Pentair cartridge filter

[Michael.c]

After struggling for over a year taking the original drain plug on/off to clean ou the bottom of the filter, I decided to make a better solution. 1.5” 90degree threaded elbow slightly trimmed off to screw it in with a short pipe and a valve
wish Pentair would also make a quick release for the lid too.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Michael,

Good idea.. but... How often do you clean your filter?

I only clean mine twice a year, so there is not much "struggling" going on.. I'm sure I could go once a year, but my OCD just won't let me..

I totally agree that Pentair could have done a much better job about where the drain plug is located. :thumbdown:

Thanks for posting your idea..

Jim R.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Thanks for sharing. It's always nice to see options for doing something easier.


.

 

[JamesW]

Be sure to put some sort of support block under the pipe.

One step and it's going to break off in a bad way.

 

[tstex]

Does any manufacturer make a cartridge system where the drain plug is located in a place convenience???? Mine is in the back up against a stucco wall and it's a beach getting to it. In order to retrofit it w anything, I would have to unscrew both unions and pull it out and work in an open view It's like yoga or twister getting to that plug in the back, bent over at an angle and then have to side-step all the plumbing at your feet...crazy !!!!

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Michael, after looking at your drain again, I would do something to see if I could lock that shut-off valve...if anyone wanted to really cause some damage, like a young kid by curiosity alone, opening that shutoff valve could really drain your pool fast to the skimmer level, but even worse if you pool was set to the main drain.

 

[Michael.c]

The filter needs cleaning every month, sometimes more when algae blooms. A bunch of organic matter is always found rotening in the bottom of the plug.

Michael,

Good idea.. but... How often do you clean your filter?

I only clean mine twice a year, so there is not much "struggling" going on.. I'm sure I could go once a year, but my OCD just won't let me..

I totally agree that Pentair could have done a much better job about where the drain plug is located. :thumbdown:

Thanks for posting your idea..

Jim R.

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[Michael.c]

Does any manufacturer make a cartridge system where the drain plug is located in a place convenience???? Mine is in the back up against a stucco wall and it's a beach getting to it. In order to retrofit it w anything, I would have to unscrew both unions and pull it out and work in an open view It's like yoga or twister getting to that plug in the back, bent over at an angle and then have to side-step all the plumbing at your feet...crazy !!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Michael, after looking at your drain again, I would do something to see if I could lock that shut-off valve...if anyone wanted to really cause some damage, like a young kid by curiosity alone, opening that shutoff valve could really drain your pool fast to the skimmer level, but even worse if you pool was set to the main drain.

would probably have to secure the drain to waist valve as well then. Surprisingly, this ball valve requires a fair amount of strength to twist.

 

[wogster]

The filter needs cleaning every month, sometimes more when algae blooms. A bunch of organic matter is always found rotening in the bottom of the plug.

I'm surprised they don't thread the filter drain for a boiler drain valve or a hose bib, as installing one of these and a length of garden hose would allow you to redirect water somewhere else, like to a drain, rather then dumping the water near an electric pump motor and electronic control panel... If you follow TFP you shouldn't have algae blooms....

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[Jimrahbe]

The filter needs cleaning every month, sometimes more when algae blooms. A bunch of organic matter is always found rotening in the bottom of the plug.

Michael,

You have a chemical issue with your pool water... I suspect your CYA is out of sight high and you are trying to run your FC at 1 or 2 ppm.. but, at this point that is just a guess...

I suggest you read though our Pool School and see what we are all about. Pool School - Pool School

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I'm surprised they don't thread the filter drain for a boiler drain valve or a hose bib, as installing one of these and a length of garden hose would allow you to redirect water somewhere else, like to a drain, rather then dumping the water near an electric pump motor and electronic control panel...

I agree. If I open the drain plug on my CCP520, I then have a mess on my concrete pad which I have to clean up.

Therefore, I never open the drain plug. I use my wet/dry shop vac to suck the crud out of the bottom of the filter and dispose of it in a more suitable spot.

 

[Michael.c]

Michael,

You have a chemical issue with your pool water... I suspect your CYA is out of sight high and you are trying to run your FC at 1 or 2 ppm.. but, at this point that is just a guess...

I suggest you read though our Pool School and see what we are all about. Pool School - Pool School

Thanks,

Jim R.

here’s what I have:
PH 7.5
FC 12.5 drifting down from shock at 26ppm
CYA 70
TA 100
CH 240
Salt 3800
Phospahtes 0

it had passed the overnight chlorine loss test. Brushing every other day. Today brushed off a few patches of green. How in the world is algae living in FC of 12?
chlorine levels in general never drop below 7ppm even when CYA dropped in the 30’s. Cartridge filter gets cleaned every 2 weeks to take out green. New filter replaced 2 months ago.
took sample water to store to confirm my readings. Was suggested an algaecide which I added today out of desperation.

