Pentair IntelliChlor water chemistry question

[BowserB]

Some time in the next week or so, I'm getting a Pentair IC40 installed. I have the unit now, but the installer is backed up. I've been preparing the water according to TFP recommendations. However, I see the Pentair user manual for the IC series (15, 20, 40, 60) specifies some different values, especially Free Chlorine and CYA from what TFP recommends. Other values agree or at least have some overlapping recommendations, where I can meet both Pentair and TFP, making everyone happy. TFP's free chlorine is more in line with what I've done for the last year with liquid chlorine and CYA at 40. I guess I can shoot for FC of 4, but I don't know about the CYA, where TFP usually suggests much higher than 30-50. Any suggestions? Thanks.

• FC 2-4; CC 0 (TFP recommends FC 4-6)
• pH 7.2-7.8 (TFP 7.2 - 8.0)
• CYA 30-50 ppm (TFP says 60-90)
• TA 80-120 (TFP 50-90)
• CH 200-400 (TFP 350-450)
• TDS 3000-6000 including salt
• Salt 3600-4500 (3600 ideal)
• Metals and nitrates none
• Saturation index -3 - +3 (0 ideal)

 

[mknauss]

Pentair uses standard industry boilerplate for all types of pools, SWCG or not, etc. TFPC Recommended Levels are developed from science and experience. Modified by pool type, SWCG or liquid chlorine, etc.

I strongly recommend you follow TFPC levels. You will have a Trouble Free pool that way.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Bill,

You can either use our way or the Pentair way... Our way works and is based on science while their way is just left over from the 70's..

Up to you, but I have been running three saltwater pools with IC40's for a combined total of almost 25 years.. My first cell lasted over 9 years, my second was over 7 years, and the newest one at my house is over 6 years old and still working fine.. I use the TFP guidelines and in all that time, I have never had to SLAM any of my pools. TFP works and I don't care what Pentair's policy is, I only use what I know works.

My FC usually runs about 7 ppm.. CYA about 70..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[BowserB]

Thanks, Marty and thanks Jim. Jim, you gave me the information that REALLY matters: cell life and no need to SLAM. A couple more questions, if you don't mind, Jim. One--did you do anything special with the IC40s during the big freeze? Two--what pH do you try to keep and how much does it vary? Rainwater here in Katy is odd. Sometimes high pH; sometimes low. I'm guessing the low pH is acid rain when the system comes from the east (Houston), and higher pH when the more typical systems coming from the west.

About 25 years ago, my daughter did a science fair project collecting rain water from different parts of Houston. We drove all over hanging jars on fence posts in the rain or right before, then collecting the next day. It got her in the top five for the school, but I don't remember the results other than the one near the ship channel industries was fairly low pH, as was the one next to the I-10 freeway! A couple of the jars were just gone when we went back.

Thanks again, guys.
Bill

 

[Jimrahbe]

Bill,

My pumps run 24/7, so I did not have to worry about freeze control.. but I was very lucky in that none of my pools lost electrical power during the big freeze. So I had no damage at all.


My pH likes to be at 7.8 or 7.9... I add acid whenever it gets to 8.0 or 8.1 if I'm not paying attention. I only try to drop it to 7.6 or 7.7 as it never stays there too long anyway.

I always try to keep my FC at my "Target" or higher.. This way I do not have to micromanage my output percentage.. If we have a couple of cloudy days, I don't care, I just leave the output alone... I never, ever, try to keep my FC between my minimum and my target that I often see other members trying to do. One, it takes too much effort, and two, it is just too easy to go too low and let algae into the game. I do adjust the output percentage as the weather gets warmer, but that is usually once a month or less, not every day...

Thanks,

Jim R.