so is what u r saying-- is that pH- if it's 8 and not 7.8 there is really not much harm- believe it or not no one has been swimming yet- the weather is really not that hot yet. I do exercise with my weights in the backyard and I stick my head in the pool to cool off and it feels nice and my eyes nor my face ever gets irritated or stings. So I feel alright with that. I just added another 2 cups of liquid chlorine since the sun was out tonight(but not really hot. I have been adding about 2 cups almost every other night- to keep my levels about 8-9 ppm. I cannot wait to have my water tested to see what my CYA level is- especially after I vacuumed to waste and backwashed and rinsed and lost about 2 inches or more of water which I refilled with my filtered hose. I hope I drop a few more points- remember last week it was 95- fingers crossed- that a few more vacuuming to waste and backwashed thru the season which is really short- will end in very early September(labor day)- that my CYA will come down a bit more and be almost great by next year.
Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time
- Thread starter monsterman
- Start date
That's EXACTLY what I'm saying.
While a select few need to target a specific Ph window, your vinyl pool is very forgiving. Some people get *some* eye irritation at 8+. Others don't. If it was ever to bother your eyes, then lower it and it's fixed in 15 mins for some time.
It's an all season process. You could see 5 to 10 loss a month, but you typically won't see 5 to 10 loss a week. Now. When it sits for 8 months over the winter, that's where the AHA!!!!! loss will be.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I hope you meant “I can’t wait to test your cya with my kit.”
Rav road trip to Monte's so he can test his CYA with your kit ??????? I'll come help.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
But he has his own right?Rav road trip to Monte's so he can test his CYA with your kit ??????? I'll come help.
He Got it back on post #222, page 12 for the folks following along at home.
Road trip to Monte’s! I’m down for that! Test kit party!! I wonder what kind of results we can get off various craft beers?
OR this product----
Remington Solar Chlorine-Free Sun Shock & Water Purifier Ionizer
They are made by many different companies- Does anybody have any thoughts on either of these items?
The tablets are trichlor
The ionizer adds copper to the pool, which is a major no-no.
Stahp looking for magic pills. None exist. You've seen how easy (and cheap) it is to only need liquid chlorine.
The ionizer adds copper to the pool, which is a major no-no.
Stahp looking for magic pills. None exist. You've seen how easy (and cheap) it is to only need liquid chlorine.
You don't need that stuff. Take the money you're thinking of spending on that and get one of these instead.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
They’re both a big ole no
OR this product----
Remington Solar Chlorine-Free Sun Shock & Water Purifier Ionizer
They are made by many different companies- Does anybody have any thoughts on either of these items?
for the reasons @Newdude pointed out. You’re pool is on the liquid diet now- that’s all it needs.
let me ask u this- I think it is going to rain today thru Saturday quite a bit with temps not that hot- what should I be looking out for- in terms of pH and TA and FC levels? Also, I just backwashed on Tuesday- I may have to do it again to get rid of some water- is that OK to do it so close if needed?
I have not added any liquid bleach for 2 days - no sun- the last 2 days- I am feeling like using one bag of calcium hypochlorite and just seeing what the results would be?
I have not added any liquid bleach for 2 days - no sun- the last 2 days- I am feeling like using one bag of calcium hypochlorite and just seeing what the results would be?
FC should be kept in the target range for your current CYA level. Test and add what you need to keep it there. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less.
Keep PH in the 7's. Don't worry about TA. No problem backwashing again if you need to lower water.
Don't just add a bag to see what the results would be. If you use "effects of adding" in the poolmath app, that will tell you what it will do. One pound of 48% cal-hypo will add 5.7 FC, 4.0 CH and 5.8 salt to 10,000 gallons of water.
Do you have the app?
Keep PH in the 7's. Don't worry about TA. No problem backwashing again if you need to lower water.
Don't just add a bag to see what the results would be. If you use "effects of adding" in the poolmath app, that will tell you what it will do. One pound of 48% cal-hypo will add 5.7 FC, 4.0 CH and 5.8 salt to 10,000 gallons of water.
Do you have the app?
