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Luric

Well-known member
Aug 5, 2015
128
Central NJ
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Had to do a partial refill to lower CYA after our SWG broke and we decided to pause on fixing and go back to LC for the rest of the season. Didn't quite get CYA where I wanted to be (have never done a drain/refill before - took a LOOOOOONG time!!:oops:), but these are my current levels, so please LMK in what order to attack to get back to LC-appropriate, plaster-pool levels. It's been several years!

FC: 4
CC: .5
pH: 6.8
TA: 40
CH: 275
CYA: 60 (my kids' eyes say 50 - I hate this test)
 
Raise your FC to be in range for your CYA of 60. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Raise your TA with Baking Soda to 50-60. Let theat settle a day, if your pH is still in the 6s, Raise your pH with 20 mule team borax to 7.2-74.
 
Are you continuing to add drops until there's no further color change?


Are you replacing the IC60?
Not replace SWG this season hence going back to LC and lower CYA/drain/refill (also pie CYA got out of control while on an extended vacation and having a service handle since they used pucks & shock and the CYA was already high from when we formerly had been salt😩)

Yes, I’m confident in all of my testing results exxept CYA. The dot at the bottom has always given me trouble!
 
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Yes, I’m confident in all of my testing results exxept CYA.
You've been here for 9 years, so you're not a newbie. :) Many people don't know that the TA test requires adding drops after the initial color change. I wish there was a better CYA test for the average pool owner, but we're stuck with what's available.
 
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