We are talking about the thermistor, but I was talking about the stack flue sensor before regarding the stripped connection.
Pentair MasterTemp 400 keeps shutting on and off- then stops trying
- Thread starter davedive
- Start date
Maybe some progress. I went back to the wires to test again and decided to forget them and just connect the resistor to the 2 metal pins on the board (see below). When I started up the heater I got a 77 and the thing turned on- wow! It's ALIVE! Maybe I can just use a jumper wire to get from the thermistor to the board? The pins on the board were a little corroded but I had already cleaned them with a brush and steel wool. Maybe it is the female connector on the brown wire?
Attachments
Possibly.
You can just get a new connector if you can find the correct one.
You should be able to use the dimensions to find a suitable connector.
Note that this is LED 07, which lights up when the thermistor is bad.
The following are the LEDs:
The following are the LEDs:
- .....PS (Pressure Switch)
- .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
- .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
- .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
- .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
- .....Service System
- .....Thermistor
- .....Heating
- .....Pool On
- ...Spa On
- ...Service Heater.
Hey promising development. I made a jumper cable using some thin brass tubing, wire, etc. and hooked it up between the board and the thermistor (see pics). Heater started right up and is now running! Lets see if it can go awhile.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,853
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Maybe try some contact cleaner on the contacts.
The connector is a standard connector if you want to replace it, but you need the right part number.
Pin diameter and spacing should be able to identify the correct part.
The connector is a standard connector if you want to replace it, but you need the right part number.
Pin diameter and spacing should be able to identify the correct part.
It seems like everything thing is working now (fingers crossed). I got the spa to heat up no problem and heated the pool for 2 hours also. The only issue I noticed was the temp difference showing on the heater display and the spa keypad and indoor keypad. Heater said 100 but spa and indoor said 103. The heater did turn off at the preset 103. I don't think this is a big deal? So, after all that it looks like the issue was the brown cable, although prior tests seemed to show conductivity end to end. I will need to make up a better replacement cable and clean those contacts but many thanks for hanging in there and providing great support!!!
The board measures resistance, so any corrosion can affect the reading.
100 F = 5,827 ohms and 103 = 5,446 ohms, which is a 381 ohm difference.
100 F = 5,827 ohms and 103 = 5,446 ohms, which is a 381 ohm difference.