Phosphate Issue and more

[Yorker]

Hello TFP!

I’m helping a friend (and introducing him to the wonders of TFP). This is what he tells me.

He experiences a light green (or greenish) color on the steps. When he brushes it, it easily lifts up and disperses. He has a Polaris MAXX auto cleaner thats on 7hrs a day when the pump is in pool mode – I believe that will suck it up, but not clear it will pick up the green on its own without brushing. I’m also unclear on how long it takes for the green to return.

He uses Leslie’s to analyze his water (I know, I know I’m just stating the facts, only the facts ). I told him all the reasons not to trust those tests.

I’ve attached the Leslie’s full water report. Here a a few of their tests to compare to mine.
FC: 1.27
PH: 7.9
CH: 75
CYA: 102
Phosphates: 3191

Here is the results from the limited testing I did with my TFP test kit.
FC: 5.0
PH: 7.5
CH: 375
CYA: 90 (he needs to drain)

This may be a good time to mention that he uses puck floaters with a periodic topper of liquid chlorine (using Lowes pool chlorine). I explained that pucks are introducing additional CYA and why that is NOT a good thing.

Leslie’s sold him a product called "No Phosphates". I believe with the instructions to put 1/2 gallon in, run the pump consistently for 48hrs (with freshly cleaned filters), then repeat. Then return to Leslie's for a new water test.

My friend (or Leslie’s has his pool at 12,000 gallons. It’s about half the size of mine so I estimate it to be between 4 - 6k.

My council will be
1— Complete what he started with Leslie’s. Get new tests done at two different Leslie’s (they are very close to each other). This may (hopefully) show how different (and unreliable) their tests can an be.

2 — Do a full drain (our water temps are now in the low 70’s). Our outside temps will range between 76-100° DAY and 72-54° Evening over the next five days. I bet the drain/fill can be completed in under 8 hours.

3 — Check his water meter when filling to get a better estimate of the amount of water his pool holds.

4 — Start using a TF-100 test kit to test his water. Heck, I’ll come over twice a week and use mine (to get him started)


Thoughts?
— Best, York

My TFP research:
Phosphates - do I treat?

 

[mknauss]

Do not, repeat, do not add phosphate remover with live algae in the pool. Big mistake. Will be a mess.

No way they have a CH of 375 ppm unless this water has only been in the pool a few months.

IF the CH is 375 ppm and the CYA 90, I would drain half and refill. Then follow the SLAM Process

 

[Yorker]

Thanks for the info Marty. I need to copy the posts that explain why and send those to him. The threads I read those on had a number real chem tech stuff that would shut him down - it did me.

The 375 CH was using my T-100 kit. We live 15 minutes from each other that number made me test it twice. He did mention that his auto fill was with softened water. I did point out that Leslie's 75 was certainly unbelievable.

 

[mknauss]

He did mention that his auto fill was with softened water

Great. So no need to do a complete drain. I would drain half or so and then refill with non softened water plus let the autofill run with the softened water.

 

[Yorker]

Great. So no need to do a complete drain. I would drain half or so and then refill with non softened water plus let the autofill run with the softened water.

Would you still suggest a SLAM after the refill?

 

[mknauss]

Yes. You state live algae now. That does not go away without a complete SLAM.

 

[Yorker]

Yes. You state live algae now. That does not go away without a complete SLAM.

Thanks Marty. I'm waiting to see where he is on all this.

I'll report back with an update.

 

[reggiehammond]

If he's a friend, buy him a TF-100 Pro kit and teach him how to do the tests.
Once he completes a SLAM, he'll be ready to use the kit, understanding the basics.

With a SWCG, I spend very little time or effort for trouble free pool care. A few trips a year to Home Depot for Muriatic Acid, a couple of CYA orders... it can be so easy.