for s6tt:
  • How would a freshly-filled pool, from a city (non-well) source end up with metals in the water?
    ~and given that s6tt reports that there is no discoloration in his/her toilet tank, the assumption that it is iron seems especially unlikely.​
  • And though metals might explain the water turning green (but yellow?), it is certainly NOT the cause of "opaque" water, right?
#2
Straight6tt: said:
So I thought metals again

  • Have you had problems with metals before? If so, is your fill source this time the same as then?
  • I assume that you were refilling because you changed your liner? Or is this a brand-new pool?
#3
Straight6tt: said:
the water is very opaque. The pool looks like a greenish tub of bleach.
This comment from the first post left me :scratch: ... although I can't say that I've ever looked at a "tub of bleach"... :mrgreen:

There has been a recurring thinking that the problem must be metals in the water.

But how commonly are metals found in municipal, non-well sources?

I do know that generally, if there's a problem with iron in someone's tap water, there would be rusty, brown stains in his/her toilet tank. I don't know what other metals could be a problem in municipal water sources, or whether they stain the surfaces of toilets...

I realize I'm new to posting here, {but I'm not new to what used to be known as "BBB"}... and I don't know if my opinion means much yet. However, I have no doubt that it's possible, with all the expertise on this forum, to get to the bottom of this mystery, and have s6tt's pool in shape in no time! :goodjob:
 
I guess I'm in the minority-- or possibly alone... but there's a few things I don't understand that could just be red herrings... in any case, I really wonder if everyone shouldn't rewind for a minute... so here goes: :confused:

#1
These questions are more for the experts than for s6tt:
  • How would a freshly-filled pool, from a city (non-well) source end up with metals in the water?
    ~and given that s6tt reports that there is no discoloration in his/her toilet tank, the assumption that it is iron seems especially unlikely.​
  • And though metals might explain the water turning green (but yellow?), it is certainly NOT the cause of "opaque" water, right?
#2

  • Have you had problems with metals before? If so, is your fill source this time the same as then?
  • I assume that you were refilling because you changed your liner? Or is this a brand-new pool?
#3
This comment from the first post left me :scratch: ... although I can't say that I've ever looked at a "tub of bleach"... :mrgreen:

There has been a recurring thinking that the problem must be metals in the water.

But how commonly are metals found in municipal, non-well sources?

I do know that generally, if there's a problem with iron in someone's tap water, there would be rusty, brown stains in his/her toilet tank. I don't know what other metals could be a problem in municipal water sources, or whether they stain the surfaces of toilets...

I realize I'm new to posting here, {but I'm not new to what used to be known as "BBB"}... and I don't know if my opinion means much yet. However, I have no doubt that it's possible, with all the expertise on this forum, to get to the bottom of this mystery, and have s6tt's pool in shape in no time! :goodjob:

This is a brand new pool. I will post up a picture when I get home from work today. I have been taking pictures everyday at the same spot and the pool has not shown any (or very marginal) improvement. I can see the bottom pretty well before I get in but it seems after awhile of swimming the water gets more cloudy and is tougher to see the bottom.

I am going to double check my toilet tanks again to make sure they are not discolored.
 

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