Pentair IC20 Premature Failure – Questions

Apr 17, 2012
176
Southeast Louisiana
A few weeks ago the "Cell" light on my IC20 began to blink slowly, and the diagnostics screen on the EasyTouch says "Clean Cell!!!". Pulled the cell, and saw no visible calcium scaling, but went ahead and added diluted acid as instructed, and saw no fizzing.

So, it seems that the cell has failed. It was installed in 2012, so I got about 4 years use out of it, which sounds like it's at the low side of life expectancy but not alarmingly so. However, checking the usage of the cell, it indicates only approximately 4000 hours (out of an expected 10,000). I'm going to use other chlorination for right now, and will probably replace the cell in the Spring. But in the meantime, any ideas as to what could have caused the premature failure, especially given that there is no evidence of calcium scaling? Of course maybe it simply "failed". But I do have a few purely speculative ideas.

For instance, will occasional very high chlorine levels affect the cell? Usually once or twice a year I have to go through a mustard algae shock if I inadvertently let my FC drift a little too low, which means elevating FC with bleach and/or cal hypo in the neighborhood of 30-40 for several days.

Another concern is chlorine generation in cold weather. I keep it active until it hits the point of going into cold water cutoff mode (which I think is 50 degrees), at which time I use other chlorination sources. But now I'm wondering if perhaps water that is not quite cold enough to trigger cutoff is still not good for the cell... is it possible that salt generation in, say, 60 degree water also is not great for the cell (even though it's above the cutoff threshold)?

Lastly, a related question about the replacement cell. I know the common suggestion is to go with a higher capacity cell (IC40 in my case), as it will run half the time that the IC20 would need to for the same level of chlorine, and hypothetically last twice as long, making it a financially sensible choice. However, the failure of my IC20 with only 40% of its estimated lifespan used up has me questioning this. I guess the best way to put this is, if I'd had an IC40 installed originally instead of an IC20, would the IC40 now be failed after 4 years (with only 20% of its lifespan used), or would I have gotten another 4 years (or longer) out of it?

I know there's no way to answer that, but what I'm wondering is how much of a cell's eventual failure results from the amount of time spent actually generating chlorine, compared to "idle" time when water is simply passing through it?
 
My last cell lasted me 10 years and I would run it until the cold turned off as well so I don't think that is an issue. Nor do I think high FC levels be a problem although you shouldn't FC drift so low. Maybe set your target a bit higher to allow for some drift.

I think the biggest issues with short cell life is the PH, scaling and frequency of acid cleaning. How often did you soak the cell in acid?
 
My last cell lasted me 10 years and I would run it until the cold turned off as well so I don't think that is an issue. Nor do I think high FC levels be a problem although you shouldn't FC drift so low. Maybe set your target a bit higher to allow for some drift.

I think the biggest issues with short cell life is the PH, scaling and frequency of acid cleaning. How often did you soak the cell in acid?

Thanks for the response. I do aim to keep my FC a few ppm higher than recommended, though on occasion I've forgotten to increase the SWG when the temps warm up (though after several bouts with mustard algae in my first year or two, I've gotten more vigilant about it).

My pH is typically about 7.4-7.6, though in the off season I don't check it as often as I should perhaps, so it may have occasionally drifted up as high as 7.8 or 8.0 before being brought back down to 7.2. Perhaps I should keep a closer eye on that. I've rarely acid-cleaned the cell... only once before that I can remember, and only because the sticker on the unit said to (not because of any specific symptoms), but when I saw no visible evidence of scaling nor any fizzing when the acid solution was added, I did not clean it again until it stopped working a few weeks ago.

So, perhaps it was just a fluke?
 
I am not that familiar with Intellichlor but for the Goldline units, "Clean Cell' is based only on run time and nothing else so if you just reset the the SWG, everything is fine. Is there a reset for that warning? Also, usually a low salt warning when salt levels are fine is more indicative of cell failure.

Try this: Intellichlor IC40 -Cleaned Cell Green Light Still Flashing
 
Do you have the version # of your cell? There was a change in the design of the cell around the time you installed it so it would be helpful to know if you had a newer version or older version. You can typically find the placard for the model information on the bottom of the cell.
 
I am not that familiar with Intellichlor but for the Goldline units, "Clean Cell' is based only on run time and nothing else so if you just reset the the SWG, everything is fine. Is there a reset for that warning? Also, usually a low salt warning when salt levels are fine is more indicative of cell failure.

Try this: Intellichlor IC40 -Cleaned Cell Green Light Still Flashing
I read somewhere that the "clean cell" indication is prompted by the unit detecting some kind of problem with chlorine generation rather than just a run-time calculation. The manual makes no mention of any kind of reset need to clear the warning, but I will try the suggestion in that thread of switching off the breaker for a while.

Also, forgot to mention a couple of other small details... the cell light does come on solid for several minutes after the unit is first turned on, but then begins to blink (which indicates cleaning is needed). Lastly, I called Pentair last week, and they said the failure could have been caused by phosphates in the water.

- - - Updated - - -

Do you have the version # of your cell? There was a change in the design of the cell around the time you installed it so it would be helpful to know if you had a newer version or older version. You can typically find the placard for the model information on the bottom of the cell.

Version is 3.01.
 
OK, that version is similar to mine (IC40). Mine has been running for about 4 years now without issue and gets no scale. I sincerely doubt the phosphate explanation but equipment manufacturers have latched onto phosphates as the cause of all pool equipment problems.

Sounds like some kind of premature failure in the cell given it's runtime hours...BUT...not it's physical age. Most SWG manufacturers will state that a cell is good for 3-5 years. So to Pentair, while you did not get as much chlorine out of the cell as they would claim from the 10,000 hour operational life, it's probably in the average of their cell life expectancy.

All I can say is that there was a recent operational and front panel update to their ver 3.01 cells. There's now the ability to select outputs as low as 2%-10% and their duty cycle is now measured against a 5min baseline, meaning that the % output is the fractional amount the cell is ON within a 5 min period. Prior to that, the duty cycle was measured in a 1 hour cycle. Perhaps they've changed the duty cycle in response to better output performance with a shorter time period but I'm not exactly sure on that.

I would definitely suggest the bigger cell (IC-40 or IC-60) as you will run it less and running the cell less extends it's life (assuming your water chemistry stays properly balanced and the cell isn't exposed to corrosive, low pH levels).
 
Thanks for all the helpful info. I did just do one last-ditch cleaning effort, with another diluted acid soak (again, no fizzing, just a few tiny bubbles), rinse, and then a cleaning with a detergent solution. As before, I was hopeful at first because it initially looked like it worked, with the cell light coming on after the startup process was complete, but then started blinking after 5 minutes or so.

I'll likely go with the IC40 in the Spring. To be extra cautious, I might even keep the busted IC20 to use as a dummy cell at the end of next Summer, pack the IC40 away, and and chlorinate with pucks over the off-season. I recognize the concern over CYA build-up with trichlor, but I always end up having to add a lot of stabilizer in the Spring anyway (due to draining excess water after rain).
 
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