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schnoz

Member
Jun 2, 2024
5
Indiana
Hi all,

I'm a fairly new pool owner, but I've been studying up a ton on here and other places. I've also been bouncing ideas off of a person that a friend referred to us who has been keeping care of hotel pools for 30 years. Yet, I've come across an issue I can't figure out.

We just opened pool since having it closed for winter and we dumped somewhere near 15 gallons of chlorine in over the span of a week because it was in bad shape. The water is finally starting to clear up, but not 100%. I can barely see the floor of the pool in the deep end but I have to stare at it for awhile.

I've been testing the pool and what I continue to find (using taylor kit, clorox strips, and waterguru smart device) is that my pH is low (7.0) and my alkalinity is high (170-190). Here are the test results as of yesterday:

FC: 4
CYA: 93
CH: 198
TA: 188
PH: 7.0

I've been trying to get the TA down by adding pH decreaser while also keeping the PH from lowering and trying to get it up a littler by aerating the water via upshooting the incoming jets.

Does anybody know why the TAA would be so high while the PH is low? I've only ever seen both TA and PH being high or low.

Any other ideas on why I can't get the pool crystal clear? I just added another 1/2 gallon of shock this evening to see if it helps. It's a 10,000 gallon pool.

Thanks!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: The TA is extremely high in your part of the country, but with a low pH (if that is accurate) there is no need to expedite trying to lower the TA at this time. But for TFP purposes, let's focus on getting some water test results from your Taylor test kit. We don't give advice on the Guru or test strips, they just don't have a reliable track record. Hopefully you have a K-2006C, if not, you'll want to get one for reliability. Or you can order a TF-100/Pro-Series test kit (link in my signature).

As for cloudiness, I would assume algae and residual material from opening. May require the SLAM Process, but we'll wait for those test results.

To your recent opening of the pool, it would help if we knew more about the pool and equipment. Be sure to update your signature. You can see our signatures at the bottom of each post as examples. If you are on a portable device, you may need to turn it sideways to see them. The link below should help.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Thanks all. I am using the Taylor test kit K-1003. The only reason I included the other about the test strip and waterguru is because all 3 tests are showing the same result for chlorine, PH, and TA. I only use the taylor kit for those official numbers.

I am running a 10,000 gallon fiberglass pool using a 1-hp pump. It's a Hayward DE filter which is 24 sq ft. We had a bunch of filter media blow out late last season so all of the media is brand new inside of the filter casing. We only used it for a month last season before closing the pool down. However, some of the dusting that keeps coming into the pool and on the floor/stairs reminds me of the DE backflowing into the pool. I know that can cause of cloudiness if disturbed but we are also seeing cloudiness before any vacuuming.

I am going to look at getting the Taylor K-2006 today since that seems like the better kit based on these forums. I'll update with those numbers when I get it.
 
schnoz said:
I am going to look at getting the Taylor K-2006 today since that seems like the better kit based on these forums
Click to expand...
Look at the two kits from TFtestkits.net.

I broke down the deets here

Looking to buy a test kit, need advice...

I am looking to buy a test kit. My pool details are provided below: 13,500 Gallons Pebble Finish Jandy 2.7 HP VS FloPro Jandy 200 Sqft Cartridge Filter Jandy TruClear SWG Jandy 103k BTU VersaTemp Heater K-2006C-SALT Test Kit (Planned). I have researched this topic briefly and am interested in...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
schnoz said:
a bunch of filter media blow out late last season so all of the media is brand new inside of the filter casing. We only used it for a month last season before closing the pool down. However, some of the dusting that keeps coming into the pool and on the floor/stairs reminds me of the DE backflowing into the pool.
Click to expand...
Can you pick up the dust with your fingers? Does it feel like sand? Does the dust just poof away if trying to pick it up? If the former it’s likely DE which will require further discussion/investigation. If the latter it’s likely dead algae.
 
schnoz said:
Thanks all. I am using the Taylor test kit K-1003. The only reason I included the other about the test strip and waterguru is because all 3 tests are showing the same result for chlorine, PH, and TA. I only use the taylor kit for those official numbers.

I am running a 10,000 gallon fiberglass pool using a 1-hp pump. It's a Hayward DE filter which is 24 sq ft. We had a bunch of filter media blow out late last season so all of the media is brand new inside of the filter casing. We only used it for a month last season before closing the pool down. However, some of the dusting that keeps coming into the pool and on the floor/stairs reminds me of the DE backflowing into the pool. I know that can cause of cloudiness if disturbed but we are also seeing cloudiness before any vacuuming.

I am going to look at getting the Taylor K-2006 today since that seems like the better kit based on these forums. I'll update with those numbers when I get it.
Click to expand...
IF the chlorine and CYA level is close to accurate then the FC is way too low.
 
