ORP Super high

Jun 6, 2018
19
Tucson, az
New pool owner here. Bought a house with a pool that we limped along till it was cooling off, had the pool replastered and replaced all the equipment. Well, I didnt connect the ORP sensor correctly and for 3 days it was dumping chlorine into the pool. ORP was 900+ but my ph was a perfect 7.4. Well when I realised the connector was not twisted on tight (after banging my head with erratic ORP readings) my chlorine levels were though the roof. I'm on day 4 and during the day it goes to 800-850 but at night it skyrockets.

My question, how long will it take for my error to correct itself and the chlorine to burn off?
 
my chlorine levels were though the roof. I'm on day 4 and during the day it goes to 800-850 but at night it skyrockets.
Welcome to the TFP pool! :splash:


Well, "though the roof" isn't a very precise measurement of your FC. Can you post a full set of test results please

FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. The two kits we recomend can measure FC up to 50ppm. Either a a TF100 test kit or a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter.

How quickly it burns off will be a factor of how high the FC is, how much CYA is in the water, water temperature and how much sun the pool gets each day.
 
Just went to pool store, I have a test kit K1005 just haven't dived into it yet
Alk 77
CYA 2
Clacium 197
PH 7.4
Chlorine 1.5
Water temp is at 84 degrees

Intellichem seems to have settled down it is currently reading Ph 7.4 on the dot and ORP 726, water balance of -0.30 (normal)
 
It is impossible to read CYA at a level of "2". Plus, you are saying the FC is high but they are saying it's only 1.5.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?

The Taylor K-1005 is a very limited kit. Not only is it hard to determine the actual FC level due to it being a color match DPD kit, it has limited upper range on the FC test. You could pick up a FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test and this would give you the FC test you want. But, at $30 for this single test you are almost half way to a complete new kit. The age of your current kit may play into the decision to replace the entire kit
 
Well, thier computer thing that looks like a black starfish that she put the water in said 2 for CYA on the screen. Thanks for the info. I'll just let the system run for a month or so before I touch any other chemicals in the pool. Ph and chlorine are all I'll worry about till the new plaster cures.
 
Please do not confuse the specificity of the results their Computerized analysis gives with accuracy.

Where did your fill water come from? I am concerned with findings of iron and copper. The copper can be found in some algecides or a heater that has pipe erosion due to maintaining the pH way out of range for a long period of time. With a new pool I would not think copper came form your heater, so did anyone add an algecide to the pool?

Iron is mainly found in well water, but some public systems have it in the water also.

Both of these metals can cause staining on he walls of the pool if they reach higher levels and the copper can even cause blonde hair to turn green in some cases.

If correct, the levels they show are not an immediate concern, but the source of both should be found so that you can take appropriate action to avoid issues in the future.
 
We are in Tucson, Arizona is copper country. All tucson water is well even from the city. heater is new and was not run during the acid bath after the plaster was in its 3 day bath.

Your copper levels are in line with the Tucson Water system. Arizona May be the “Copper State” but copper contamination is not from mines or ground water. Most copper related drinking water contamination comes from old pipes and old water distribution lines.

Most of Tucson’s drinking water is actually from the CAP (Colorado River water) and it is processed at water treatment facilities before being injected back into the ground water system for “stabilization” (a fancy term for mixing different water types). The water is then drawn back up through wells and distributed to customers. Because Tucson pumps more water into the ground then it takes out, there is a net surplus of CAP water going into the ground and, therefore, drawn up by wells. You can see an analysis of Tucson’s water supply here -

https://www.tucsonaz.gov/files/water/docs/2017_WQ_Report_Main_System.pdf

This is the Tucson Water Annual Water Quality report for 2017 -

https://www.tucsonaz.gov/files/water/docs/2017_WQ_Report_Main_System.pdf

Copper is below any actionable level (90th percentile max value detected at 0.127ppm) and most readings are below any detectable limit (using standard lab techniques). As a fellow Tucsonan I can report that I have never measured any copper in my pool. So, it’s really not an issue. When copper is found in pool water, it is almost always from pool owners or pool service companies using metal-based algaecides or combination trichlor tablets that have copper and zinc compounds in them (ex, Costco sells lots of 50lbs buckets of combination tabs at the start of every pool season).

