PH level before the SLAM

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Just realized I never posted an after photo[emoji4]

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Thanks again all for the advice and guidance [emoji1][emoji106]


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Steve-in-VA said:
welp... bit of a WARNING to others that read this thread. BE SURE TO KNOW YOUR LEVELS BEFORE ADDING BLEACH. The first weekend (waiting for my test kit) I overdosed my pool and I bleached my liner!! SMH.

I think a couple of mistakes i made was pouring to heavy and fast initially. On a positive note my pool is clear enough to see that i screwed up the pattern especially in front of the return stream. :brickwall::brickwall::brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:

its not too terrible but its bad enough to be noticeable once my water is crystal clear.

ALSO be sure to measure you pool water depth when figuring how many gallons of water are in your pool. my pool dimensions are 30' round x 52" high but my water depth is only 48" (due to skimmer height) so I was factoring approximately 2K more gallons of water I did not have..

LESSON LEARNED. Listen to the ones that have been doing this awhile haha :oops:
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From your first post:

Steve-in-VA said:
I've added about a half a jug of muriatic acid a couple days ago and the range was still high. (though not sure how accurate the strips are though.

I've probably used about 14 bags (lbs) of shock the past few days. pool still green as grass. very frustrating and expensive. its calcium hypochlorite 47.6%, Sodium tetraboarate pentahydrate 20.0% "other ingredients" 32.4% (simple salt shimmer). Also the first day I added 6 bags of shock around 11am (i'm sure the daylight killed that since it was hot and sunny) last night (about 7:30 pm) I added 8 more bags to "really" shock it and this morning I looked at the pool before leaving for work and it didnt look any different (7:30 am) pump runs 24/7. Added new sand to filter over the weekend. vacuumed a lot of the chunks on the bottom of the pool of algae to waste before changing sand. stirred up the bottom with the brush before adding the shock last night.
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One should always add concentrated chemicals (especially acid and chlorine) slowly over a return flow with the pump running AND after adding lightly brush the sides and bottom of the pool in the area of chemical addition to ensure thorough mixing. Many concentrated chemicals are denser than water so until mixed they can settle at the bottom and pool and cause damage.

Half a jug of full-strengh Muriatic Acid in 21,000 gallons is not horribly excessive and lowers the TA by 12 ppm while the pH at a starting TA of 80 ppm would go from 7.8 to 7.0 or 7.1.

However, 14 pounds of 47% Cal-Hypo would raise the FC by 38 ppm and the additional 8 bags would increase the FC by 22 ppm so a total of 60 ppm FC which is excessively high. You even started a SLAM after that still not having a proper test kit and in this post liner fading/damage was noted as a risk by not knowing your true water chemistry parameters, especially CYA level. Once you got your kit you measured a CYA level of "less than 20" so the chlorine you added was not significantly moderated in its strength by CYA so was WAY too strong. Essentially because the FC level far exceeded the CYA level, your initial Cal-Hypo was a hugely excessive amount of chlorine dosing.

I'm writing all of this not to admonish (you acknowledged your mistake) because some people will point to the liner fading and conclude that "bleach fades liners" even though to start with you used Cal-Hypo and more importantly way too much chlorine for your CYA level. As noted here, most vinyl liner colors EXCEPT medium-shade blue are based on colorants that do not fade with chlorine, but medium-shade blue is based on an organic color that is sensitive to chlorine levels. However, it is the active chlorine level that matters and yours was exceptionally high, probably equivalent to around 12 ppm FC with no CYA or thereabouts. Also, unless the Cal-Hypo was finely pulverized or pre-mixed in water, it likely settled to the bottom of the pool where in concentrated form could do more damage.

A SLAM even if done correctly does accelerate the effects from chlorine. One day at normal SLAM levels (FC that is 40% of the CYA level) is equivalent in active chlorine level to 10 days at normal manually-dosed chlorine level (FC that is 7.5% of the CYA level). However, such acceleration should not result in any noticeable effects even with a medium-shade blue vinyl liner.
 
Yeah adding slowly definitely is key. With my water being clear now I can actually see the chlorine (12.5%) in the water and how dense it looks before the return jet disperses it.

So when initially adding I was pouring more than the return could handle and it settled to the bottom then and was a dense cloud of chlorine at the bottom.

The lighter blue color was the main thing effected...and its more noticeable in the path if the return jet.

The powdered cal hypo was premixed in a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 bag at a time so it wouldn't clump and just sink to the bottom but I'm sure some did settle though. That was a lot.

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Yeah beens, pretty stoked about the clarity.

Been swimming melody even before fully crystal. ? but don't tell nobody ha-ha.

--- well time to dive into adding CYA to the pool. What would be an ideal range for me to shoot for? Just picked up 4#s of stabilizer from WM.

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Pogueld said:
Stabilizer is very important - it's the CYA that protests your chlorine. You're doing great!!
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You gotta love Tapatalk and Apple's iOS auto spell/correct! Some of the best one-liners ever written have come from it ;)

Hopefully the "protests" were peaceful :p


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Welp....things were going too smoothly ha. My pump went out yesterday morning before we were leaving to go to the beach.

It was the original pump that came with the pool. Approx. 8-10 years old. Had 3 years use of it.

It was a 1/5 single speed that I run 24/7. Not very energy efficient haha.

I'm replacing it with a 1hp 2 speed to help with energy usage. Should be here tomorrow. Thankful for Prime membership

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Specs/manufacturer/etc please?

How did you choose it?

Sorry to hear about the equipment failure but I think you really like the 2-speed. The lower speed is great for energy efficiency and filtration while the high speed makes vacuuming a cinch!


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