Paralevel Install Parts List?

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Stoopalini

Stoopalini

Gold Supporter
Jun 8, 2020
590
Central Texas
Pool Size
14060
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When installing a Paralevel, what else is needed for proper operation?

Is it:
  • T fitting to existing waterline
  • Cut-off valve
  • Backflow preventer
  • PRV
  • Lanscaping box with the cut-off valve, backflow preventer, and PRV inside
  • Paralevel unit
Is that about it, and is the order correct?

My PB had spec'ed an autofill for about $2000, which I had them remove. But when I was speaking with my construction manager, he said if I bought the autolevel parts, he would have no issue with his crew installing them during plumbing.

So I want to make sure I have everything I need for a proper installation on hand.

I already have a brand new WATTS N55B-M1 PRV as well as a brass cut-off valve. Will these suffice for this purpose? The PRV will go down to 25 PSI, is that low enough for the Paralevel operation?

1594652601734.png
 
I just did a bit more reading, and it appears the Zurn Wilkins 12-720a Pressure Vacuum Breaker Assembly would meet the backflow requirement. It just needs to be installed 12" above the pool's waterline.

My home does have a PRV at the street, although a water gauge on an outdoor spicket reads 90PSI. I see the Paralevel has a max operating pressure of 80PSI. So I do think it would be wise to install the separate PRV for this, and since I already have a new one on hand, no big deal.

My equipment pad will be about 40' from the pool, around the corner of my house, and my water softener loop actually passes right next to where the equipment pad is being placed. So my thought was to intercept the soft water line at that point, install a cutoff valve and the PRV underground in an irrigation box, then come up beside the equipment pad and have the backflow preventer right next to the equipment pad. Then go back underground and run the 1/2" fill line through the trench to the Paralevel, next to the skimmer.

Here's the general layout. The equipment pad is about 12" above the pool's waterline already.

1594659183168.png


And here is what I'm proposing ...
  • 1.25" tee
  • Reduce to 3/4"
  • 3/4" cutoff valve
  • 3/4" PRV
  • Reduce to 1/2"
  • Wilkins 12-720a back flow preventer
  • 1/2" PVC to Paralevel

1594659460157.png

Is this the proper way to install this, or am I missing something?

Thanks!
 
That will work. Just don't bury sharkbites unless you can get to them. Definitely use a PRV autofills dont like high water pressure. 50 to 60 is normal for most areas. What type of pool? Remember softened water adds salt so usually not recommended and will eat up your salt supply much faster
 
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jimmythegreek said:
That will work. Just don't bury sharkbites unless you can get to them. Definitely use a PRV autofills dont like high water pressure. 50 to 60 is normal for most areas. What type of pool? Remember softened water adds salt so usually not recommended and will eat up your salt supply much faster
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply .... I just finished getting most of it installed in preparation for the crew coming tomorrow, and came inside and saw your post.

I have a 19" x 14" irrigation box to go over this, and I laid it out so it'll all be within the box. I plan to extend the 1/2" PVC on the right, out of the irrigation box, and come up against the house, where I'll have the pressure vacuum breaker, as well as a spigot. Then I'll bring the output of the pressure vacuum breaker back down, and through the irrigation box, and stub it in the trench off for the crew to tap into for the Paralevel.

1594780515829.png

I did tap into the softened water pipe though. The pool will be sanitized with the PB tabs during stabilization and plaster curing, and then I was planning to switch to either liquid chlorine injection, or SWG. I'm leaning towards SWG right now.

The amount of sodium a softener adds is pretty small, correct? It exchanges hardness for Na, but no Cl ... If I remember correctly, I think our hardness was around 8 ... and if so, that's about 16mg of Na (sodium) per 8oz of water. Will that be a problem with the pool? I realize the SWG takes NaCl and creates chlorine ... but am unsure if extra Na will cause an issue.

In terms of the softener regenerating more often and consuming the softener salt, how much evaporation should I expect in Texas summers? We will have a waterfall, so I get that will cause a higher rate of evaporation. I do have a fairly large softener, as I oversized it quite a bit when we had it installed becasue I wanted to be able to go longer between regenerations.

Should I move the tap over to the hard water pipe instead?

FYI: I received my TF100 test kit today, and plan to test our water, so I'll know what I'm starting with. I can't test the softened water yet though, as the softener loop lines were broken during the pool excavation and I haven't been able to get it fixed yet.
 
So after reading a bunch more, I think I'm going to leave the tap on the soft water for now. It seems it's better than introducing the calcium and other hardness in my coop water into the pool.

I ended up finishing it out today, and it's ready for the Paralevel hookup. I decided to place a spigot at this location, since the equipment pad will go right next to it. It also provided a convenient place to check the pressure, and I was able to dial it in to exactly 60PSI.

I also installed another cutoff valve on the line which will go to the Paralevel. So if anything ever goes wrong with the Paralevel itself, I can cut the water supply off to it, but keep water supply to the spigot.

Thanks for the input! :)

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jimmythegreek said:
Looks good. I didn't realize you were in TX. I'm assuming a plaster pool so you are trading one for the other either way. Leave it be and see what the usage ends up being. Can always change later if needed
Click to expand...

Ya, central Texas with a gunite + PebbleSheen pool.

I tested my coop water last night and got:
  • pH = 7.3
  • FC = 1.5
  • CC = 0.5
  • CH = 300ppm
When our water softener loop lines were broken during excavation, I bypassed the loop so we could still have water in the house. We immediately noticed a chlorine smell to the water, so I wasn't so surprised to see the FC and CC numbers of the coop's water ... I do have a carbon filter in the fridge, and we've been using that for drinking until the loop is fixed.

It's the 300CH (plus whatever other hardness items may be present) which makes me think the soft water is the better choice for the auto fill.

I appreciate your input!
 
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