 

[tstex]

Michael,

I can surely see that if it were a true biweekly requirement of cleaning out your filters that I would indeed devise a better disposal method of the bottom half of your filter tank. However, having to clean it every 2 weeks is indeed a chemical balancing issue, not a filter issue.

W a CYA of 70, your FC ratio to kill mustard algae might be in the 40-50 range [mental math]. Therefore, you need to drain your pool to get CYA down to 40, then examine your true FC/CYA ration to determine your mustard algae FC level then perform your OCLT test. Cleaning filters every 2 weeks would drive me insane and I would drive my wife and girls crazy too.

So, if you have only 7k gal, drain 1/2 of it, then refill and test your CYA. You can go ahead and dump in a gal of bleach too w the refill just to keep your mustard algae at bay, but know that it's only a buffer/precursor to what our real FC requirements will be once you determine them. Mustard Algae requires doubling FC's as opposed to normal algae. Once you run your FC at high levels for 2 days, brush everything twice a day, then do your OCLT. Once you get stable OCLT tests for 2-3 days, clean your new filters and you should be good to go. I would recommend keeping your FC levels in the 10-12 range for maybe 4-5 days after your higher levels start to descend bc this will hopefully kill any possibly newer spores...then as Jim stated, you can clean those filters 2 times per year.

Finally, if you do not have hair nets installed in you skimmer baskets, do that too...this REALLY catches TONS OF DEBRIS that would otherwise go to your filter and further reduce your need for filter cleaning. Do a search on the site here for thread alluding to the hair nets, but they are basically white polyspun hairnets and go for 100 for 5-6 bucks...you will never ever regret that investment.

Good luck my friend and Merry Christmas to the Islands - tstex

 

[Michael.c]

Michael,

I can surely see that if it were a true biweekly requirement of cleaning out your filters that I would indeed devise a better disposal method of the bottom half of your filter tank. However, having to clean it every 2 weeks is indeed a chemical balancing issue, not a filter issue.

W a CYA of 70, your FC ratio to kill mustard algae might be in the 40-50 range [mental math]. Therefore, you need to drain your pool to get CYA down to 40, then examine your true FC/CYA ration to determine your mustard algae FC level then perform your OCLT test. Cleaning filters every 2 weeks would drive me insane and I would drive my wife and girls crazy too.

So, if you have only 7k gal, drain 1/2 of it, then refill and test your CYA. You can go ahead and dump in a gal of bleach too w the refill just to keep your mustard algae at bay, but know that it's only a buffer/precursor to what our real FC requirements will be once you determine them. Mustard Algae requires doubling FC's as opposed to normal algae. Once you run your FC at high levels for 2 days, brush everything twice a day, then do your OCLT. Once you get stable OCLT tests for 2-3 days, clean your new filters and you should be good to go. I would recommend keeping your FC levels in the 10-12 range for maybe 4-5 days after your higher levels start to descend bc this will hopefully kill any possibly newer spores...then as Jim stated, you can clean those filters 2 times per year.

Finally, if you do not have hair nets installed in you skimmer baskets, do that too...this REALLY catches TONS OF DEBRIS that would otherwise go to your filter and further reduce your need for filter cleaning. Do a search on the site here for thread alluding to the hair nets, but they are basically white polyspun hairnets and go for 100 for 5-6 bucks...you will never ever regret that investment.

Good luck my friend and Merry Christmas to the Islands - tstex

FC shock done up to 26ppm while cya was at 30. Raised cya up to 70 after colt passed. Shouldn’t that be good?
I can’t drain the pool halfway easily btw- it would go to storm water drain which require no chlorine and a city permit. The algeacide I put in yesterday seems to have helped for today at least.
What size hair nets should I use? Do you have an online recommendation? The skimmer has a basket but only catches water coming in from the top but the other half sucks water from the deep end of the pool which bypasses the basket. I could put a hair net in the pump basket but that’s not practical to clean. Thanks for your help.

 

[tstex]

Here you go on hairnets. Also, switch your settings to 80-90% skimmers and 20-10% main drain.

Disposable Hair Net, Spun-Bonded Polypropylene, White, 100 per Bag (Pack of 2) - - Amazon.com

I really cannot give you a good opinion on an Algacides, but most of the folks on here prefer not to use them. Others can chime in...

Tough position on CL release and permits. CYA does not evaporate, it can only be removed by draining and flooding which removes at weaker concentrations. I would perform 2-3 more CYA tests and insure you have accurate readings. Just make sure your adding bleach only and not using any tablets of any kind / good luck