Opening up early to get conversion started

Hunter, we've been going over your notes, with several folks analyzing everything. Remember that the pool store testing above is questionable because chlorine, especially unbuffered chlorine at this level without CYA, is exceptionally strong and can skew those results. No doubt something "unusual" is happening in your water. Metals is high suspect, even though we can't pinpoint the source. Glad to hear you passed the OCLT! :goodjob: Perhaps the CDX that was used complicated the conversion process because enough CDX can interfere with the FC calculation. So for remainder of the conversion, you're down to the last couple step which include changing the filter media and passing 2 days of the CC test (0.5 or less).

Post conversion I think you have a couple options:
1. After the last couple conversion steps are complete, balance the water as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Your CYA should already be 30. Once you let the FC fall, we'll have to watch and see if the green goes away on its own. If is does go away, an elevated metals content is confirmed. You can either manage the water with a sequestrant, or do a healthy water exchange.
2. Do a significant water exchange now based on the assumption of what appears to be a reaction between chlorine and an increased presence of metal. Take care of your filter media, refill, and balance the water as noted above.

Congrats on finally getting past that first OCLT hurdle. Now hopefully we can help get you past the green hue in the water..
 
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Is it possible that the 4ppm of Baquacil holding on could tint the water that much from the chlorine?
I'm not all that confident of that store's testing. That's why in most cases we ignore them totally. Once in a while they pick-up trace amounts of metals, or in your case Baqua, but there's no guarantee. But by passing the OCLT as you noted, the Baqua conversion is just about complete. Now is the time to follow the remaining conversion steps (clean filter, change media, CC testing, etc). From there, the Baqua is history. Now it's all about the remaining by-product of whatever is turning that water clear/green, and we know it's not algae. So you have those options noted above to chose from.
 
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I'm not all that confident of that store's testing. That's why in most cases we ignore them totally. Once in a while they pick-up trace amounts of metals, or in your case Baqua, but there's no guarantee. But by passing the OCLT as you noted, the Baqua conversion is just about complete. Now is the time to follow the remaining conversion steps (clean filter, change media, CC testing, etc). From there, the Baqua is history. Now it's all about the remaining by-product of whatever is turning that water clear/green, and we know it's not algae. So you have those options noted above to chose from.
I know if I replace 5,000 gallons it will only cost $22, but I don’t have a companion meter so the sewage cost will be double that because the county thinks it’s going to waste. Still that’s maybe a better option.
 
I did notice I’m getting some sand accumulating on the steps and bottom. Is it possible it’s getting pulled from the filter while recirculating and that’s where the Baquacil is coming from? Or are we totally certain it’s completely gone?
 
I suspect once you start refilling, you will see a major difference in the water. But about the sand .... when you open the filter to remove the old Baqua sand and clean the filter, pull those laterals out and inspect them carefully. Make sure you don't have a cracked/separated lateral, hub connector, or defective center standpipe. Now is the time to replace it if so.

Also, watch the liner carefully during this water change. We normally never recommend a 100% drain because the liner can move on you. Your call, but be carefull. What you're doing now should help tremendously.
 
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I suspect once you start refilling, you will see a major difference in the water. But about the sand .... when you open the filter to remove the old Baqua sand and clean the filter, pull those laterals out and inspect them carefully. Make sure you don't have a cracked/separated lateral, hub connector, or defective center standpipe. Now is the time to replace it if so.

Also, watch the liner carefully during this water change. We normally never recommend a 100% drain because the liner can move on you. Your call, but be carefull. What you're doing now should help tremendously.
I drained down to the bottom step. Definitely significant. Had to call it quits on vacuuming out the filter for tonight due to rain and starting to get dark. I’ll pick back up in the morning. On my downtime I just went back through the skimmer baskets and returns, cleaning everything and soaking some of the plastic in chlorine water.
 
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Just to make sure here,

Make sure you leave about a foot of water in the shallow end. This is what holds the liner in place. If you drain all of it you will get wrinkles or a floating liner.
 
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Looking much better! With the pump running again, it's time to grab a water sample and make your normal TFP adjustments as necessary. New water won't have any CYA, so you can expect that to be zero. But use the PoolMath APP to help you keep everything at the proper level. The levels link is in my sig below if you need it.
 
Looking much better! With the pump running again, it's time to grab a water sample and make your normal TFP adjustments as necessary. New water won't have any CYA, so you can expect that to be zero. But use the PoolMath APP to help you keep everything at the proper level. The levels link is in my sig below if you need it.
Yeah I’m on top of it. Thanks guys. It’s beer time.
 

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