If you are having trouble with your ORP system it is because they are troublesome in and of themselves. This site routinely recommends against the installation of automated chlorine injection systems based on ORP control as they are more trouble than they are worth. ORP is NOT a direct measure of FC level but an indication of the oxidizing power of the water itself. ORP can be thrown off by many other factors, most notably of which is organic fouling of the glass cell membrane and the depressed signal level caused by the presence of cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer). A simple, duty-cycle based SWG system or stenner pump liquid chlorine injector is more than adequate at maintaining FC levels. You can type the phrases “ORP” and “chem geek” into the search box (include both terms separately with quote marks) and read any number of threads and technical analysis of ORP systems. In short, they are not worth the cost.
 

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I use my TFT-100 religiously but I also have a digital meter that measures PH,temp,orp,salt. The PH is garbage,salt is very accurate(measures identical to Taylor kit). In my pool I have been able to match my ORP with my FC fairly well. After months of test results an orp of 700-800 corresponds to a FC of 5-6 where I keep my FC. Anyways point being I have no idea what ORP signifies in a pool but for a quick and easy inexpensive measurement it works well. Of course I wouldn’t rely on it. Always go the FC drop test from TFT test kit. Just passing along. Also, as stated above I wouldn’t trust the pool stores test results for anything.
 
I think I have the ORP to actual Chlorine levels down with the system. Set it to 750 and the Ph to 7.4 because my eyes burn less. now I have read a lot here but I am still a might confused. My CYA is very low if existent, the intellichem says 30 or below, so that's good no???.. I did use the TFP app (yes I bought a subscription) it told me to put in 1.7 Lb baking soda.. I did and will test the Alkalinity later today. Now I know people here hate the auto ORP thing but Im still going to stick with it because I hated the pucks and that stupid duck floating in my pool, he always floated to the skimmer. Now, if I understand this correctly ORP hates CYA as well and the only disadvantage is excessive chlorine levels??? this part has me so confused. should I bring it up? is 20 a sweet spot??
 
Do you know how much liquid chlorine you use each day during the summer months when having essentially 0 CYA?
 
I did use the TFP app (yes I bought a subscription) it told me to put in 1.7 Lb baking soda.. I did and will test the Alkalinity later today.
For it to tell you to put someting in, it looks for a target level. What target level did you give it?

The higher the TA the faster pH rises. While Leslie's told you to keep the TA between 80-140, we tend to like to keep it much lower. My sweet spot for TA is 60. I would not add any more baking soda.


Now I know people here hate the auto ORP thing but Im still going to stick with it because I hated the pucks and that stupid duck floating in my pool, he always floated to the skimmer.
We don't want you to use pucks either. They are almost 50% CYA and continued use will drive the CYA to unmanageable levels.

Now, if I understand this correctly ORP hates CYA as well and the only disadvantage is excessive chlorine levels??? this part has me so confused. should I bring it up? is 20 a sweet spot??
CYA does cause ORP to get confused, so in theory the lower the CYA the better if you are using ORP. I have seen it reported that you don't want to go over 30 CYA with ORP.

But, CYA protects your chlorine from the UV rays of the sun. With "0" CYA the "half life" of chlorine in a pool exposed to the sun is less than an hour. So, if your CYA is "0" and your FC is 10, under laboratory conditions an hour later your FC would be 5. After two hours your FC would be 2.5, three hours and your FC would be 1.25.

The disadvantage of lower CYA with ORP is higher chlorine consumption by the UV rays of the sun, not "excessive chlorine levels".

So, continuing to use ORP I would say you want to keep your CYA between 20-30.
 
Been following the TFP app, slowly I've been doing what it says even though I'm not sure why it wants what it wants. Pool store says FC 3.1 PH 7.7 ALK 92 Calcium 215 CYA 32. My testing with my Taylor kit disagreed with the PH, says 7.6. Honestly the only reason I go to the pool store to test is they do CYA. this Taylor kit is overwhelming, but I'm slowly at my own pace figuring it out. Thanks for the assistance Tim and the others
:)
The intellichem system goes from -0.08 in the day time to -0.14 at night. I want it to be a + rather than a - because I'd rather descale then replaster.
 
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