It just can't be repeated enough the test kit mentioned several times above is key to getting the guidance you're seeking. For instance your CYA can be over the 100 mark and would need a diluted test to see what you actually have. Throwing the chlorine at the pool wasn't a bad idea except without the necessary details it's wasteful without having a direction to follow.
 
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First check the CYA by halving the amount of pool water (the other half that is supposed to be pool water use tap water or distilled). Once you get close to 100 it's difficult to tell if the number is 150 or 80. Doing the test this way should give you half of what the actual level is. If it is still high, do 1/4 pool water 3/4 tap/distilled water or even a 1:10 ratio.

If water is not pricey or there is some other reason it can't be done, I would drain half off and refill to get the CYA in a better range. At the same time you should be able to get rid if half the algae or whatever is in your pool and make treating it easier.

Are you sure your pool is 10k gallons? if it's 12K that is a 20% error and can throw off how much chemicals are needed pretty easily. Other than chlorine I generally add half or less of chemicals to see if I get the expected change and to not accidently go over or to far. It's easier to and cheaper to make changes in steps than go back and forth. This also helps account for mistakes in reading tests and also figuring out if reagents might be going bad or what you are adding is more or less effective than expected. It takes a few more days but within a week most things can be corrected. Hopefully this also gives you a better understanding of your pool and how it needs to be cared for.
 

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Bill1974 said:
First check the CYA by halving the amount of pool water (the other half that is supposed to be pool water use tap water or distilled). Once you get close to 100 it's difficult to tell if the number is 150 or 80. Doing the test this way should give you half of what the actual level is. If it is still high, do 1/4 pool water 3/4 tap/distilled water or even a 1:10 ratio.
Click to expand...
The OP doesnt have a test kit yet.
 
Okay, I just received my Taylor K-2006 kit and here are the results.

~15 CYA
5.5 FC
1.5 CC
7.1 PH
170 TA

Based on the very low CYA, I went ahead an added a pound of pool stabilizer to the skimmer. I also use the 1 inch chlorine picks with our inline system set to 4.

My pH and TA match what i was seeing with the Taylor 1003 kit. They seem to be locked to those values using the for the past week and a half. That is with multiple attempts at using pH decreaser to take the TA down while aerating the water.

I will say that the pool water has become much clearer with the latest round of shock I put in earlier this week.
 
Last edited:
schnoz said:
I also use the 1 inch chlorine picks with our inline system set to 4.
Click to expand...

Be aware that, if your pucks are dichlor or trichlor (they probably are), they're also adding CYA to your water and lowering your pH. Too much CYA is worse than too little. Also be aware that CYA can take quite a while to fully dissolve, so don't add more if you don't see it get where you want it within the first three or four days.

Switch to liquid chlorine only, unless and until you want to do a salt water chlorine generator.

Your CC probably indicates a SLAM is in order, but I'm going to let more knowledgeable members speak to that.
 
what’s in your pucks. Take a pic of the label and post here.

The pucks either add CYA, which we don’t want bc you just added some and we don’t want it too high, or it adds calcium, which isn’t awful in the very short term IF your calcium from earlier in the thread is correct.

We don’t recommend pucks bc after a short period of time either your CYA or your Calcium will be too high. We recommend liquid chlorine or a SWG.
 
Donldson said:
How did you measure 15 CYA with a k2006?
Click to expand...

If one follows the stock Taylor instructions, this is not too hard for me to imagine.

@schnoz, TFP protocol calls for rounding CYA up to the nearest ten. So 15 would be 20.

For the record, I round CYA up for calculations, but I make the best estimate that I can to the nearest one for my records. Given the logarithmic nature of the scale, it's a bit of a challenge, but if my CYA looks like 59 in February, 56 in March, and 51 in April, I want to see that downward trend... not just a bunch of 60s. I use trichlor when I'm out of town and my water has room for the CYA, and keeping an eye on the trend helps in planning to have that room.
 
The test had the water in the tube all the way up to a a little past the 30 mark and I could still see the dot at the bottom... Although it was getting cloudy at least. If I filled anymore it would have overflowed the tube. I guessed at 15 because it was definitely lower than 30 but not clear enough to be 0. Some of my other sensors and tests have it between 10-15 so I rounded up there

The 3“ pucks are trichloro-s-triazinetrione in the online feeder. I also have a floating dispenser with 1" of same tabs. I put the in line setting at 3. I'm going to take the floating one out since it's doing the same. But it sounds like you all suggest also turning the inline feeder off which I can also do. Then I just feed liquid chlorine in once a week I guess?
 

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