Pentair intellichlor model ic40 just replaced but it isn't generating chlorine?

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Pkern

Pkern

Active member
May 1, 2020
27
Flower Mound, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi All,

I had a 10 year old salt cell that want kaput... So I bought a new one - and it isn't generating much chlorine. All lights are working properly, it is set at 100 percent, salt measures 3400. CYA is at 70 or 80, PH at 70, - and I suspect a bad salt cell. Is there anything else it could be? It is still under warranty. Thanks in advance.
Paul
 
Paul, it may be a bad cell….or it may be organics in your pool are using the chlorine your cell produces as fast as it can produce….whats the water look like? Have you performed an OCLT? Have you made any major chemical adjustments…CH….CYA?
 
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Great - here they are - I just tested tonight. Chlorine, 1.0; PH 7.55; Salt 3400 (I added two bags after last entry) CH 375; Alk, 80; CYA 70
Thanks in advance!
 
Lake Placid said:
Paul, it may be a bad cell….or it may be organics in your pool are using the chlorine your cell produces as fast as it can produce….whats the water look like? Have you performed an OCLT? Have you made any major chemical adjustments…CH….CYA?
Click to expand...
No OCLY - will do that tonight. Other than that, no major adjustments - it has been cruising along well - just low on chlorine. Water looks mostly clear - a little sediment. Like dusty (I live in TX) TIA!
 
TinFoilHat said:
Paul, put your pool particulars into your signature so we know what your equipment is and how large the pool is. Do you have one of the recommended test kits? If so then post your readings because you can't just guess at them.
Test Kits Compared
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I do have the recommended kit - T100 I believe, with the spinner/stirrer. Signature on the way.
 
What are you testing with that gets you a PH of 7.55? Test strips? Your FC is super low and for a CYA of 70 you should be between 5-10 FC for saltwater with your goal to be on the high side. I would add a gallon of liquid chlorine and use PoolMath to track it so you know what your FC should be 30 mins later.
 
Pkern said:
No OCLY - will do that tonight. Other than that, no major adjustments - it has been cruising along well - just low on chlorine. Water looks mostly clear - a little sediment. Like dusty (I live in TX) TIA!
Click to expand...
I suspect the sediment you’re seeing is more than dust….😱 perform the OCLT and report back. We can go from there. 👍
 
TinFoilHat said:
What are you testing with that gets you a PH of 7.55? Test strips? Your FC is super low and for a CYA of 70 you should be between 5-10 FC for saltwater with your goal to be on the high side. I would add a gallon of liquid chlorine and use PoolMath to track it so you know what your FC should be 30 mins later.
Click to expand...
I have an electronic tester - it measures salt and PH - I checked the accuracy by comparing it to the Leslies result - and it was good. Here's the model and info from the receipt:

Pool Salt Tester & PH Meter, Hofun Digital Salinity Meter and PH Tester for Aquarium and Pool Saltwater Water, 5 in 1 Salinity PH Temp EC and TDS Meter, Aquarium Swimming Pool Hot Tub, High Accuracy​

 

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Pkern said:
I have an electronic tester - it measures salt and PH - I checked the accuracy by comparing it to the Leslies result - and it was good. Here's the model and info from the receipt:

Pool Salt Tester & PH Meter, Hofun Digital Salinity Meter and PH Tester for Aquarium and Pool Saltwater Water, 5 in 1 Salinity PH Temp EC and TDS Meter, Aquarium Swimming Pool Hot Tub, High Accuracy​

Click to expand...
Digital Test meters are fine so long as you find a reliable one. However I’d recommend you verify its readings with your own reliable test kit. Leslies is known to be completely unreliable. You can be as accurate by blindfolding yourself and throwing darts at a board with PH and salinity values stuck to it….🤣 Do you have the tf100 or tf100 salt?
 
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Paul,

Try this test...

Set the cell's output to 50%.. Then watch the 'Cell" light.. If the cell light comes on for about 2.5 minutes and then is off for about 2.5 minutes and it keeps repeating the cycle, then the cell is making chlorine.

I suspect the cell is just fine and that you have algae.

Also.. You should never expect the cell to start from zero chlorine.. You need to get as much Liquid Chlorine into your pool to get your FC up to between 5 and 10 ppm... Then do the OCLT.. you can't do the OCLT with 1 or 2 ppm of FC in your pool.. Also.. the SWCG MUST be off when you do the OCLT.

As a side note.. How long do you run your pump each day.

You say your CYA is at 70.. When was the last time you tested it?

What FC level do you normally try to maintain??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Hi All,

Thank you for the support! It did the overnight test for chlorine and it dropped from 3.5 to 1.5. I am using the TF100 Salt tester, by the way. I did the test as recommended. Turned the salt cell to zero. Added around a gallon of chlorine last night, ran the pump and cleaner for 45 minutes and checked the level. 3.5. This morning, the chlorine is at 1.5.



As a side note.. How long do you run your pump each day. - It is a variable pump, so I run it at 1200 RPMs 24/7, and run it at 3000 for 3.5 hours at night.

You say your CYA is at 70.. When was the last time you tested it? Yesterday

What FC level do you normally try to maintain?? I have been trying to maintain chlorine around 5-7.

Thanks,

Jim R. _Thank you Jim! And everyone else. I think it is time for a SLAM?
 
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