Opening up early to get conversion started
- Thread starter HunterS
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Big difference. Sure looks like some metals got in that water since lat year.
@Leebo and @Donldson, thoughts? With water clear, and going this long, do you think it's time to purge the filter? I'm not seeing goo anywhere. Maybe shift the focus on the potential for iron/copper based on that emerald green? I'm wondering if the Baqua process (FC of 15 w/ zero CYA) is responsible for aggravating metals? Wondering if by purging the filter, then adding stabilizer to buffer the high FC if it will allow the water to go back to blue?
@Leebo and @Donldson, thoughts? With water clear, and going this long, do you think it's time to purge the filter? I'm not seeing goo anywhere. Maybe shift the focus on the potential for iron/copper based on that emerald green? I'm wondering if the Baqua process (FC of 15 w/ zero CYA) is responsible for aggravating metals? Wondering if by purging the filter, then adding stabilizer to buffer the high FC if it will allow the water to go back to blue?
Just left the pool store. They recorded 0 iron, 0 copper, and 0 zinc.
They know I’m not on Baquacil. Just offering their findings. We did get a lot of rain last night so it’s possible the pH has drifted. But I recorded a solid 7.4 last night and it was 7.2 when I started. I was also getting 80 on TA and their test shows 71.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Unfortunately, those results could be skewed (for metals) simply because of all the other product in the water already. The color is what is most important now. But we'll see. Lee is our Baqua expert having done some himself. But with all the conversion we've seen, I don't recall seeing a residual light/transparent green like that before. Lets see what Lee and Donaldson have to say.
I’m kinda gonna type out some general thoughts here, likely all are just kinda worthless thinking.
For starters I totally don’t trust those test results. They’re showing an “OK” level of Baqua Oxidizer which is all but impossible. The key ingredient in the Oxidizer is Hydrogen Peroxide, and that’s been used up by the large amounts of chlorine. What’s really eating at me is the fact you mentioned you don’t get iron type stains inside.
I’m assuming when you brush the water massive amounts of Baqua doesn’t go all over the place correct? I’m also assuming at this point after you brush your pool doesn’t become cloudy and such?? I too tend to think the bulk of the Baqua conversion is done, but I’m just making sure.
Have you done the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? Are you keeping the FC level at 15ppm??
Lastly, and I’m gonna read this thread again, you’ve owned this pool for awhile right? You kinda know it’s history and past products used in the water??
I know there’s a ton of questions here! I’m really just lost here
For starters I totally don’t trust those test results. They’re showing an “OK” level of Baqua Oxidizer which is all but impossible. The key ingredient in the Oxidizer is Hydrogen Peroxide, and that’s been used up by the large amounts of chlorine. What’s really eating at me is the fact you mentioned you don’t get iron type stains inside.
I’m assuming when you brush the water massive amounts of Baqua doesn’t go all over the place correct? I’m also assuming at this point after you brush your pool doesn’t become cloudy and such?? I too tend to think the bulk of the Baqua conversion is done, but I’m just making sure.
Have you done the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? Are you keeping the FC level at 15ppm??
Lastly, and I’m gonna read this thread again, you’ve owned this pool for awhile right? You kinda know it’s history and past products used in the water??
I know there’s a ton of questions here! I’m really just lost here
Third year opening this pool. Spent $700ish each year on Baquacil products, including CDX. Never really had any major issues except for a storm drain in the back of the property would flood and the storm water would run down the sidewalk all the way from the shed into the pool. “100 year storm” but it happened a couple times. Big mess. The county has added a real 18” drain and made an entire ditch so that issue has been totally resolved. But that explains why I spent so much on top of my season supply. Only battled pink slime once a year around the very end of the summer. Only battled white water once last year and it was mild.
Continuing with the present, there is hardly any residual accumulation every couple days. It’s definitely present but nowhere near overwhelming. I never had the slightest reaction of the so called Baqua goo. I’ve maintained the regiment of adding LC at least twice a day. In the very beginning I made sure it was almost hourly while I had the time to deal with goo if it presented itself. When I brush, nothing stirs up other than a few leaves and accumulated matter that really just looks like dissolved earth worms. FC still maintains well overnight, it dropped to 12 initially and then the last 2 nights have been 12.5 by morning. We have had rain so that could skew results some since it’s diluting.
Only chemicals ever used since I’ve owned the house since Dec 2017 and all Baquacil products
Baquacil sanitizer and algistat.
Oxidizer
CDX
Algidefense
pH decrease
CH
Flocc
Current LC I’m using is Smart Advanced Pool Systems Liquid Chlorinizor
10% Sodium Hypochlorite manufactured 20 083
Never dealt with algae, I could make a whole box last all season. I can run a little experiment if you think that could cause it, I still have 3 or 4 packets left from last season.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hunter, I have a bad feeling about the historical use of those chemicals. That's something we would've had no idea about at the beginning of this Baqua conversion. One of those unfortunate "unknowns". Lee and Donaldson may have other thoughts, but my gut tells me that the repetitive use of those chemicals increased the copper level in the water. That increased level, along with the new use chlorine (unbuffered by stabilizer making it very strong) during the conversion reacted with the copper resulting in that clear green hue. If the others agree, the only way to remove the copper is by a water exchange. But don't take action just yet, I'm just giving you my 2-cents. Let's put all our TFP heads together in case there's something else to consider.
I think the only chemical with notable metal content is the algidefense, which is 35% zinc. It’s still a very small pouch. If it does come down to water exchange, a 12,000 gallon pool is nothing compared to when my irrigation was leaking and the county said I was using 55,000 gallons in 1 month.
It might cost me an extra $100 by the time it’s all said and done. Heck, I’ve used 31 gallons of 10% LC at this point. 10 cases cost about $210 when I stocked up on it. Luckily I already had the sand from when the pool store told me 2 years ago I needed to change the sand every other year, I bought it and then did a little mor research and decided to wait it out because my water was almost always perfect.
I never used that particular algicide so i dont know, but as you still have some, an experiment might help determine if zinc is what is turning the chlorinated water green. I could not find any reference for what effect on color zinc might have. My hypothesis is yes..
I’m still talking to a few people as in all honesty here @HunterS, this is weird. Zinc isn’t likely the issue as it appears it would turn a whiteish stain. I’m also looking at the SDS of other Arch Chemicals to see if any of their algaecides contain copper as maybe you had used that and didn’t remember it.
Two more questions,
1. Have you done the OCLT, if so did you pass?
2. What test kit are you using??
Two more questions,
1. Have you done the OCLT, if so did you pass?
2. What test kit are you using??
good to know, i could not find that.
also, remember the copper tested at zero.
the two most common baquacil algicides do not show copper as a component.
Using a Taylor k-2006 and OCLT has been consistently dropping from 15 down to 12.5 a couple days in a row.
It has rained some on and off the last 3 days though. I Really appreciate all your help guys
Ok! So finally passed OCLT.
FC: 14
CC: 1
Pool is quite clear still.
I guess the other fun part of hacking up the previous homeowners pvc job awaits me. Instead of running unions, they used the pvc fittings and cemented the tubes to the fittings.
FC: 14
CC: 1
Pool is quite clear still.
I guess the other fun part of hacking up the previous homeowners pvc job awaits me. Instead of running unions, they used the pvc fittings and cemented the tubes to the fittings.