Pentair microbrite light installation question

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D

Dst

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Aug 25, 2020
2
Phoenix, AZ
First off, I want to thank everyone on here for posted question and answers given.. I have learned so much, but still much left to learn. That being said, my wife and I are currently build our own. I’m just now getting ready to finish the electrical before the shotcrete stage and I have a question about the microbrite lights and their installation. I understand that I can use the 1-1/2” pvc for the housing in the wall, but what I am not understanding is according to the instructions from pentair, it looks like I need to also install what looks like a 1-1/2” npt(???)or a wall fitting. So is this wall fitting done after pool finish? If so, how would I get the threading over the 1-1/2” pvc if the conduit is locked in place by the shotcrete and finish?
I know that I am probably over thinking things here, but I am gluing up the conduit tomorrow for all of the electrical and want to make sure everything is in place before inspection and shotcrete. Anyone here ever installed the microbrite light in a new build? I appreciate any feedback.
Dan
 
So if everything that I have read and talking with others, I would treat the light conduit like the plumbing return conduit and just extend past where ”finished shotcrete” and my pebble finish would be and trim back like the returns?
 
I have the same question. Do I need to add a standard return wall fitting like thishttps://www.yourpoolhq.com/hayward-sp1022s-wall-fitting.html

....Or will a standard plumbers 1.5” schedule 40 slip to FPT work?
 
I just posted a similar question but I am post gunite and can help there.
My shotcrete crew scooped out a depression around the pipe stubs so there looks to be room for the slip fitting to slide over the pipe.

the electrical was run in 3/4 conduit then a conduit to PVC fitting (this is likely a slip 3/4 to 1.5” but there may have been some thread fitting involves. I look for photos) about a foot outside the bond beam wall. Then the light and return PVC stub out about 2” into pool interior and capped/glued.

the spot I’m at now is where to cut the light pvc stub and glue on the wall fittings. Should I use flush or flange? Distance from wall or back of flange plumb to front of tile?

good luck,
 
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Heliman500 said:
I have the same question. Do I need to add a standard return wall fitting like thishttps://www.yourpoolhq.com/hayward-sp1022s-wall-fitting.html

....Or will a standard plumbers 1.5” schedule 40 slip to FPT work?
Click to expand...
Good question. You may save a few bucks but I think you want to pool fittings, especially if using a flange fitting. Though I am not sure and hate answers like this because if it is flush mount you may not see the fitting , however it is likely saving $35 retail and maybe $10 if you find a deal online or commercial pricing.
 
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I am now at post poster too and have the same questions. My interior finish crew said they will cut the returns and install eyeballs. I forgot to ask them about the lights...
Following for advice.
@bdavis466 any ideas if setting the lights (microbrites) is within the scope of normal interior finish, or should that be completed pre-plaster?
 
Heliman500 said:
I am now at post poster too and have the same questions. My interior finish crew said they will cut the returns and install eyeballs. I forgot to ask them about the lights...
Following for advice.
@bdavis466 any ideas if setting the lights (microbrites) is within the scope of normal interior finish, or should that be completed pre-plaster?
Click to expand...
My plasterer sounded like the electrician should do it, or me, but we agreed that I will fish the lines through the wall fittings (not glued) the through the stub and to power source. They will then cut the pipe in place and not knick the wires. Hopefully all goes to plan.
 
That sounds like a logical plan. Maybe a few wraps of duct tape around the wire or some of that split automotive flexi conduit might offer some protectction. Looks like pentair has a 1.5” pool fitting, PN#542405, or Hayward PN# SP1022S. These are both white in color, other colors might be available.
 
Thanks Hellman. I think I’ll find something or cut a metal pipe with a cut a cut slot to slip over the wires inside the PVC. Or if there is such a thing like a cutting cage I’ll buy one. I think this would work in case this catches the crew off guard. Do not want to cut those wires 😎
 

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jalapenopopper said:
Thanks Hellman. I think I’ll find something or cut a metal pipe with a cut a cut slot to slip over the wires inside the PVC. Or if there is such a thing like a cutting cage I’ll buy one. I think this would work in case this catches the crew off guard. Do not want to cut those wires 😎
Click to expand...
@jalapenopopper Good morning, did you ever get round to installing the lights, if so, are you able to answer any of your original questions, set back cut, type of fitting, ore or post plaster installation? Do you mind sharing any pictures.
Cheers
 
The plaster prep crew came today and cut the pipe. This one still protrudes a bit further than expected but I assume they know what they are doing. Not sure how they cut it, likely with a grinder (i saw one on site) or a reciprocating saw.

