oops too much salt

Jump to latest Follow Reply
I

iamomeed

0
Feb 6, 2017
51
houston, TX
Just added a Circupool RJ saltwater chlorinator to my rig. instructions say to bring salt levels to 3500 to 4000 ideal range. I dont have my salt tester yet and used the one thats on the machine. I added 8 bags and after 24 hrs it read around 2500 ppm. in the manual it has a formula and suggested 110 more pounds of salt, i added 3 bags....now about 48 hours later the machine is reading the salt at 5500 to 6500 ppm. The "High salt" light is on and it is not generating chlorine. oops.

also, im not sure if this is effecting the readings, but I am also Slaming the pool because i had it off for about 4 or 5 days while i was re-plumbing everything and it was turning green.

Right now the pool is crystal blue. once the taylor kit comes in this week and confirms that i have High salt level, do i need to drain?
 
Poolmath at the top of this page is your best friend. Your pool water probably have at least 500-1000 ppm of salt from using liquid chlorine. So you have to take that into account. Assuming the 13k gals is correct, 8 bags of 40lbs salt should suffice. If you overshoot, partial drain is the only way out.

My 3 month old fresh filled has approx 600 ppm of salt from using bleach since. Yesterday, I dumped 10 bags of 40 lbs salt and dropped the robot to mix. Today, my water temp is out of the woods at 65 F, salinity is 3000 ppm. K1766 test confirmed salt level is at 3000 ppm and therefore, our SWCG is once again back in business.

From my understanding, chlorine has no effect on salinity level. Others can chime in and I stand to be corrected.
 
So adding salt during SLAM? Seems you are taking two steps in parallel that really should be done serially to avoid confusion.
SLAM first and when that is complete add the necessary salt (SWG off) as your FC drops to normal FC/CYA levels. Then measure salt level with you new kit, adjust as needed, and turn on SWG and begin dialing it in.

A drain is the only way to drop the salt level other than wait for splash out or overflow to dilute the salinity.

Please note we recommend you not run your SWG for at least 24 hours after adding salt. The potential for high salinity levels can lead to premature failure of the salt cell.
 
What does the owner's manual say about high salt? My Pentair IC40 gives a high salt warning but continues to produce chlorine. I operated a summer with salt above 5000ppm with no issues because I wasn't aware of the temperature impact on salinity readings of the cell. If they say it will produce chlorine in high salt condition then I'd just leave it alone. If it won't then you'll need to drain some water to dilute the salinity.
 
pooldv said:
What does the owner's manual say about high salt? My Pentair IC40 gives a high salt warning but continues to produce chlorine. I operated a summer with salt above 5000ppm with no issues because I wasn't aware of the temperature impact on salinity readings of the cell. If they say it will produce chlorine in high salt condition then I'd just leave it alone. If it won't then you'll need to drain some water to dilute the salinity.
Click to expand...
It Doesn't really say anything. Just keep it between 3000 and 4000.
Today it's reading 4500 on the machine. I'll keep you posted when I get everything ready
 
I Drained the pool about halfway this weekend and got the ppm to 3500 after refilling and balancing. SWG works great FC was at 5.5 at 75% power. I didn't add any bleach. I dropped it to 45% today.

I don't know about you guys but I have a bit of anxiety giving my bleach control to the SWG.

Thanks for the help folks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply