Pentair Intelliflo 011018 Install Help

[hagotime]

Hi,

I just purchased an Intelliflo 011018 to replace my Hayward single speed unit that just failed. Before I started I was wondering if I could get some advice on ensuring I get the programming correct. The unit was a 1.5 HP pump with 2 inch piping. It runs to an older Compool control panel with analog timers (photo attached). Questions I have are as follows.

1. Other than maybe some 2 inch PVC and connectors anything sticking out for install that will be problematic?

2. Should I set the new pump to just the ON position? Or set it to AUTO and flip all the analog timer selectors to on? I am guessing the first.

3. Will I have issues running this unit with the pool cleaner which will still be on the analog box? My understanding is that I will need to up the RPMs while the pool cleaner is running and just ensure the analog timer unit remains in sync with the Pentair unit digital programming.

4. Recommendations for RPM settings and run times? Pool is a little over 16000 gallons.

5. Am I missing anything here where I should be getting the local pool company to come and install? I've replaced my pool cleaner and an HVAC motor with no problems but I'm more concerned about getting all the settings right on the programming.

Thanks for the help! Cost savings will be about $400 if I'm successful with this so appreciate any guidance or experience/

 

[Jimrahbe]

hago,

The Intelliflo needs to be constantly powered by 220 Volts via a circuit breaker. You do not generally turn the power to this pump off.

The IntelliFlo's only external control is via a serial cable from a Pentair automation system. I don't believe that your older compool system can be used without some major upgrades.

You will need to program the pump via the pump's onboard control panel. You will then need to set your compool system to match the new pump's program. The only downside to this is that you will have to insure that the two systems are keep in sync, time-wise, or set it up to allow for some overlap.

Of course, if this were my pool, the booster pump and pressure side cleaner would be replaced with a Robot...

I would never install a pump without the proper unions.. It appears your old pump has the kind I would use..

Most of the time my Intelliflo runs at 1,200 RPM. If you do this, you will find that you keep walking over to see if the darn thing is running.. it is that quiet!!

Update.. I forgot.. Welcome to TFP.. A Great place to be.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

 

[hagotime]

Jim,

Thanks for the help on this. My local pool place seemed certain they could hook into my Compool though after reading some DIY'ers seems much cheaper to just wire and program myself. I'll just make sure I watch the timer and check after power outages.

 

[hagotime]

I'm complete tracking the extra RPMs for the booster pump and ensuring the time sync. My question is what is the potential damage if this gets out of sync? Will it just be low pressure to the cleaner or will it potentially overheat of cause damage?

Also, what would you recommend for run times at low RPM and for the pool cleaner. I was thinking 2 hours for pool cleaner (2400 RPM?), but wasn't sure about how long to leave it on the rest of the time (22 hours or less?).

 

[Jimrahbe]

hago,

I don't have a booster pump, but would "assume" if the booster was on without the main pump, that the only issue would be the cleaner just would not work. Since you don't have a Saltwater pool, then you only need to run your pump to circulate water and skim the pool. I suggest that you start with 8 hours per day, including the time the cleaner is running. 1,500 RPM for Skimming and 2,500 for the cleaner. If the cleaner is not working you can increase the RPM. You can also adjust the skimming RPM, up or down, depending on how well it works. Once you get that working for your pool, then you can start reducing the run time if you wish.

One of the great things about a variable speed pump is that it costs so little to run at low RPMs, that it would be very hard to see any cost differences between 1,000 RPM, 1,200 RPM, and 1,500 RPM. In my case (I have a SWCG) I run my pump 24/7 and it cost me about $10 per month.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[hagotime]

Placed my order yesterday morning and it was already here, guessing Amazon's Florida warehouses are where these things are at....

Removal of the old pump was easy just undoing the slip sockets. However two issues...hopefully solved!

1. I was confused by the sockets to the new Pentair unit. Instead of having outside threaded male sockets for the slips, they are female threaded 2 inch sockets. Nothing included in the box to solve this.

Found this on Amazon for $22.99 with PRIME... "2 Pack Pump Union 2" MPT x 2" Slip For Pentair IntelliFlo WhisperFlo Pool Pumps

Link: Amazon.com: 2 Pack Pump Union 2 Garden

This includes the MPT and the Slip, but in my case I think I only need the MPT to convert to what I need. Knock on wood that my existing slips are the proper threading......

Could I hit up Pinch a Penny and get tomorrow morning and finish my project??? Sure....but I just hate their markups......hence the self install of the pump and not even bothering to price check these......





2nd Issue: Height of inlet pipe........

So I was thrilled when the piping seemed to line up and I thought my install was going to take no more than 10 minutes from start to finish. Low and behold I realized issue 1. Shortly afte thatr I realized issue 2, the inlet piping was too low to properly connect. By too low I mean about 3/4 an inch??? Significant enough to make it obvious it was going to be a problem, but close enough to just be angry that it wasn't exact......I was expecting all the piping to be completely off......but it was oh so close......

The outgoing line seems to line up perfect, we shall see after I add my 2 inch MPT union and see.....

After some extensive digging around my pipes I have just enough play to raise the inlet the necessary distance to join. The depth of digging wasn't the problem, but I had to run a trench laterally toward my pool to give enough length of pipe to raise the PVC without excessive tugging or breaking.....once all sealed up I'll be able to fill this in. Thought about cutting the three inlet pipes vertically and raising them up with couplings, but I think the slight raise I'm getting from the trench was easier keeping everything lined up and the necessary bend in raising is insignificant to worry me about PVC damage.

Unfortunately my 10 minute install turned into about 1.5 hours between digging and my unsuccessful trip to Lowe's thinking I'd score the right union without special order.

I've attached a photo of my current progress, pump is wired up and ready for unions. And you can see my trench, maybe not enough to withstand mortars, but it was a pain using a little garden hand shovel to avoid pipe damage. Hopefully will be up and running in 2 days....

 

[Pool Clown]

You can definitely run that pump from the Compool. And let it do the switching on and off. This will ensure that you will be in sync with your booster pump in the event of a power loss. Make sure that you have the pump in manual mode, otherwise the pump may want to run its own program during the time that the Compool is sending it voltage.

Pentair does "recommend" that you wire it directly, and that is the best application if you have their automation. However they don't take into consideration the sync problem that may arise from a power loss using time clocks.

Note: The pump has a "power out failure" fault that activates when power is interrupted from the pump. If you let the Compool timer control on and off functions, you will not be impacted by this feature. If you manually turn the pump on, then turn it off, then try to turn it on right away, you will notice that this fault will keep the pump from restarting for about 20 seconds.

 

[hagotime]

Pool Clown,

I've got my pump in a running. Right now I have the Pentair timer set to 6:05-6:55 for 2800RPM overlapping the tabs on the Compool from 615-645 for the Booster Pump. I've noticed the intelliflo keeps time whereas the compool will stop spinning with a power outage. Theortically I have 10 minutes of total outage before I need to fix the booster pump timer. The Compool is set to constant ON for the Pentair pump.

You mentioned I can get the system to work on the Compool timer with manual mode. This would work if when the pump gets power it immediately goes to Speed 3 (raised to 2800 rpm), then shifts to 1500 rpm after 2 hours (could probably eliminate the excess overlap). If set up this way, if the power outage occurred during the booster cycle then I would be fine as the Pentair would just run a little longer at 2800rpm on the restart then kick off like normal with the Compool tabs timing out. What I can't figure out is how to program the Pentair to auto run this in manual mode where I get 2 hours of 2800RPM then 10-16 hours of 1500RPM.....turning this run cycle on simply with power being applied. I think I understand what you are telling me to do, but not sure how to implement it.

 

[Pool Clown]

My remark regarding using manual mode was manual mode on the pump, not on the automation. Manual mode on the pump will only run the pump at one speed (unless you push another preset speed on the pump drive). No automatic changing of speeds. Unless you were to try to run a program off the pump during the time the Compool was supplying power. That would make things kinda complicated, and, in my opinion, un-necessary.

I'm willing to bet that before you had the variable speed pump that your single speed pump kept your pool clear. IOW, there really is no need to run multiple speeds during the day. Yes, it may give you some extra skimming "action" at a higher RPM, but in the configuration you have it set to, you wont be able to have it change speeds during the day. As suggested before, you can use the on-board timer if you really need to have the pump change speeds during the day. My original post was to make you aware of the pitfalls of having it set up that way.

Some here may post that you would need to be able to change speeds during the day to supply enough water to the heater for heating, for the cleaner booster pump or even to satisfy the solar. This is true, but you can set the pump to run at the RPM that would satisfy those conditions, run it at that RPM all day, and STILL save money on electricity. If you don't have solar, you could probably get away with 1800~2200 RPM throughout the daily cycle.

Something to think about:
You could set that pump next to your old single speed pump, ramp it up to where it moves the same amount of water, and you would save 30% on the electricity right off the bat. The speed you would need to set it to, to satisfy the flow requirements of your system, would probably be lower than the speed that your old pump ran at. So that means >30% savings.