I bought flush mount fittings.

the cut out some exposed rebar and tie wires and painted with a silver paint


i found some other rusty tie wires that needs to be dealt with. Can a certain type of paint alone cover them sufficiently? 17F44455-A961-4DCA-8A09-79D221365DBC.jpeg
 
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Dst said:
First off, I want to thank everyone on here for posted question and answers given.. I have learned so much, but still much left to learn. That being said, my wife and I are currently build our own. I’m just now getting ready to finish the electrical before the shotcrete stage and I have a question about the microbrite lights and their installation. I understand that I can use the 1-1/2” pvc for the housing in the wall, but what I am not understanding is according to the instructions from pentair, it looks like I need to also install what looks like a 1-1/2” npt(???)or a wall fitting. So is this wall fitting done after pool finish? If so, how would I get the threading over the 1-1/2” pvc if the conduit is locked in place by the shotcrete and finish?
I know that I am probably over thinking things here, but I am gluing up the conduit tomorrow for all of the electrical and want to make sure everything is in place before inspection and shotcrete. Anyone here ever installed the microbrite light in a new build? I appreciate any feedback.
Dan
Click to expand...
They have inside slip fittings, so the return fitting slips inside the 1.5” pipe and the snugs up against the cut end of the pipe.
there are outsiders but so many stores are sold out of white goods/plastics like those.
 
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jalapenopopper said:
They have inside slip fittings, so the return fitting slips inside the 1.5” pipe and the snugs up against the cut end of the pipe.
there are outsiders but so many stores are sold out of white goods/plastics like those.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing your experience so far. Good to know they have inside slip options. I did find some outside slip fittings but thinking I’ll need to cut back the pipe 1/2” inside surface of wall to accommodate, this would allow 3/8” for plaster. I too have some piano wire here and there that needs to be cut, I’d be interested to know if anyone else knows about the paint question
 
I bought some cold galvanizing paint or compound in a spray pint can from Home Depot to go over the tie wire area.

move heard from another plaster company they will chip or grind down rebar or rust spots, epoxy the metal, then hydraulic cement. Then plaster. But this is a bit involved.

I see you have some flange fittings. I got the same at first the. Received recs to get flush mount which look a bit cleaner. Might be worthwhile if you have time to get some and are interested.
 
jalapenopopper said:
I bought some cold galvanizing paint or compound in a spray pint can from Home Depot to go over the tie wire area.

move heard from another plaster company they will chip or grind down rebar or rust spots, epoxy the metal, then hydraulic cement. Then plaster. But this is a bit involved.

I see you have some flange fittings. I got the same at first the. Received recs to get flush mount which look a bit cleaner. Might be worthwhile if you have time to get some and are interested.
Click to expand...
@jalapenopopper thank you. Great intel. Do you have picture of the fittings you got. How far out did they protrude from gunite?
 
The pipe was cut more during plaster day to be about where the purple marker line in the pipe is or more. This fitting slips inside the pipe as in the photo on right, then the front of the fitting is plumb with the face or the tile, about 3/8” O believe. I made the plaster crew pop it off and cut the pipe more because it was hard to get it flush, with the shallow depression. The finished fitting is flush and you only see the face of it. The sides are completely plastered and does not protrude.0817DCC7-3D75-4CF8-9C0C-F4B0AD2FEC5D.jpeg
 
jalapenopopper said:
The pipe was cut more during plaster day to be about where the purple marker line in the pipe is or more. This fitting slips inside the pipe as in the photo on right, then the front of the fitting is plumb with the face or the tile, about 3/8” O believe. I made the plaster crew pop it off and cut the pipe more because it was hard to get it flush, with the shallow depression. The finished fitting is flush and you only see the face of it. The sides are completely plastered and does not protrude.View attachment 347499
Click to expand...
I like! Do you know the brand and part number of this fitting?
 

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