So my pool is only about 45 days old and the PB installed an aqualumin III light. I asked about LED options when writing the contract, and they were adamant the Aqualumin III was superior in performance and would light the pool better. After 30 days I noticed what I first thought was algae forming on the bottom part of the light but after brushing it off and seeing it reform the exact same way I pulled the light off and found rust forming on the back of the housing, specifically around the screws holding the light lens and housing together. No other metal in the pool is showing any discoloration / corrosion. I called the PB and they immediately replaced the light with no resistance at all. I have since worried the new light would be manufactured the same way (same flaws) and would start to corrode so I pulled it off this morning and found it was starting to do the same thing. I immediately eliminated the two major causes - water chemistry and stray current. My water chemistry has been near perfect since day 1 via TFP methods, and I have checked the water / light / j-box for stray current with the light on and off with zero current detected.
I found others had the same problem with their Aqualumin lights and many have suggested replacing the 10 retaining screws on the back with different stainless steel options. I purchased some 304/18-8 stainless screws this morning and am going to change them out, but I found some articles talking about stainless steel corrosion in stagnant and low oxygen water environments. What I realized is the plastic disk that fills the gap between the light fixture and the pool wall leaves the spaces behind the light essentially sealed in the sense it has zero circulation and would likely cause a change in PH and a decrease in oxygen in the water captured behind the light, based on my laymen understanding of chemistry.
So my thought is to take a rotary sanding disk on a dremel and make half circle reliefs around the bottom half of the plastic spacer where it meets the wall, which would allow water to flow through the fixture and eliminate the stagnant condition behind the light. Does anyone with a better understanding think this may be effective?
This link is an amazon review from another person that details my issue exactly, with pictures. Amazon.com: Customer reviews: Pentair 78864200 AquaLumin III Nicheless Vinyl Liner Pool and Spa Light, 250-Watt, 120-Volt, 50-Feet Cord Length
I found others had the same problem with their Aqualumin lights and many have suggested replacing the 10 retaining screws on the back with different stainless steel options. I purchased some 304/18-8 stainless screws this morning and am going to change them out, but I found some articles talking about stainless steel corrosion in stagnant and low oxygen water environments. What I realized is the plastic disk that fills the gap between the light fixture and the pool wall leaves the spaces behind the light essentially sealed in the sense it has zero circulation and would likely cause a change in PH and a decrease in oxygen in the water captured behind the light, based on my laymen understanding of chemistry.
So my thought is to take a rotary sanding disk on a dremel and make half circle reliefs around the bottom half of the plastic spacer where it meets the wall, which would allow water to flow through the fixture and eliminate the stagnant condition behind the light. Does anyone with a better understanding think this may be effective?
This link is an amazon review from another person that details my issue exactly, with pictures. Amazon.com: Customer reviews: Pentair 78864200 AquaLumin III Nicheless Vinyl Liner Pool and Spa Light, 250-Watt, 120-Volt, 50-Feet Cord Length
