Opened to green pool and use BBB method

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NicInNC

0
Jun 12, 2007
82
North Carolina
We opened our pool yesterday to a green pool. Well, actually the water appeared clear, but the algae was all over the bottom and sides of the pool.

I immediately started adding bleach. I kept testing the levels and not once could I get a chlorine reading. I ended up adding 12 gallons of bleach and as of last night, I still couldn't get a reading.

What's odd is that I woke up this morning to a cloudy pool....no sign of green whatsoever. So, obviously the bleach IS there.

Could it be that my reagent is bad? When I checked the CYA, I could fill the tube all the way up and still see the black dot at the bottom. Does that mean I have NO CYA or does that mean it's so high that it's off the charts? I have the test kit recommended on this site from Leslie's. It's a huge box that checks everything.

When I get home from work this afternoon, I'll test again and post my readings. Just curious if the reagent is bad....
 
Your kit only tests to 5ppm FC according to the link, so you were probably well beyond the range of your test capabilty when you shocked. Sounds like you are on the way, and just need to get some CYA into the water.
 
So, obviously the bleach IS there.
Click to expand...
Nope. It WAS there. It is a consumable item and algae consumes it...very rapidly when you have a lot of algae. You must replenish the bleach that was consumed.

Your chlorine reagent could, of course, be bad but the more likely scenario is the bleach was used up.

If you want to check your reagents, put a drop or two of bleach in a glass of tap water.

You have virtually no CYA. If you did, the water would be very cloudy and obscure the dot.
 
The DPD chlorine test will read zero when the FC level is above somewhere around 10 or 15. One good way to double check is to mix one unit of pool water with two units of distilled water (or some other chlorine free water) and test that. If it still reads zero then chances are it really is zero. Or, if you have an OTO chlorine test (drops turn the sample shades of yellow which is then compared to a color chart) lying around (most people have them) test with that. If the OTO test stays clear then the FC level really is zero. If it turns yellow or orange or red then there is chlorine in the pool.

A much better long term alternative is to get a FAS-DPD chlorine test, which will read very high FC levels reliably.
 
Ok...I'm a dork! I was adding the first bottle of reagent and not the second one that makes the test sample turn red. DUH! LOL! :hammer:

Here are my readings:
CYA <30 (I'd say it's darn close to 30 though because I could barely see the black dot at 30 which is the lowest my kit will read).
TC .5
BR 1
ALK 70
PH 7.2

So, I know I need to add more chlorine and brush, brush, brush. I'm guessing I also need to add more Baking Soda and some Borax. I am also going to add some stabilizer to get the CYA in there. I'll keep you all updated. Here is what it looks like now:
 

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Leave the PH alone for now - and the TA is just fine at 70. Later, after the shock process has been completed you can add Borax.
Ignore reference to BR or bromine since it's a chlorine pool.
You definitely need more chlorine :)
 

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