- Jul 17, 2024
- 2
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello all,
New to this forum and trying to diagnose an issue with my pentair IC40 salt water chlorinator. There was a lot of information from a thread about 2 years ago with great information from @Dirk and @Jimrahbe. Hoping one of them, or someone else can chime in to help.
Here's my scenario...Noticed a little algae developing in pool and checked chemicals. No chlorine! Then checked pentair app to see about increasing salt chlorinator output. App showed salt level 3500 and Intellichlor output 25%. Now I go to physical salt cell and notice no lights.
***So Dang Frustrating that the Pentair app had no indication/warning that the salt cell wasn't even powered on. ugh!!! That's another problem for a later time.***
I go to Intellicenter control panel and notice 12amp low voltage breaker tripped. Re-engage breaker and immediately trips again. Go to Google to find possible fix. Directed to troublefreepool and find thread from 2022 describing same issue.
No obvious burn marks on circuit boards. Next, I watched the youtube video on that thread and did a volt test and found it is wired correctly for 120V. Next, 120V confirmed to the filter pump load. I do a load test on circuit board which results in 26V. In the video it says the transformer should have somewhere from 30-35V coming from the transformer for the salt cell.
So 1) Should the transformer have 30-35V on a 120V load compared to a 240V load in the video? (Im not an electrician so hopefully that doesn't come off as a silly question).
2) If 120V should still have 30-35V load from the transformer my guess is to continue following video and replace the circuit board?
3) However, If 26V is within acceptable range for 120V load, then what are my next steps? Does this mean my transformer is bad and maybe the circuit board too?
Side note is that all equipment is likely out of warranty I'm assuming. Installed just about 5 years ago.
Thanks in advance for everyone's expertise!!
Jeramy
(Arroyo Grande, Ca)
New to this forum and trying to diagnose an issue with my pentair IC40 salt water chlorinator. There was a lot of information from a thread about 2 years ago with great information from @Dirk and @Jimrahbe. Hoping one of them, or someone else can chime in to help.
Here's my scenario...Noticed a little algae developing in pool and checked chemicals. No chlorine! Then checked pentair app to see about increasing salt chlorinator output. App showed salt level 3500 and Intellichlor output 25%. Now I go to physical salt cell and notice no lights.
***So Dang Frustrating that the Pentair app had no indication/warning that the salt cell wasn't even powered on. ugh!!! That's another problem for a later time.***
I go to Intellicenter control panel and notice 12amp low voltage breaker tripped. Re-engage breaker and immediately trips again. Go to Google to find possible fix. Directed to troublefreepool and find thread from 2022 describing same issue.
No obvious burn marks on circuit boards. Next, I watched the youtube video on that thread and did a volt test and found it is wired correctly for 120V. Next, 120V confirmed to the filter pump load. I do a load test on circuit board which results in 26V. In the video it says the transformer should have somewhere from 30-35V coming from the transformer for the salt cell.
So 1) Should the transformer have 30-35V on a 120V load compared to a 240V load in the video? (Im not an electrician so hopefully that doesn't come off as a silly question).
2) If 120V should still have 30-35V load from the transformer my guess is to continue following video and replace the circuit board?
3) However, If 26V is within acceptable range for 120V load, then what are my next steps? Does this mean my transformer is bad and maybe the circuit board too?
Side note is that all equipment is likely out of warranty I'm assuming. Installed just about 5 years ago.
Thanks in advance for everyone's expertise!!
Jeramy
(Arroyo Grande, Ca)