Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time

[Mdragger88]

I understand- but in my case my calcium hardness is very low- and as mentioned I have NO heater- BUT then wouldn't adding this Powershock powder-(calcium hypochlorite) make my calcium level a bit BETTER- and make the water better if i do this method infrequently?

You have a vinyl pool with no heater- you don’t need more calcium for any reason.
Too little ch is not an issue for your pool.
Too much is a problem & can cause scaling.
My main point is - Why add something you don’t need just because?
You’re not logging your results in
PoolMath so I don’t know your current ch level to guide you on how much more ch you can stand.
The cal hypo will last indefinitely if stored properly & doesn’t degrade so just save it for backup if you can’t get liquid chlorine.

The yellow oto test is not a very accurate test - its more of a “do i have any chlorine or not?” Kind of Test (fc or cc? because it cannot tell the difference)
It is included mainly because of the comparator block for ph. For most people with normal amounts of cya it offers too low of a range to be very helpful.
Use the fas/dpd for testing fc & cc separately & accurately.
If you need more reagents/powder order them before you run out.

 

[monsterman]

But as you say just follow the chamber- BUT how does that really help me properly- if my pH should be between 7.4-7.8 lets say and it may be 8 (or maybe more)- but I really cannot tell. I know it is the top pink color- on that chamber. But we are talking about .1 or .2 ppm maybe- is that really bad? and should ai counter that with dry acid -but at what point- since I don't know the true value- if you know what i am trying to say- I almost want to be as good as possible but the testing is not allowing me to - I wish the pH had a more concise test as does the chlorine with the powder if you know what I mean.

 

[monsterman]

that plastic chamber is a comparator block and is included in your kit so you can confirm if you have chlorine and ROUGHLY how much. It's cheap, very fast and easy
I used mine virtually everyday for the reasons above and then when I felt the need I would use the more accurate FAS/DPD chlorine test

That I get- but how about the pH-- there is NO more precise test- is there? It really is hard to tell what my true pH is- whether it is 7.6 all the way to 8 or above by just .1 or so?

 

[monsterman]

I just read an article on line from a site called dengarden.com/swimming pools about effects of rain. It says the pH of the human eye is 7.5 and the pH of normal rain is about 5 and the normal range of pH in a pool should be between 7.4-7.6. So if we do have a bit of rain(quite a bit in the next 3 days)- maybe my pH will come down to that normal range? because a few articles I have read also say that a normal pH allows the chlorine to function properly as well. So I really want to stay on top of my pH levels to ensure that my chlorine is working to its best capacity especially with my CYA levels. Also will my CYA drop with a fair amount of rain? I was hoping you guys would smack me around a bit and say that I should get my pH down from the 8 it is at to about 7.6- but most of the nice people here say not to worry so much- but I just a bit OCD here . thats all

 

[Newdude]

So if we do have a bit of rain(quite a bit in the next 3 days)- maybe my pH will come down to that normal range?

One inch of 5 PH rain won't make a dent in 48 inches of 8 PH pool.

((1 X 5) + (48 ×8) ) ÷ 49 = 7.939. You'd never see that difference.

 

[Newdude]

but I just a bit OCD here . thats all

You are amongst your kind of people. We like to call ourselves 'enthusiasts.'

And TRUST me. If you needed to do *anything*, we'd tell you. Make a judgement call on when it's time to lower Ph.

Again, a couple days either way won't ever matter. Do it today, or don't do it today. Don't waste one more thought on it besides that.

 

[monsterman]

You are amongst your kind of people. We like to call ourselves 'enthusiasts.'

And TRUST me. If you needed to do *anything*, we'd tell you. Make a judgement call on when it's time to lower Ph. Again, a couple days either way won't ever matter. Do it today, or don't do it today. Don't waste one more thought on it besides that.

you sound like my wife- she says that I never stop - to leave it alone- I guess that is me- i am my fathers son- I always worked hard- never got anything that I did not earn. I like to be good at what I do. Like for example- I used to have someone open my pool until he could not come in a timely fashion so I tried it myself and bingo- I did it and still do till this day. I am one person- and I take off the pool cover and leaf cover and it takes me a few hours to stretch it out in my narrow driveway and hose it down and brush it off then repeat 2 more times and then let it dry and then fold it nice and neat and tight. Takes me hours to do- but I am determined. Closing I do not do- I let my guy do it- and I always question him on why he never puts shock in the pool upon closing- and he says you have water to the skimmer and that it will never matter - it would not freeze thru and thru- but we do put that blue bubble in the middle to prevent ice buildup. And so far the way he close he pool- all is OK . But as mentioned that is me- I really try and in the process I ask a million questions and my wife says that I am like Lucille Ball and that I always listen to the LAST persons advice? Boy am I crazy

 

[Newdude]

. Closing I do not do-

I HIGHLY suggest having us walk you though it. Above grounds have far less complicated plumbing to clear, and we walk several through their first rodeo each year.

They quoted me 700 something to close mine. We'd LOVE to save you whatever they fleece you for.

 

[Mdragger88]

Any ph in the 7’s is fine-
If you’re showing 8 on the test just aim for mid 7’s.
It would take alot of rain to affect your ph that much in such a large body of water.
It rains all the time here & as I mentioned previously my ph never moves. I don’t think the rain will take care of your ph for you unfortunately.
With cya in the water ph fluctuations have very little effect on the effectiveness of chlorine so just aim to keep it in the 7’s & you’ll be good.

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Kaylee34]

It doesn’t have to be perfect to be correct.

 

[monsterman]

does anyone here recommend a digital tester- I saw one on line that was over $300- is there a decent one that is less costly and recommended?