We know it's hard after 15 years of the pool store conditioning you to have to dump things in all the time. The more they make you mess with stuff, the easier it is to start the rollercoaster where they sell you stuff to lower XYZ, and immediately sell you other stuff to raise the same XYZ.
But stop.
What you're doing is *working*
What you're doing is cheaper.
What you're doing is easier.
Liquid chlorine is all you need now unless the ph hits an 8. Even then, like we discussed above, it's no pressing emergency.
The cal-hypo you have won't go bad if stored cool/dry. There's no rush to use it.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you need chlorine add it.
As we have mentioned there are little downsides to having extra chlorine (the only one really for you is accurately measuring ph when fc is above 10ppm)
But there are many downsides to not having enough ie. Algae &/unsanitary water.
Keeping fc at minimum for your cya is just that- doing the MINIMUM & risking algae if there is a tiny change in environmental factors.
Dose to target
range,
maintain Target range & rest easy knowing you are covered.
FC/CYA Levels
You can accomplish this with any form of chlorine - the result on sanitation & fc will be the same if you dose to the same target using
PoolMath its not a guess.
What is not the same is what else different forms add to your water.
Liquid Chlorine = fc + salt
Cal hypo = fc+calcium + salt
Trichlor/dichlor = fc + cya + salt + acid
As we have mentioned there are little downsides to having extra chlorine (the only one really for you is accurately measuring ph when fc is above 10ppm)
But there are many downsides to not having enough ie. Algae &/unsanitary water.
Keeping fc at minimum for your cya is just that- doing the MINIMUM & risking algae if there is a tiny change in environmental factors.
Dose to target
range,maintain Target
range & rest easy knowing you are covered.FC/CYA Levels
You can accomplish this with any form of chlorine - the result on sanitation & fc will be the same if you dose to the same target
usingPoolMath its not a guess.
What is not the same is what else different forms add to your water.
Liquid Chlorine = fc + salt
Cal hypo = fc+calcium + salt
Trichlor/dichlor = fc + cya + salt + acid
yes I do-- I just thought that to give it a superchlorinator boost with all the rain headed this way- to put in a bag of that Powershock
I understand- but in my case my calcium hardness is very low- and as mentioned I have NO heater- BUT then wouldn't adding this Powershock powder-(calcium hypochlorite) make my calcium level a bit BETTER- and make the water better if i do this method infrequently?If you need chlorine add it.
As we have mentioned there are little downsides to having extra chlorine (the only one really for you is accurately measuring ph when fc is above 10ppm)
But there are many downsides to not having enough ie. Algae &/unsanitary water.
Keeping fc at minimum for your cya is just that- doing the MINIMUM & risking algae if there is a tiny change in environmental factors.
Dose to target
maintain Target
FC/CYA Levels
You can accomplish this with any form of chlorine - the result on sanitation & fc will be the same if you dose to the same target
PoolMath its not a guess.
What is not the same is what else different forms add to your water.
Liquid Chlorine = fc + salt
Cal hypo = fc+calcium + salt
Trichlor/dichlor = fc + cya + salt + acid
oh one more thing- when i measure the pH and Chlorine in that plastic chamber item- it shows that my chlorine is the brightest yellow- on top which I believe is 5 ppm?? But when I do the test with that small jar etc- I believe my FC is about 8-- so how does the plastic chamber accessory really help me with my numbers. And I do not want to keep using that reagent powder for the fc because I will run out of it so fast. So how does the color chamber color really give me a true number when I have to keep my fc at around 8 due to my CYA but the color chamber only goes up to 5??
It does not accurately test over 3, per Taylor's own say so. The industry never wants you above 4ppm, so following their advice, the comparator block is fine.
Use the powder test. Stay above 8, including wiggle room for weather events or particularly high UV loss days.
4 ppm of claicium is never going to matter for anyone. Heck. *40* ppm (10 bags for you) won't either.
Don't add it just to add it.
that plastic chamber is a comparator block and is included in your kit so you can confirm if you have chlorine and ROUGHLY how much. It's cheap, very fast and easy
I used mine virtually everyday for the reasons above and then when I felt the need I would use the more accurate FAS/DPD chlorine test
I used mine virtually everyday for the reasons above and then when I felt the need I would use the more accurate FAS/DPD chlorine test