Plaster top step freeze/thaw issues?

fre1102

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2019
46
Saint Louis, Missouri
Each year I drain my pool below the return lines. This leaves the top step exposed and the second step either exposed or in about an inch of water. Each year it seems like the plaster on those two steps got chewed up more than the plaster than remained completely submerged. I assume the water freeze/thaw cycle is messing it up. We got the pool re-plastered this year. I'd like to not have the nice new plaster destroyed this winter.

This has got to be a solved issue with pools. Do I just cope? Leave the pool open and heater running to keep the water from freezing? Paint the steps with anti-freeze? I've got a few months yet before I close, but I'd like to plan now.
 
Each year I drain my pool below the return lines. This leaves the top step exposed and the second step either exposed or in about an inch of water. Each year it seems like the plaster on those two steps got chewed up more than the plaster than remained completely submerged. I assume the water freeze/thaw cycle is messing it up. We got the pool re-plastered this year. I'd like to not have the nice new plaster destroyed this winter.

This has got to be a solved issue with pools. Do I just cope? Leave the pool open and heater running to keep the water from freezing? Paint the steps with anti-freeze? I've got a few months yet before I close, but I'd like to plan now.
I have a similar problem and decided to keep the water level up at the tile since its cheaper to repair tile than plaster. Just gotta make sure to blow out and seal the returns and skimmers. You have a bit colder winter than I do so YMMV.
 
I have a similar problem and decided to keep the water level up at the tile since its cheaper to repair tile than plaster. Just gotta make sure to blow out and seal the returns and skimmers. You have a bit colder winter than I do so YMMV.
Thanks for the reply. So you're blowing everything out then screwing in the plugs while the air is flowing out of them underwater? I could try that.

It didn't freeze here much at all last winter. I feel like the draining is more a failsafe against the plugs failing. Each year, though, they seem to be dry when I open them.

I guess I could drain--to make SURE they're drained--then fill to the tile. They've gotten above the returns some years from rain and snow anyway.
 
Thanks for the reply. So you're blowing everything out then screwing in the plugs while the air is flowing out of them underwater? I could try that.
Yea, the last return is always the hardest since all the air is blowing through it. They make special one way duck valves that screw on to do it automatically, but they dont seal very well on my setup. Last year I built little snorkels for each one and used those. The issue with that is that ice can freeze on those and add pressure to the wall fittings. I may try again and then use flexible sprinkler pipe that I can cap and then cap with a small ball valve under water.
 
Yea, the last return is always the hardest since all the air is blowing through it. They make special one way duck valves that screw on to do it automatically, but they dont seal very well on my setup. Last year I built little snorkels for each one and used those. The issue with that is that ice can freeze on those and add pressure to the wall fittings. I may try again and then use flexible sprinkler pipe that I can cap and then cap with a small ball valve under water.
I wonder if I could make fittings to screw into the returns with ball valves on them. Or make one, anyway. Plug all but the last with the screw in plugs, then turn the ball valve on the last one.
 
I too was disappointed in the quality of duck plugs. The 'lips' were thin flimsy rubber that barely held themselves together. The ice popped my cap and I have no idea how long the lips went exposed.

Bungee plugs are much more robust and I'd use them instead of a snorkel of any kind. If the ice had a hold of it and shifted as it melted, it could be a big problem.
 
I too was disappointed in the quality of duck plugs. The 'lips' were thin flimsy rubber that barely held themselves together. The ice popped my cap and I have no idea how long the lips went exposed.

Bungee plugs are much more robust and I'd use them instead of a snorkel of any kind. If the ice had a hold of it and shifted as it melted, it could be a big problem.
Actually its the bungee plugs I have a hard time with because they wont screw in deep enough for the oring to seal it. Maybe I just need to wrap some tape around the threads (or maybe pool lube?) and ignore the oring.
 
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