 

[Newdude]

does anyone here recommend a digital tester

Some swear for, some swear against.

The Apera PH60 is usually the winner when the discussion comes up about which model to get.

 

[Newdude]

There's 2 recurring themes in this thread my friend. Doing things and spending money.


You seem to just want to be doing something. Anything. For the sake of doing something. Even at an unnecessary expense. Have you considered leaving $50 in an envelope overnight for the pool fairy ? It would scratch both itches everyday. You'd be doing something, and spending money. PM me your address and I'll foward it to her so she can be on the lookout.

 

[monsterman]

I just added 84 ounces of liquid chorine. Keeping her on liquid diet. My fc was like 6 so pool math said to add that amount since my cya i put in as 100 and the bleach i use is 10%. I am not vacuuming robotically. I will check tomorrow. I used the tf100 test to get my fc level. I am definitely going to order another jar

 

[monsterman]

hello-- I just checked the pH and fc with the plastic color chamber. Wow that 84 ounces raised my fc into the orange color above the color chart on that accessory(the last time this happened I just did not add any liquid chlorine for 2 days and it came down on its own.). And my pH seems a bit higher as well. It definitely is a darker hue of magenta. I do have dry acid to reduce the pH-- what should my next line of attack be. I really want to see if my pool can be a bit clearer if I lower that pH- but with pool math-what number for ph do I put in if it is darker than the top color?

 

[Mdragger88]

hello-- I just checked the pH and fc with the plastic color chamber. Wow that 84 ounces raised my fc into the orange color above the color chart on that accessory(the last time this happened I just did not add any liquid chlorine for 2 days and it came down on its own.). And my pH seems a bit higher as well. It definitely is a darker hue of magenta. I do have dry acid to reduce the pH-- what should my next line of attack be. I really want to see if my pool can be a bit clearer if I lower that pH- but with pool math-what number for ph do I put in if it is darker than the top color?

The first problem- oto test being dark- isn’t actually a problem, that’s a sign you actually have enough chlorine in the pool since for your cya you want 11-13ppm - which will show up dark on that test.
Your oto test should Always read darker than the highest value because 5ppm is not high enough for you.
As mentioned previously don’t make adjustments based on the oto test.
Use fas/dpd for accuracy.

For the ph you just use the highest readable measurement on the comparator block & put that number in
PoolMath as your “current” then 7.5 or 7.6 (mid 7’s) as your target.
Add the amount of acid it tells you & test again in 30 minutes or so to confirm it’s in the 7’s, if not repeat the process.

Note* when fc is above 10ppm it skews the ph test (often showing as falsely higher) so in your current situation (needing fc to be above 10ppm most all the time due to high cya) it is best if you test ph & adjust it before adding chlorine. This is one of the reasons it is impractical to have such a high cya.

 

[monsterman]

The first problem- oto test being dark- isn’t actually a problem, that’s a sign you actually have enough chlorine in the pool since for your cya you want 11-13ppm - which will show up dark on that test.
Your oto test should Always read darker than the highest value because 5ppm is not high enough for you.
As mentioned previously don’t make adjustments based on the oto test.
Use fas/dpd for accuracy.

For the ph you just use the highest readable measurement on the comparator block & put that number in
PoolMath as your “current” then 7.5 or 7.6 (mid 7’s) as your target.
Add the amount of acid it tells you & test again in 30 minutes or so to confirm it’s in the 7’s, if not repeat the process.

Note* when fc is above 10ppm it skews the ph test (often showing as falsely higher) so in your current situation (needing fc to be above 10ppm most all the time due to high cya) it is best if you test ph & adjust it before adding chlorine. This is one of the reasons it is impractical to have such a high cya.

Do I need to put my TA value in the Pool math calculation to see how much dry acid to use--because if I do not the value for the dry acid is almost nothing? The reason I ask is because I did NOT test this AM for TA?

 

[Newdude]

I did NOT test this AM for TA?

Just use last time's TA. It doesn't change much.

 

[monsterman]

Just use last time's TA. It doesn't change much.

thank you--- I just want to bother you one last time---if you look at Mdragger88 the pic he has of his pool as his avatar- it looks so great-- Now my pool is a lot less blue liner than that one is- so it shows as a brighter water-Not like the Caribbean. like his water looks(LOL). My water looks clear especially when I open the skimmer basket and look down into the white plastic of the skimmer basket- it looks clean and clear like drinking water. But looking at the whole picture- it does NOT have the sparkle it had last year (I can see the bottom with all the faded speckles etc-the liner must be at least 10 years old). Any ideas? remember last year I added baking soda at times- did that make my water look like it sparkled? Remember the ONLY thing I added last year was the weekly shock and baking soda and maybe once or twice ONLY was a capful of clarifier.

 

[Newdude]

It does NOT have the sparkle it had last year

You are repeatedly flirting with, or dipping below minimum FC for your CYA level. Run a 15 FC at all times and it will sparkle so bad its blinding. You want sparkle ???? Check mine out. No baking soda, no clarifier, no shock, no nothing but chlorine.



You also need obnoxiously clear blue skies for sparkle. It's been gloomy and yuck here for what seems like weeks.

remember last year I added baking soda at times- did that make my water look like it sparkled?

No.

I can see the bottom with all the faded speckles etc-the liner must be at least 10 years old).

The faded liner will affect the color of the water, as will all the foliage right behind your pool. @Mdragger88 and I have open yards which will give off less reflections of the surrounding area.

Mdragger88 the pic he has of his pool as his avatar- it looks so great

*she. And she, is amazing. We are lucky to have her.