Phosphates

[lavndrocean]

4weeks ago our pool service said we had zero chlorine, which he then said had been going on for 4 weeks prior to even that, so he dumped a gallon of chlorine in, said he didn't know what the problem was, told us to get our salt cell checked and moved on. We took the water to get tested, and found there was no stabilizer. Got that straightened out. Now, in the last 4 weeks , we've been testing the water outside from our weekly service guy, and we've gone from no chlorine to too much. Yesterday I found that he turned our salt generator to 100% output in the salt cell. We turned it down to 70%
Please see yesterday's test....Leslie's sold us NoPhos and said to add half a bottle (I'm attaching our test results) but I just saw that we are supposed to run the pump for a full 48hrs? And we don't know anything about backwashing the filter etc. I'm going to go through the "Start here" forum, look at test kits etc., but I wanted to ask if it's really important to add the NoPhos and run the system for 48hrs, or can we skip this for now? Our water is clean, and clear. No discolor whatsoever and there hasn't been for two years we've lived here. Today we added stabilizer, FreshNClean and muriatic acid per the sheet. I swear Leslie's sells us $60-$100 of Crud every week. We're new to figuring this out and I downloaded the PoolMath but I have to figure that thing out. Can someone advise me for now on the NoPhos issue?

 

[mknauss]

You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

Return all the magic potions to Leslies. Get your own test kit. Follow What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

 

[dfwnoob]

Welcome to TFP! Glad you've found us.

First things first, stay out of the pool store, and stop getting your water tested at the pool store. You're getting pool store'd. Read The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

Second, buy a recommended test kit: Either the Taylor K2006-C (this model number exactly) from Amazon or the TFTestKits TF-100/TF-Pro from tftestkits.net. The TF kits are a better deal for the amount of reagents you get. I personally strongly recommend getting a SmartStir/SpeedStir whichever way you go. It'll make your testing life much easier.

Third, only venture to the pool store to return the garbage they've sold you.

Finally, phosphates are not accounted for or managed in the TFP method. Phosphates are algae food - but - if you never have algae in the first place it doesn't matter.

 

[IceShadow]

On top of that - phosphate levels of 109 parts per BILLION is pretty laughable to worry about.

I just tested my water for phosphates (you don’t need to worry about phosphates in a well-chlorinated pool, but I’m going on vacation for two weeks soon and want some backup insurance) and it was about 750-1000ppb. Even that isn’t a lot to worry about. I used a quality phosphate remover (SeaKlear, much more expensive but much more potent than the watery no-phos pool stores typically sell) and got down to about 125-250ppb, and am satisfied with that.

 

[lavndrocean]

Welcome to TFP! Glad you've found us.

First things first, stay out of the pool store, and stop getting your water tested at the pool store. You're getting pool store'd. Read The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

Second, buy a recommended test kit: Either the Taylor K2006-C (this model number exactly) from Amazon or the TFTestKits TF-100/TF-Pro from tftestkits.net. The TF kits are a better deal for the amount of reagents you get. I personally strongly recommend getting a SmartStir/SpeedStir whichever way you go. It'll make your testing life much easier.

Third, only venture to the pool store to return the garbage they've sold you.

Finally, phosphates are not accounted for or managed in the TFP method. Phosphates are algae food - but - if you never have algae in the first place it doesn't matter.

Will the TF-100/TF-Pro from tftestkits.net be the proper one for our salt pool?

 

[jark87]

As stated above, get a good test kit. It will be the best investment you’ll make in your pool. Testing and maintaining your pool is incredibly easy, especially since you have a salt cell. I spend about 10 minutes per week maintaining my pool. Testing takes about 5 minutes and the other 5 minutes is spent adding muratic acid and emptying skimmer baskets. I can probably squeeze some brushing into that 10 minutes, too. Piece of cake, and even better, peace of mind. I know what’s going on with my pool. If chlorine levels are dropping, I know something’s wrong. Rarely happens because I know where to set my SWCG for various conditions based on my own testing over the years. And I started with zero experience - had no idea what I was doing, but I followed the instructions from my builder’s pool school, which got me by until I found TFP. Now I have a great resource if something I don’t understand pops up.

I also manage phosphates as an insurance policy, but the level shown on your test isn’t a concern. The gap between free and total chlorine raises an eyebrow, but until you can test with a reliable kit, you really can’t trust the results. And BTW, free chlorine of 14 with CYA of 40 is also ok - upper level is 16 at that CYA level, assuming the test was accurate. Your pH test may be off, as it’s not reliable with free chlorine above 10.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

Good luck!

 

[lavndrocean]

As stated above, get a good test kit. It will be the best investment you’ll make in your pool. Testing and maintaining your pool is incredibly easy, especially since you have a salt cell. I spend about 10 minutes per week maintaining my pool. Testing takes about 5 minutes and the other 5 minutes is spent adding muratic acid and emptying skimmer baskets. I can probably squeeze some brushing into that 10 minutes, too. Piece of cake, and even better, peace of mind. I know what’s going on with my pool. If chlorine levels are dropping, I know something’s wrong. Rarely happens because I know where to set my SWCG for various conditions based on my own testing over the years. And I started with zero experience - had no idea what I was doing, but I followed the instructions from my builder’s pool school, which got me by until I found TFP. Now I have a great resource if something I don’t understand pops up.

