Phoenix, AZ specific water balancing

[mwpow3ll]

Last Oct. I had my pool remodeled, and thus far I thikn I've been managing it ok; however, this summer I'd like to try extra hard to get it 'sparkling' and to keep it that way; therefore, I'd like to get some specific answers from Arizona residents or others that are more knowledgeable.

My pool chemical stats (using Liquid Chlorine):

Temp: 69 f

FC: 4.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 65'ish
CH: 250
CYA: 30'ish

Questions:

• I've seen people mention that in Arizona, most people have best luck keeping their TA to 60'ish to control pH swing.
  1. Is there any danger of keeping TA that low? The Taylor guide indicates both governing bodies want the TA no lower than 80.
     • I think the answer here is it doesn't matter so long as the CSI indicates balance
  2. How do you read the chemical change for TA? I did a 50ml sample instead of 25ml with original instructions, the manual says this will make each drop 5 steps instead of 10, my solution turns ever so slightly red after drop 12, but full red after drop 13. According to the manual you're suppose to keep counting until no color change; therefore, I'm assuming I have TA of 65... is this accurate or is 60 more accurate?
• I've seen mentioned that pH will naturally stabilize and mine seems to do it around 7.8 or 7.7; however, 7.5 pH is the recommended swimming target.
  1. How are people in Arizona managing TA of 60-65 while keeping pH 7.5 and their CSI in balance?
     1. I'd have to add over 4.5+ lbs of dry acid every week to maintain the pH at this level but then my CSI would be out of balance...
• CSI seems extremely important, but I get three different numbers from three different sources, which do I trust? Does someone have anything better or recommendations on salt content for old pool math?
  • Taylor wheel indicates that with my numbers above, that my CSI is Dang near 0.0; however, this doesn't seem to take into account CYA
  • Old Pool Math seems to corroborate this, +0.02, if I keep the default 1000 salt, but without knowing my salt reading, this could be as bad as 0.11 which is still balanced but off a good amount.
  • Pentair seems to think I'm -0.03, practically the opposite of Old Pool math... but still balanced.
    • My major concern with CSI readings is that I want to minimize scaling, but I went on vacation end of february for a week when the freak snow storm happened and when I came back, the CSI was thrown off so much I started to get scaling. This makes me thing I want to keep my pool in the negatives more than closer to 0.0 but without having a definitve source how do I accomplish that?

 

[kimkats]

Water is water no matter where it is. Now some of it might have higher CH (hard water) or lower TA or off the chart pH but it can all be "fixed" in one way or another.

Now lets do some tweaking of your thinking.........most of the levels TFP recommends are stated in RANGES. We do not advice a pH of one hard number. It is a range as we know each pool is different.

I will tell you that the ranges of levels used here at TFP are all based on hard science. We have the scientific write ups if you would to do some reading. Most of them are over at the Deep End.

Look in my siggy below for the links you need to be able to find and use to have a Trouble Free Pool!

Kim

 

[Texas Splash]

I was raised in Vegas then lived in AZ for several years. Yeah, I know the routine as well. But let's address a few things you noted:
- TA of 60 dangerous - no... correct - CSI in your case is more important.
- For TA, stick with the 25ML sample and each drop being 10. No need to get more specific....Barbie pink is good.
- As Kim said, don't worry about a specific pH. We know it has the largest influence on your CSI, so you will manage it through the year based on weather. If your pool likes a slightly higher pH and the CSI is okay with it - leave it there.
- Avoid dry acid - too many additional junk added. Use muriatic acid to control pH. If over time the TA continues to fall too low, then simply bring the TA up a little. It's an ongoing issue sometimes.
- Our new Poolmath app is best for your CSI number. Some other online charts vary theirs slightly, but we trust ours. The old Poolmath website version is close, but no longer updated and the new app has updated programming. We can get expert feedback if you really need it.
- Scale should not have happened from that Feb storm as I'm assuming it dropped the water temp. Lower water temp means a lower CSI and less chance for scale. Perhaps something else happened? Just seems odd on that one.
- As you know, a rising CH will be your biggest challenge each season. Cover the pool if possible to minimize refills unless you fill from a water softener. Rain water helps, but for you, best chance is probably in August during monsoon season.
- Sounds like you have the K-2006 test kit, so trust it and your testing. You're on the right track. Even if a CSI reading fluctuates a bit for a few days, or even a couple weeks, it shouldn't have dramatic effects. It takes a while for changes like scale or erosion to take place. It's not an exact science, so try to stay in the recommended ranges and you should be fine.

 

[kimkats]

Oh and water temps!!! They play a major part in the overall CSI as well.