During a bad storm here we lost the use of the interior remote panel. It still has power to it, but the screen is blank and gets very hot, so we removed the face plate for safety. Along with that, the intellichlor has no power to it, the lights aren’t flashing. The intellichlor small circuit button in the panel trips when the filter is turned on, but when I reset it, it just immediately trips again. Could the intellichlor failure be the cause of the interior remote panel not working? Seems the two should work autonomous of one another. The panel is a Pentair easy touch IC20. Pool supply store says I need to replace the intellichlor cell, to the tune of $1000+. Technician is a week away. Could use some help, thank you!
Pentair interior remote panel not working, and intellichlor has no power to it
- Thread starter Pgrossie
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,674
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum.
Let's see if @ogdento can help out on the interior panel.
On the SWCG, post a picture of what you see. Also, if you have Screenlogic, let us know what it says.
Let's see if @ogdento can help out on the interior panel.
On the SWCG, post a picture of what you see. Also, if you have Screenlogic, let us know what it says.
Power down and unplug the indoor panel altogether, leaving just the swcg, and see if the breaker still trips when you power back up. If it does, unplug the swcg and connect only the indoor panel and see if that works. You want to isolate the bad component, but it's also possible that both are bad. Always power down before messing with the comm port.
When something on the comm port won't quite power up, that is a hint that a comm chip is shorted (dead from the lightning strike) and is drawing to much current from the red/black wires on the port... And the port can't supply enough to run anything.
When things won't communicate - but there's no over-current - it could be that a comm chip died in a different way (e.g. the internal driver died) and is interfering with the data transmission on the bus.
In both cases, often you'll find that nothing on the comm port will work, so you connect things one at a time to find out what does work.
When something on the comm port won't quite power up, that is a hint that a comm chip is shorted (dead from the lightning strike) and is drawing to much current from the red/black wires on the port... And the port can't supply enough to run anything.
When things won't communicate - but there's no over-current - it could be that a comm chip died in a different way (e.g. the internal driver died) and is interfering with the data transmission on the bus.
In both cases, often you'll find that nothing on the comm port will work, so you connect things one at a time to find out what does work.