I also manage phosphates as an insurance policy, but the level shown on your test isn’t a concern. The gap between free and total chlorine raises an eyebrow, but until you can test with a reliable kit, you really can’t trust the results. And BTW, free chlorine of 14 with CYA of 40 is also ok - upper level is 16 at that CYA level, assuming the test was accurate. Your pH test may be off, as it’s not reliable with free chlorine above 10.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

Good luck!

Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Will the TF-100/TF-Pro from tftestkits.net be the proper one for our salt pool?

The TFPro Salt is the perfect kit for your pool.

 

[lavndrocean]

The TFPro Salt is the perfect kit for your pool.

Great, thanks so much.

 

[lavndrocean]

Okay, the TF-Pro Salt with smart stir has been purchased. Step1! Step 2- return items to Leslie's tomorrow (if they're open)!

 

[lavndrocean]

The TFPro Salt is the perfect kit for your pool.

Hi. The test kit arrived this afternoon. After going through the instructions that came on the papers, their website and watching a video or two, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. The box was so big I didn't even want to open it. My husband asked me what the heck I ordered, so when he saw the kit he asked when I started doing chemistry classes
I read on the forum the preferred time to test is usually in the evening? I think I'm going to program the pool to run 4hrs day and 4hours evening. We're in Brevard Co., Florida, the pool is in full sun (screened) all day, no shade ever. It's just my husband and I. The grandkids come 1-2x a month, sometimes. Anyway- what's the best way, easiest thing to start with on this test kit so I don't feel idiot? Also, since we have a salt pool, I read the salt instructions and it says "for one drop= 200 ppm Sodium Chloride" then follows with the instructions. What does "For 1drop= 200ppm" even mean? I'm a wee bit nervous, can you tell?

 

[mknauss]

You can test whatever time of day you like. The CYA test is best if you have full sun to do it.

Did you watch TF-100's YouTube Channel. There is also Extended Test Kit Directions Archives
It is an older video, but goes through each test (except the salt test). If your SWCG is operating, do not worry about the salt test right now.

 

[duraleigh]

First, Welcome to the forum

can we skip this for now?

You can skip phosphates forever. They are not relevant to our type pool care

We'll all help you with the testing and it will be quite easy after a time or two.

Please read "Pool Care Basics" up in Pool School in case mknauss hasn't already said that.

 

[Orion7319]

Hi. The test kit arrived this afternoon. After going through the instructions that came on the papers, their website and watching a video or two, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. The box was so big I didn't even want to open it. My husband asked me what the heck I ordered, so when he saw the kit he asked when I started doing chemistry classes
I read on the forum the preferred time to test is usually in the evening? I think I'm going to program the pool to run 4hrs day and 4hours evening. We're in Brevard Co., Florida, the pool is in full sun (screened) all day, no shade ever. It's just my husband and I. The grandkids come 1-2x a month, sometimes. Anyway- what's the best way, easiest thing to start with on this test kit so I don't feel idiot? Also, since we have a salt pool, I read the salt instructions and it says "for one drop= 200 ppm Sodium Chloride" then follows with the instructions. What does "For 1drop= 200ppm" even mean? I'm a wee bit nervous, can you tell?

It seems pretty complicated at first. It isn’t. Basically your just adding drops for each test until the color changes and you use the multiplier for the given test. For example, with the salt test if it takes 10 drops for the color change your salt level is 2,000ppm (10x200=2,000) You can know how much chemicals you need to add by using the pool math app.

PoolMath

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[lavndrocean]

You can test whatever time of day you like. The CYA test is best if you have full sun to do it.

Did you watch TF-100's YouTube Channel. There is also Extended Test Kit Directions Archives
It is an older video, but goes through each test (except the salt test). If your SWCG is operating, do not worry about the salt test right now.

I did. I think I watched & read too much, and got overwhelmed. It's normal for me. I did this test just now, as a practice run, just to step myself through it, and here's the results? The yellow is rather orange.
I just realized, I don’t know what all the colors mean and I don’t remember reading through that information when I was reading the ABCs, basics information in “pool school.” I haven’t read everything but darn near so I’m sure I missed something? I’m on the “Extended Test Kit Directions” page right now.

 

[mknauss]

Great start! Be sure to fill the comparator block with pool water to the line in the top block. Your results are a bit skewed because you did not fill the vial all the way.

 

[lavndrocean]

It seems pretty complicated at first. It isn’t. Basically your just adding drops for each test until the color changes and you use the multiplier for the given test. For example, with the salt test if it takes 10 drops for the color change your salt level is 2,000ppm (10x200=2,000) You can know how much chemicals you need to add by using the pool math app.

PoolMath

www.troublefreepool.com

Oh, got it, thanks! That salt thing confused me!

 

[lavndrocean]

Great start! Be sure to fill the comparator block with pool water to the line in the top block. Your results are a bit skewed because you did not fill the vial all the way.

Oh, I filled it to the "Max" line thinking that was the line. Thank you!

 

[lavndrocean]

Great start! Be sure to fill the comparator block with pool water to the line in the top block. Your results are a bit skewed because you did not fill the vial all the way.

Here’s a new pic I just redid it-

 

[mknauss]

Great. Your TC (Total Chlorine) is over 5 ppm. The pH looks to be 8.2 or higher.

Do the FAS-DPD test for FC now. 10 ml of water, one heaping scoop of R0870. Put the stir bar in and set on the Smartstir. Hit the button and the bar will spin. Add R0871 one drop at a time (just invert the bottle to vertical and the drops should naturally form and fall). Count the drops to clear. Each drop is 0.5ppm FC.