New flow switch has 4 wires. Red, Blue, Green, White. It is the after market Optimum Pool Technologies Switch.
Pentair Intellichlor Red Flow Light
- Thread starter kula
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I'd try another flow switch before dropping 1k on a new cell. I just replaced my flow switch on a 6 yr. old IC40 and it works like new now.
Get one from Pool Guy Supply (no affiliation) at $59. Yes, black and blue go together, they're the only 2 left after connecting other 3 wires.
Also a good idea to pick up a spare SWG when you can afford one. I got an IC60 a while back and slapped it in while I was waiting for flow switch.
Too hot in TX to go without a SWG very long.
Get one from Pool Guy Supply (no affiliation) at $59. Yes, black and blue go together, they're the only 2 left after connecting other 3 wires.
Also a good idea to pick up a spare SWG when you can afford one. I got an IC60 a while back and slapped it in while I was waiting for flow switch.
Too hot in TX to go without a SWG very long.
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Thanks Ingenious! I tried the one from Pool Guy Supply and it didn't work. I could try the more expensive pentair OEM one? I think my original flow switch definitely had an issue because temp reading was 100 degrees. My cell only shows 40% of life is used, but I understand that isn't very accurate.
K,
The flow switch has two different parts.. A thermistor to measure water temp, and a simple switch that is open or closed.. These parts have nothing to do with one another and cause two different problems. The water temp sensor can cause the SWCG to think the salt level is either high or low, as the cell uses the water temp to calculate the salt level. The Flow switch tells the cell it is ok to work when there is enough water flow to close the switch.
If you can short the Red and Black/Blue wires coming from the cell together and the flow light does not turn green, a new flow switch will not help.. By shorting the two wires together, you have done the same thing that a flow switch would have done.
The cell life is just an estimate of how much of the cell's chlorine making plates remain. It has nothing to do with other random electronics failures..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The flow switch has two different parts.. A thermistor to measure water temp, and a simple switch that is open or closed.. These parts have nothing to do with one another and cause two different problems. The water temp sensor can cause the SWCG to think the salt level is either high or low, as the cell uses the water temp to calculate the salt level. The Flow switch tells the cell it is ok to work when there is enough water flow to close the switch.
If you can short the Red and Black/Blue wires coming from the cell together and the flow light does not turn green, a new flow switch will not help.. By shorting the two wires together, you have done the same thing that a flow switch would have done.
The cell life is just an estimate of how much of the cell's chlorine making plates remain. It has nothing to do with other random electronics failures..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Nice thanks Jim! I think its definitely dead. I think I will wait till next year to replace it. Hopefully prices will come down.
Hey Kula !!!
I’m not happy with the connectors in post #10. The one with the orange side facing you (no wires visible) looks to be half squeezed. It’s difficult to make those pop into place without the tool they are designed for. Certain channel lock pliers do better than others but you want that orange top part completely flush with the clear plastic or the metal inside doesn’t pierce the wires fully.
I’d replace them with wire nuts that you can guarantee a good connection with before you give up for the season. It will take 2 minutes and rule out an easy goof.
I’m not happy with the connectors in post #10. The one with the orange side facing you (no wires visible) looks to be half squeezed. It’s difficult to make those pop into place without the tool they are designed for. Certain channel lock pliers do better than others but you want that orange top part completely flush with the clear plastic or the metal inside doesn’t pierce the wires fully.
I’d replace them with wire nuts that you can guarantee a good connection with before you give up for the season. It will take 2 minutes and rule out an easy goof.
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Hi @Newdude I was going to try the wire nuts. But I put back in the old flow switch a few days ago and after being red for a few days its magically green again (I doubt it will last). Very strange what's going on here.
"Here is a diagram... If you actually have a Blue wire, it needs to go to the Black... If the Red, Green, and White are correct, the Blue has to go to the Black.
Temp probe hack.jpg
- Jimrahbe
- Jan 9, 2021
- ""
- All this is fine a good. However, has someone looked at stripping the wires on the IC 40 side and actually seeing them if they are Okay. I had changed out the flow switch. Jumping the Red/Black(blue) wire on the IC 40 side did not turn the flow light on. I then stripped the wires and notices black corrosion on both the original wires. I cleaned them and I am temporarily testing them with a wire nut.
- I am surprised that no one mentioned the corrosion problem on original cell wires.
Sorry everyone, I was not aware how to embed previous messages. All the recommendations are impressive and I was very happy to find the very ordered diagnostic methods listed along with the wiring diagram.
However, no one had mentioned the corrosion of the copper wires. It is simple by stripping the wires on the IC 40 side and actually seeing them if they are Okay.
I had changed out the flow switch. Jumping the Red/Black(blue) wire on the IC 40 side did not turn the flow light on. I then stripped the wires and notices black corrosion on both the original wires. I cleaned them and I am temporarily testing them with a wire nut. The lights are on and it seems to be generating the chlorine.
I am surprised that no one mentioned the corrosion problem on original cell wires.
However, no one had mentioned the corrosion of the copper wires. It is simple by stripping the wires on the IC 40 side and actually seeing them if they are Okay.
I had changed out the flow switch. Jumping the Red/Black(blue) wire on the IC 40 side did not turn the flow light on. I then stripped the wires and notices black corrosion on both the original wires. I cleaned them and I am temporarily testing them with a wire nut. The lights are on and it seems to be generating the chlorine.
I am surprised that no one mentioned the corrosion problem on original cell wires.
I put the old flow switch back and after a few days magically working. For the most part consistently green especially if it's really hot outside like 100 degrees. Sometimes in the morning it is red though.
I will take a look at potential for corrosion if it starts failing again.
I will take a look at potential for corrosion if it starts failing again.
It is a factor which requires a serious look at. I have never seen corrosion on the metal inside the insulated wires contained inside an outer jacket. This was my first time ever!
Please check it for black coating. Surprisingly, it was not a solid wire, it was stranded and the corrosion had permiated in all strands of wire: Amazing!
Please check it for black coating. Surprisingly, it was not a solid wire, it was stranded and the corrosion had permiated in all strands of wire: Amazing!